hooziewhatsit

hey pyro, I do recall you just doing them on your car, I just didn't figure I'd be doing some myself so soon I kinda figured I should just take the time to take them out and inspect them. The car has 259K miles on it. I have receipts from the last 100k, and it doesn't include any rear wheel bearings, so, for all I know, they're original. At $50 a side for both bearings and the seal, I can't really go wrong with just replacing them. In your opinion, are they easier to do with the rear arm still in the car, or loose? thanks, -Dave

This is on an '87 wagon, SPFI, 5spd, yadda yadda, not my daily driver, so no rush to get it fixed. Just got this car for a friend and have the rear drums off to check the brakes. Start pulling on the axle stub, and what the heck? The tip moves almost 3/16"s up-down/left-right as well as in/out. All of the other wheels are fine - no movement at all. finally get the rear axle out, start taking off of the control arm bolts, when I notice if I push an inner ring 'thingy' back into the hub, the up/down movement stops, but the in/out slop is still there. I checked the other side, and it doesn't move at all, although the axle is still on that side. When I put the outer hub back on it, all movement stopped. So, my question is, are these bearing toast? maybe toast? replace them while it's easy? don't worry about it? This is for a friend who wants a reliable replacement for a Hyundai she used to have. second question: How the heck do you guys get the rear axle out so easily? I had to undo the top of the strut, then push down on the hub to get enough slack to barely get one end off? My mechanic from a few years ago said I would have to drop the rear diff to get them off. thanks, -Dave

yea, I believe you can do it that way. The important thing is to get them pointing directly up (doesn't help if the car is on a slanted driveway, like mine )

thanks miles, with the USRM down, I didn't know where to find it.

relax, these engines are non-interferance, so you can't break valves by doing the timing belts wrong To save from typing it again, here's the procedure to replace the belts. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=308921&postcount=2 sounds like you used the TDC mark on the flywheel instead of the three dashes - a common mistake. good luck

IIRC to clear the codes, connect the green & white, then go for a drive. If the CEL flashes, you're all clear. disconnect them at your next convenience. If it comes on solid, look for a new code for something that's wrong. Although disconnecting the battery should also work. I also believe the 7 short flashes is like an 'all clear' type of thing.

I'm not sure about the new gen cars, but I know the old gen's are very picky if you don't tighten down the axle nut properly (old gen: 145ish ft/lbs) That could cause your horrific grinding noise.

LMAO, I'm not sure what's better.. that car, or the mazda pickup in town here. Roof of the cab has been removed, and it has an equally, uhh, impressive paint job. I have a pic somewhere I think...

something like this is what I have in my car. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fz77SEpRjwP/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=003SBK930 I still have plenty of room between the shifter in 1st, 3rd, and 5th and the stereo face.

is it kind of like the car is hiccuping? cruising along, hit the gas, then it stumbles? if so, my 85 t-wagon is doing the same thing... and it definitely gets worse near the bottom of the tank. I also suspected fuel pump issues, since I can easily hear it rumbling inside. *subscribe*

Do you have spark? how did you check the timing belts? They commonly strip teeth, so they'll look fine through the tiny holes, but won't work. Pop the disty cap off and crank the engine over and see if the rotor spins. If it does not spin, it's a timing belt. If it does spin, we'll have to look elsewhere.

I would hope not :-) it looks like with 10 bars lit, the temperature is 257*F. Below that is 50*F per segment. So 4-6 bars would be roughly 150*F-185*F or so.

Alrighty, this is any easy job to mess up the first time if you haven't done it before. Just don't let them tell you the valves are screwed now, since they aren't. This used to be in the USRM, but has been removed for security reasons for the time being. Line up the three marks on the flywheel with the arrow thing on top of the bellhouse. Note that these marks are not the degree markings for timing it. Move the driver side cam so the dot is aligned to 12:00 (straight up). Should be a dot or something similar on the timing belt cover. Install the driver side belt. Crank the engine over ONCE by hand and align the three marks on the flywheel again. The driver side cam dot will now be at 6:00 (straight down) Align the passenger side cam dot to 12:00 (straight up) Install the passenger side belt. Crank the engine over by hand a couple times and recheck the cams vs. the flywheel. Each cam should be 180* from each other. I believe that the belts need to be torqued down to ensure they don't jump a tooth. Do this by putting a spanner wrench on the cam, and appling a little torque in the direction to put slack on the tensioners. This should make sense when you're in there. Tighten down the tensioners and you're good to go. The most common mistake in this process I believe is installing both belts without turning the engine over once inbetween the belts. good luck.

nope; at least that's what I've read. After looking at my system, it looks like you can just unbolt the compressor and move it, since there is enough flex in the tubes to move the compressor to where the battery is.

what two cylinders had no compression? If it was the passenger side (1 & 3), it could be the timing belt snapped/stripped some teeth. That would cause it to shake like crazy and not have any power. Not sure about the grinding sound though. I would think it would be worth checking that at least before it gets condemmed to the JY. good luck

Do you think the head/camshaft is messed up because you messed up on doing the timing belts? If so, there's a chance they're fine. These motors are non-interferance so you just need to do the belts again. There is a guide in the USRM above. Thing to make sure to do is turn the engine over once after getting the driver side belt on, so the dots on the cams are 180* from each other. Thank you for your service as well.

does it only ping when you start it when the car is cold? ie, after warming the car up, shutting it off, then starting again shortly thereafter, does it ping? If so, it would seem to point to the coolant temp sensor to my feeble mind. It wouldn't hurt to clean the contacts if nothing else.

muy impressivo I thought I was doing pretty good with a turbo long block, and a 2WD & 4WD 3AT behind the backseat in my GL.

from the classifieds, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26603 It says EA82 style clocks there, but I believe the basic problem is the same.

Get the codes from the ECU using the guide here and report back. That'll give us a start to diagnose what's going on. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 The stock oil pressure gauge isn't that accurate. I think that if you're having major oil pressure problems, you'll hear the lifters start ticking like crazy, and other noises from under the hood.

there's a link at the very bottom of the ECU codes page, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 basically, connect everything, go for a drive, if the CEL flashes, you're good. If it comes on solid, there's still a problem.

did you crank the engine over and verify that the rotor spins? when my tbelt broke, it just stripped some teeth off the belt. When I got the covers off, the belts looked intact, but only once I got the front main cover off did I see the teeth lying in the bottom of the cover. good luck

IIRC, shouldn't the car not run very long with the MAF unplugged? after a similar thread a while ago I went out and unplugged mine. It would run for a few seconds then die. wouldn't this pretty much point to a problem with the MAF?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24997&highlight=throttle+position+sensor a couple posts down Garner posts a link to the FSM outlining how to test the TPS

what does the ground look like for the O2 sensor? (resistance from negative cable un-hooked to exhaust) A bad ground there could account for the funky O2 reading un-installed vs. installed. Oh yea, when you measured the O2 voltage with it not in the exhaust, what did you do for the ground then?