hooziewhatsit

Sounds like you're missing the vacuum line to the heater controls. Very common problem. Under the hood on the passenger side should be a clear-ish vacuum cannister with two vacuum lines going to it. One goes along the firewall then into the cab, and the other goes to the intake manifold. Most likely this line has come undone. Just find it and reconnect it/test if for a vacuum. If that line is still there it could be that the vacuum cannister is broken, or there is a leak in the vacuum lines somewhere. I had the guys at 'iffy-lube' knock this vacuum line off a few years ago... took a little looking but got it reconnected eventually.

probably referring to this post by wasteland? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=62260&postcount=8 I may get to go through this with a friend if we can replace a lost title for a california car

:-P my parents live in welches. If was back at home I would go along for sure

there's probably a vent tube or line somewhere that is plugged. I recall reading about someone with a new-gen car having a similar problem, and solved it by finding the plugged line. I don't know where a good diagram of the hoses for that car would be.

I had to clean out the heater ducts on an 85 EA82 twagon several months ago. As part of this job I also cleaned out the heater core box. On the EA82s, it is right in the middle. About the easiest way to get to it is to take out the dash completely It can be done, and put back together correctly, just plan on taking a few days to do it. good luck

do any of the strips work? If not, first thing to check is to make sure you have 12v on one side, and ground on the other. On one of my cars the ground wire had gotten hot and disconnected itself inside the hatch. I've heard this is a common problem. A quick repair and it was good to go. To repair individual strips, you'll have to get a repair kit from an auto store. To find the break, it's easiest to put some aluminum foil on a DMM lead and run it down the length of the strip. Wherever it changes voltage from either 12v or 0v (depending which way you go) is where the break is. I believe there is also a relay under the dash somewhere that could be a suspect good luck

you should also be able to connect the green test connectors, turn the key to on, and the fuel pump should cycle on-off every second or two. There should also be a relay/solenoid under the hood that clicks on & off also. If you don't have voltage at the pump after doing that test, then you can continue to check the Fuel Pump Control unit & wiring. good luck

quick check would be for the vacuum line going from the intake manifold to a vacuum canister, and from there it will go across the back of the engine bay, then through the firewall to the heater controls. If that tests fine, sounds like you get to pull the dash apart to re-arrange hoses behind the heater controls

http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm

just cut and splice your connector on to whichever O2 sensor is cheaper. I had to do the same thing on the bosch universal I got a few months ago.

I've noticed around here there are a lot less soobs for sale in the past couple months than there usually are. I check the local nickel, the medford nickel, and some local online want ads. The local nickel hasn't listed an old-gen car in a couple months, and most of the old-gens in the medford nickel are insanely high price wise. It seems people have discovered them and are hanging onto them.

*select all, copy, save* Thanks for the huge list. I'm sure it will be very helpful someday.

Since I had an extra head & cam tower lying around, I did some checking to see if it would be possible to re-torque the HGs without removing the cam tower... I think all it would take is a shortened 17mm socket, and you should be able to get to all of the bolts on both sides. That being said, I was lazy and didn't bother retorquing the HGs I just did a couple months ago

yup, sounds right

pretty much set it somewhere, then test it A couple weeks ago I had to adjust the hillholder on a friends car. IIRC righty-tighty = higher clutch release point, lefty-loosey = lower clutch release point. Just make sure that you press the brake hard while you have the clutch in, otherwise it may not 'hold' properly. Then just slowly let the clutch out paying attention to where it releases. Adjust as necessary

I'm caravaning with 5-6 other people to deliver some trucks/vans from the company my wife works for to the wildland firefighters that just flew out there today. I'm going to try to get a day or two free once we're there before we fly back. Would like to see the atlantic ocean and any other cool stuff while we're there, and maybe get together with anyone back there? We're aiming to leave here around 6:00am sunday morning (oct. 8th) and get there 4 days later (wednesday-ish). We'll hopefully have a little time to sightsee on the way, so any suggestions of places to go are welcome. we're tentativly going to follow this route: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=%2297603%22+to+%22atlanta,+georgia%22&hl=en

I got to go through this during a road trip to canada also for a rough calculation, take the kph, divide by 10, and multiply by 6 so, 100kph / 10 = 10kph * 6 = 60 mph After a little while you get good at it...

IIRC, on my 85 GL t-wagon (not gl-10) it was somewhere right around the glove compartment. I want to say it was either right above or to the right of it.

I've also heard it recommended to have the engine warm, remove all the plugs, and block the throttle plate open to get the best results.

also, when you finally go to put the cam tower onto the head, make sure that the key on the end of the camshaft is straight up. This will allow the cam tower to fully seat on the head firmly holding all the rockers at the same time. If the key is not straight up, the cam tower will rest on rocker somewhere and be a PITA to get on without the rockers falling off. Ask how I know...

does it do it every time you start up? Just when it's cold? about the stereo/subs, couldn't you turn the stereo/subs off, then the next time you start the car they should be off and not pulling anything? I wouldn't think that they would pull enough current to cause the alternator to do that. Sounds like you could use a new one :-/

my vents always use to change from defrost to bilev if I hit the gas hard or went up any hill. I got a new vacuum canister from the junkyard and haven't had any problems since. Makes it a lot easier to defrost the windshield going up hills now :cool:

also clean the battery terminals first. That usually does it for me when my car stops starting. After that you can worry about rebuilding the starter.

The diff should have a sticker on it either saying 'LSD' in big letters and a gear ratio, or just the gear ratio. Another way if you have the rear of the car off the ground is to spin one tire. If the tire on the other spins the same way, you have an LSD. If the other tire spins the opposite way, it's an open-differential. If it's anything like my cars, you'll have to clear a bunch of crud to read the sticker edit: got beat to it

just because they have power don't mean they're working correctly. Also, just because they're new/different doesn't mean they're good. Do you have pulses at the neg side of the coil?