hooziewhatsit

I had a car where the wire harness to the front turn signal was broken (I think by a rodent) just inside the fender. I'd start by tracing the wires as far as you can from the signal to the main wiring harness.

IIRC, it has something to do with the illumination level of the dash lights.

I just noticed my 88 GL is doing the same thing. It only does it on one off ramp that's about a 290* right turn, and only right at the end. I suspect it has something to do with the PCV system. I still haven't had time to check my PCV valve to make sure it isn't clogged. *subscribe*

actually, in EA82 cars the only filter should be in the engine bay on the driver side strut tower, I think. I usually put a rag all around the hose as I pull it off. The other alternative is to find the fuel pump under the passenger side rear, right in front of the tire. Unplug the pump there then start the car. It will only run for a little bit, but that will relieve the pressure in the system.

for the distributor, put the crank at top dead center, 0*, by the marks on the flywheel. You want the passenger side cam to be pointing north west, and the driver side cam to be pointing South East. Now, align some marks on the distributor up, then install it pointing to the #1 plug. This is all from part 1 of the service manual on page 166 from the finleyweb website.

I had luck using 90w oil and having the engine on a slight angle to help keep the rockers in place. This was with the engine out of the car though :-) With that thought though... depending on how the car is on the ground, (jackstands or not), you should be able to jack up one side of the car slightly. That *should* give enough angle to make it easier to keep the rockers in place.

out of morbid curiosity... are you sure each cylinder is firing? After I tested the injectors on my 85 twagon, I managed to make two of the plugs look connected, but not be. This made the engine shake like crazy at idle. However, it still revved up fine until I tried to drive, then it was a turd. easiest way is to carefully pull each plug wire off the disty while it's running. If the idle changes, that cylinder is firing. If the idle doesn't change at all, there's something wrong with that cylinder causing it to not fire. anywho, just a random thought I had

bad enough when the tank gets low the car stutters and bucks like crazy. The fuel pump also humms really loudly. Since I've already replaced the pump to no fix, I plan to drop the tank when I convert to a 5spd and clean it out. But like I mentioned above, if it's mostly full of gas, and it's been garaged, it should be in pretty good shape.

see how much gas was in it while it sat there. Hopefully it was close to a full tank. This helps prevent condensation and rust from forming inside the tank. My 85 twagon sat for 6-8 years with maybe 5 gallons in the tank. It now has rust in the tank

I just got this part from the dealer. It's listed in their computers as an 'o-ring' (I know, very original I can get you the subaru part number tonight when I get back home.

you can get them at crutchfield online for about $15 IIRC. Just do a lookup with your car, and it should be under accessories or similar.

yea, that's how you want to do it. You can mess up the TC if you bolt it the flexplate, then put it on the transmission. I just did HGs on an EA82, and they weren't too hard. Hardest part was getting the old gasket material off. Search for my recent thread for some tips. good luck

wow dude, that sucks... John & I were already thinking about stopping by tomorrow (I'm in Sisters right now) to see if you wanted to part with that rear diff & driveline. If you have the tools, we can help dig some of the ditch. Anything to help a friend, right? anyways, let me know here, or just reply to my PM. -Dave

Take a can of carb cleaner, or similar, and carefully spray it around any hoses/intake manifold while the car is running. If the idle speed changes at all, it's likely there is a leak near your last 'spray.' You can then try to narrow down where the leak is from there. good luck

and while the 20 people who viewed this thread are checking their hoses, make sure you check the small hose going to the resevoir. The hose on this car was about 95% blocked, possibly contributing to this blowout. Don't want your significant other (or yourself) to get stuck somewhere because of a blown hose.

from the online FSM: 1 - with adjuster set in vertical position, push adjuster pivot quick and hard by hand. If pivot is depressed more than 0.020in, put adjuster in a container filled with light oil, and move plunger up and down until the depression is less than 0.020in 2 - If pivot is depressed more than 0.020in even after repeating the above procedure, replace adjuster. page 165 of EA82 service manual part 1 from the flinleyweb website - I'll find the link in a minute. edit: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 they later say to insert the lifters into the head in their original position, which I hope doesn't make a difference, since I didn't mark them when I took my current engine apart.

hehehe, that's good to know. I was only thinking about doing it on the cam towers and valve covers to get the crud off. Should have also said something more like splashing the bits around in the gas to get the crud off. Thanks for the other tips also. I'm hoping to get it pretty much fully assembled tomorrow. I need to go to town anyways for another radiator hose (see my other thread), so I'll get this copper spray stuff while I'm at it. Thanks again -Dave

Just a friendly reminder to get out there and check/replace all your hoses happened to the wife in our 91 loyale on her way home from work. Since she was only about a mile from home, she ignored the loud clattering from the car and the red on the temp gauge Anywho, I'll check on it some more tomorrow to see if any damage was done

well, finally got them clean enough I think. A combination of razor blade/knife to wear down the tall points, then a green scour pad seemed to pretty well smooth it all out. Thanks for the ideas guys. now I just need to find a way to keep everything clean while I put it back together... I'm thinking a 5 gallon bucket with some gas should knock all the tiny dirt crud off all the cam towers, valve covers, etc, before they get re-installed, as well as get most of the oil off the outside. This SPFI engine blew a headgasket on cylinder 3, for those keeping track of HG failures. any ideas would be welcome as I hijack my own thread :-)

How do you guys get rid of the left over gasket material on the heads/block? How clean does it need to be? shiny clean, or just smooth to the touch? I've tried a razor blade... kinda works, leaves scratches in the aluminum if I'm not carefull. Tried carb cleaner + rag, didn't really do much. Tried some sandpaper; don't like how it scuffs up the metal. btw, I'm doing all this on a junk engine I have lying around. I want to find something that works before I go to town on the good engine. I read through the forums, and only found 'remove old gaskets + material, make sure they're CLEAN, then reinstall' Nowhere did I find how exactly to clean them. I figure this is the engines payback for having everything else come apart easily. also, while I have a thread started, how do you remove BAD carbon deposits from the valves? just chisel on them? Thanks, -Dave

I'm in klamath falls, which is in south-central oregon. Can pretty much go anywhere if needed, including northern california (I'm about half an hour from the border) 541-Eight five zero, three eight four one -Dave

Once you 'forcefully massage' them out (I've had to do it a couple times), you can break the metal insert thingies loose, then just stick them back in their appropriate holes. Assuming you don't tighten them like they were before, they should work just fine. If you have any glue lying around it wouldn't hurt to use a little bit also.

I believe you can connect both the white and green connectors and go for a drive. This should force the ECU it to check everything. If the CEL starts blinking, there are no codes. If it comes on solid, stop and look at the LED to get the codes. btw, this is the procedure you follow to clear the codes as well. Just repeat until you don't read anymore. Also, 5 or 7 short pulses mean an all clear condition. I don't recall right now if 5 flashes are for a manual tranny or auto. good luck

The first replacement fuel pump that got it running was from a turbo car. This pump is now humming/vibrating like crazy. The pump I just put in it is from an SPFI wagon. This pump has hummed a couple times. I've read the pumps are the same between SPFI/MPFI?? Also just remembered/realized that I'm going to eventually do a 5spd swap on this car, so the tank will be exposed and *easy* to remove and clean. Qman, thanks for the confirmation that there isn't a drain plug.

when I had my digi-dash apart, I found the optical sensor they use for the speed signal. There is a small disk with a lot of tiny slots in the outer edge driven by the speedo cable. An opto-isolator 'shoots' through the gaps and creates pulses for the gauge.