hooziewhatsit

have you checked the neg side of the coil to see if you're getting pulses from the distributer? It's easiest to check this while cranking the engine over by hand, not with the starter. If it doesn't, it points to either a bad disty, bad ECU, or a open in the wiring harness somewhere. page 53 of that pdf shows one pin from the coil transistor going to +12 through fuse 11, and the other pin goes to the ECU.

only thing I could suggest is to follow the troubleshooting guide from the EA82 Part 2 manual, on (or around) page 53 of the pdf http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

did you spin the engine over one revolution by hand after you put the driver side belt on? So, when it was all done, with the flywheel at the 3 marks, the two cams are 180* apart from each other?

I've seen around 5-10mA for the clock. You should be able to pull the clock fuse and have NO current at all flowing.

how do you know the short is in the clock? best way to troubleshoot this is to get either an ammeter or a test light. Disconnect one of the battery terminals and put the ammeter/test light in series between the battery & battery cable. Start pulling fuses one by one until the current drops to nothing. That will narrow it down to (hopefully) one circuit.

IIRC, I thought that 35 was the purge control solenoid, and code 34 was the EGR solenoid?

did you push the pistons in, or screw them in? edit, does the '78 even have screw in pistons?

also make sure the 'key' on the cam is pointing straight up. That puts it in a position where none of the valves are pushed in, making it much easier to slip the cam tower on and not knock the rockers off. edit: also makes it easier when you go to put the timing belts back on since it will already be where it needs to be.

I got some good ideas here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40245&highlight=head+clean if I had to do it again... probably use a pocket knife (rounded tip) to carefully scrape the high points of the gasket material off. Then I would use 800ish grit sandpaper with WD-40 on a plate of glass (or similar flat object) and use round motions(wax on/wax off ) to wear the gasket material off. good luck

there should be 5 bolts holding it on.

Just off the scale... 3.9 rear diff, with fluid (I think) was 50lbs the driveline was 19lbs I don't have any of the other parts lying around, so I can't help ya there.

I believe EA82 part 2 has some wiring diagrams towards the end of it, as well as general electrical troubleshooting. These scans only cover the engine/tranny, and nothing for the body (IIRC) I've noticed a couple little differences between the different years in my cars, but nothing drastic enough to render the manual useless.

http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 has some scanned copies from an FSM. Even though they say they're for a different car, most of the stuff is interchangeable.

what does the ATF look like? smell like? when was the last time it was changed?

I don't really know about the technical parts of this project, but I figured a link to a picture of a d/r tranny couldn't hurt http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=308749&postcount=5

a few weeks ago I posted SOA part numbers for most of the pertinant seals you'd need to reseal an engine. I say 'pertinant' since I didn't include the timing belt gaskets, etc, just the main seals. It was a fair amount cheaper than buying the entire gasket kit. I'll see if I can dig it up... edit: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41172

are you sure that's not 73, code for 'Ignition Pulse System' ? (I have no idea what this means, it just shows up in the ECU guide) IIRC, I thought the car ID flashes were all short.

The camshaft sprockets have a small hole in it near the outside edge. They should also have a key on them so they can only be installed one way onto the camshaft itself. You shouldn't need to find TDC unless you took the distributor out? There is a different procedure you need to follow to re-install the timing belts though. A search should find that guide, and if not, I'm sure someone else can post it here.

My car used to be pretty bad for that shift also; almost had to come to a stop. The new fluid helped a lot. The car I need to change the fluid on grinds a bit on that shift if I'm not carefull.

these were all without re-torqueing the headgaskets?

redline 75w90NS worked wonders on my transmission. I was having trouble shifting; especially when it was cold, and on downshifts to 3rd. I have a car I'm working on for a friend I'm thinking about trying risolene in, then maybe the redline if it doesn't get better (start cheap). However, now that I've almost perfected double-clutching, downshifts to 3rd are smooth as butter

vice grips used very carefully to avoid stripping them more?

I'm now to the point myself where I need to re-torque the OEM HGs I replaced. That's a good tip about leaving all the sealant off the cam tower the first time around. I'll be sure to do that next time. I checked on a set of EA82T heads/cams that I have, and there are only three head bolts that a standard 17mm socket will have trouble reaching (one on pass. side, 2 on driver side). In my case, if I grind maybe 1/8" length off the socket, it should fit in just fine. This would allow me to keep from removing the cam towers & all supporting stuff (tbelts, covers, etc). *sigh* not looking forward to this job, lol

it sounds like your speedometer cable is broken between the transmission & the instrument cluster. This will give a CEL roughly a minute after you start moving. Ask me how I know

IIRC, if you're stopped and want them off, just put the e-brake on. I know they work like this with other car manufacturers.