hooziewhatsit

Correct, I put a plate in place of my EGR valve for almost a year and did not notice any side effects. Just make sure you plug the vacuum line going into the intake though. Unfortunetly, I don't have any extra EGR solenoids lying around right now. I do have a couple purge control solenoids though. Edit: Do you mean the electrical solenoid, or the vacuum operated valve?

For an aerial pic? Nada It flies via a joystick on a pc with live video from the forward looking camera. If it's ready by then and we're not busy elsewhere, I can most likely make it to the show.

cost? I could probably call it a 'test flight' and not worry about it :cool: hopefully if there are fires, they're well away from property and general civilization.

I just recently had to pull a 3AT out of my new 85 turbo wagon. When I pulled the tranny, even with the TC unbolted from the flexplate, it DID NOT want to come off. After enough hammering and prying it finally came off. To put it back on, I spun it around and around and lifted up on it, (and never heard any clicks). It eventually went 'home' all the way in. I tied it in place, put the tranny back up, cut the rope, and bolted it all together. Just drove it today for the first time since '99

the computer is the box with the flashing light under the steering column. If you do replace them, make sure it's bolted back in - apparently if it isn't grounded it will fry. For the CEL, you can take the front of the dash off and unplug the harness going to it, or take that bulb out. Either way involves taking the front of the dash off (not hard). I may trace the wires back to the ECU next week when I get back home.

have you checked the connections under the hood on the passenger side at the vacuum canister? It's a clearish looking thing the size of a soup can. Should have two small vacuum lines coming out of it. If one line from it does not go to the intake manifold, you won't have any vacuum and it won't move the vents around. Other than that, you check it for leaks etc, or just replace it. Mine would change from defrost to bi-lev under load, and a new canister fixed it. good luck. ps, somewhere there's a document on troubleshooting this system (mainly the 4WD selector for the pushbutton 4wd cars, but I can't find it)

you might be able to stick a 33ohm resistor in the plug. I can test that theory tonight when the car with a working EGR circuit gets back. you can get the resistor at radio shack for cheap.

and, http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 has a bunch of manuals on it.

My wife switches between our 88 GL d/r 5spd and 91 loyale s/r 5spd for her 20 mileish trip to work every day. Twice a week it gets another 27 mile one way trip to play with the horses. This last month they've made routine weekend trips of 150+ miles. The only times in the last 6 years my car (88 GL) has stranded me were due to a timing belt breaking, and the screw holding the rotor in falling out (multiple times even ), both of which with correct mantainance could be prevented. beyond that, I've just done the routine mantainance on them and they get 30mpg all day long.

lol, wonder where I read that then. The company has to do with wildfires, so, if I'm at a fire, I can't come. If I'm not at a fire, I can come. OTOH, if you request aerial photography/pictures, I can call it a business trip and be there for sure

don't get me started on EGR CEL issues... the solenoid itself should be fine. My car (88 GL) likes to throw the code no matter what I do*. lol, if I unplug the solenoid, then start it, the CEL goes OFF for a while then comes back on. eventually when it warms up here I need to trace all the wires back to the ECU and see what I find. another thing you can try if you just want the light to go off... tape a 33ohm resistor into the plug instead of the EGR solenoid. In theory all the ECU sees with either that or the real solenoid is a 33ohm resistance *hook up correctly, clear codes according to the FSM, it still comes back on.

if you feel ambitious and want to try and fix it yourself (cheaper), here's a post with a link to .doc that shows the insides and what would likely need to be replaced. disclaimer* This shows an old gen starter, but I would presume they're all about the same anyway. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=19281&postcount=91

here's a link to a post with another link to .doc file. It shows you what is inside the starter that eventually wears out. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=19281&postcount=91

did you see my post about checking for melted plugs under the dash? I'd check that, then I'd pull the starter out and check the contacts. A while ago my started started acting up on me also. I took it out, check the contacts (they were fine), shrugged, put it back together, and it's worked since. I also cleaned all the cables before I did that, which didn't make a difference. good luck

FWIW, I did some tests with the solenoids I have (EGR & PCS) and they are IDENTICAL. The only difference is the connector on it. Also, the vent thing that acts like it can unscrew; it appears to have been snapped on, so it doesn't matter how it's turned or how much - it doesn't effect anything on it.

I thought there was an attendance cap at 200ish? if there isn't, then ignore my question(s) :-) I'm not sure right now what is going to be happening with work around that time. (the joys of starting your own business)

is there any way we can get a running total of how many people have registered? I'd like to go, but I'm not 100% sure yet.

4th page bump anyone? Doesn't really matter anymore since it's all put back together and I don't plan on taking it apart again, but I would like to know if it was done correctly thanks

IIRC, there is a semi-common problem where the plug under the dash for the ignition circuit overheats and melts, causing problems. I'd take a quick look around for anything obvious, and hopefully someone else more knowledgable can chime in.

it isn't too hard to take the back plate off the starter and look at the contacts. You can probably find good contacts at the junkyard, or just buy them new, they shouldn't be too much. although, if it always starts when you jump it, it could be a problem with the ignition circuit. (I don't really know how to troubleshoot this though :-))

the crank pulley should be a 22mm on the EGR tube, do you mean the two 12mm bolts holding the valve to the manifold, or?

I've heard fluke has a policy where no matter how you break the meter, they'll repair/replace it, even if you aren't the first owner. Might want to try contacting them about it. I bought a Fluke 87III off ebay a while ago. I was (am?) an hardware engineer, so I need a good one :-)

Just played with it again for a little while. I can make it so the torque converter is all the way on the transmission. When I pull it back out though the second rod is still out. Is it fine to install and start driving with it like this? I don't want to screw it up and have to pull the tranny again. thanks -Dave

Alright, Just pulled the tranny on my new 85 turbo wagon (GL) to replace the input seal on it. the three shafts in the tranny, do they all need to be far enough in to where you can only see the splines? (as opposed to seeing the smooth metal at all). The little rod is flush with the second one. The second one shows about half an inch of smooth metal. I've spun it around many times hoping it would fit like the other, but it hasn't gone in. Will this hurt anything if it's left? Thanks a bunch in advance, -Dave --------------______ _ _ _ _ -------|||||||_ _ _ _-------|||||||_ _ _ _------------|||||||_ _ _ _----- -------______ _ _ _ _ -------------- (if that makes any sense :-))

Correct, on my 88 GL SPFI, I have the two green, two white, a black one, and a brown one I think. To read stored codes, you need to connect the white ones. I've never known what the other two (brown & black) connectors are used for, and have never used them. This is normal.