hooziewhatsit

Does this car even have a drain plug? It's an '85 EA82 turbo wagon Before I got the car, it sat for 6-8 years with 2/10 ticks of gas on the digi-gauge. When I first filled it up, I had to take out the fuel gauge sender and knock a LOT of rust off it to let it move & work. I also replaced the fuel pump with a junkyard one to get it running. Since I replaced the pump, it has made a loud humming noise very noticeable inside the car. Big problem right now... when the tank gets lower (not always though), if I hit the gas, it will hiccup, very badly at times. It's bad enough I don't let the wife drive it at all. I just replaced the fuel pump with one out of an 87 wagon, and it hums very sporadically at the moment. I also took the fuel filter off and dumped the RUST COLORED gas out of it. I also ran the pump for a little while just emptying into a can, and it eventually turned to clear gas; although I fear there is still a lot of crud left in the tank. Whew... long winded history for the following questions... - Is there a drain plug on this tank? Just because I didn't see one doesn't mean it isn't there. Doing some searches I only found reference to EA81 drain plugs. I already found instructions to remove the tank, which I could do if I had to. - Is it feasible to remove the tank, then add a drain plug? I realize I could just keep changing the filter and not run the tank low, but that would treating the sympton, and not the cause btw, this car is not by daily driver, so I can take my time working on it. Thanks in advance, -Dave

my 85 EA82T wagon had this switch, but I don't think my other two spfi cars have it.

toothpaste & some elbow grease worked pretty well on my dads '92 legacy.

a trick to help remove the IAC I've found.... Use a set of vice grips to break loose the 4 screws, since there's no way to get a screwdriver on them. After that you should be able to unscrew them with your fingers.

cruise control vacuum pump maybe??

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31328&highlight=hood+latch+cable+broke Hope this works for you

what program are you using to do this? Have you tried this one? http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html I've done quite a few with it, and it's EASY. I think you can even open multiple panoramas, and it will put the correct ones together. sounds like wcss7 was a lot fun.. sucks I had to miss it ohwell, always next year

only thing I can come up with is... you're sitting there in neutral, and something big comes up fast behind you, not able to stop. If you're in gear, you can hopefully punch it and get out of there (provided the intersection is clear). If you're not in gear, you'll probably get crunched. This is also probably why you're supposed to park far enough behind the car infront of you to see their tires - so you have room to move around them if needed without backing up.

On the door handle, there should be some little square thingies that can pried out. Behind these are some long phillips head screws. Remove them and the door handle will come off. The plastic piece around the door lock/un-latch handle needs to be removed as well. I usually start prying carefully from the end of the latch that pivots. After that just kinda mess with it to get the rest of the way out. Once those are off, you can unsnap the door panel from the door. Starting on the bottom, the manual says to use a putty knife or similar to slowly pop the door panel out. It has these 'snaps' to the door all the way around, except for along the top. Once all the snaps are undone, lift straight up and it will come off the top part of the door along the window. now the procedure is clear as mud, you should have no trouble

something to check during a test drive if you ever plan on using the cruise control.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27345&highlight=legacy+cruise+control I would be curious to know if they still have this problem, and/or what they say about it on the test drive.

how old is the fluid/filter, and what does the fluid look/smell like? ATs are usually very picky to the quantity/quality of ATF in them. My 3AT does really weird things when its fluid gets bad.

The easiest way to get to the back of the CEL light is to remove the driver side dash :-/ 2 screws right above the instrument cluster, usually 2 screws on the bottom edge - one goes up into the rear wiper switch, other screw is in same place on other side the steering wheel. Remove the 'OFF' and "defrost' buttons, and remove those two screws. After that, it should snap out with some force. The connectors you're looking for are not inside the car. They are under the hood by the wiper motor/brake master cylinder. I would have found that article confusing as well.

One thing to check... go for a drive, then *carefully* feel around on the radiator while the engine is off. You're looking for cool/cold spots. If there are any, they will probably be near the bottom/center of the rad. This is indicative of a clogged radiator, for which the best solution is often a new one.

sounds like your alternator is dying. What does the voltage gauge show? Better yet, do you have a multimeter you can use to test the voltage the alternator is putting out? With the car running, there should be about 14.5v at the battery. With the car off, the batter should read about 12.5-13v. First thing to do is check/clean all the major wires under the hood. This includes the ground wires from the block to the frame, and the battery cables.

I'd lean more towards the 15.9 gallon spec. In theory the light turns on when you have 2.5 gallons left. I've gotten gas after the light goes on, and it took about 13 gallons, which is about right. Best way to know for sure though is to get a gas can, and drive until you run out. Just aim to not run out in town.

wow, that site has a convoluted waying of saying some stuff wrong :-) basically, you want to connect the white single-pole connectors under the hood. They're on the drivers side near the wiper motor/brake master cylinder area. There should be a pair of green connectors right by them. After that, turn the key to on, and start counting flashes on the ECU. This is under the kickpanel on the drivers side. When I check codes I can usually pull the top lip of the kick panel down to see the LED, rather than take the panel off. To clear the codes, connect both white & green, and go for a drive. If the CEL flashes, there are no more codes. If it comes on steady, stop and look at the LED on the ECU for code(s). About the EGR code getting 'burned into' the ECU... I don't think it works like that.... however, I almost think thats what my 88 GL has done with that same code

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31328&highlight=hood+latch+cable+broke hopefully this works for you

I've had luck taking the rotor/hub off, leaving just the inner hub with the axle seal exposed. I found a big crescent wrench to set right by the seal and pry off of. Using a combination of screwing the castle nut farther on the spindle and a larger object to pry off of, I've gotten the axle far enough in I can pull it the rest of the way with the castle nut on the hub/rotor. Hope this helps

I've recently started using heel-toe shifting (I think that's what it's called) for downshifting. Since then, I've had much smoother downshifts. (for those that don't know, right foot on brake & gas. While braking, you rev the engine up to the new gear you're downshifting to. Then when you let the clutch out again, the clutch should grab without slipping since the engine speed is already where it should be. This prevents wear on the clutch, and change in speed while the engine catches up) It also seems to my feeble thinking, that if you downshift correctly, and don't burn the clutch, that the clutch will last a long time anyways. Another thought I've had about the people who say they can stop quicker with compression vs. brakes... The tires only have so much friction or grip on the road. If you overcome that amount with either compression or brakes, or a combination of both, the tires will lock up. Albeit it's probably harder to lock up the tires with solely compression than brakes.

for the front axles, Break the castle nut loose before you get the tire off take out the inner spring pins like told above - tap from the non-beveled side out. Remove the hub the tire bolts onto Undo the lower arm bolts - should be 14mm, IIRC, may need to undo the sway bar (?) with a 12mm wrench to get enough free play That should give you enough room to pull the entire steering knuckle away from the car, and slip the DOJ off the transmission. Remove the castle nut, then put it on backwards flush with the end of the axle. Find a piece of wood or similar, and pound the axle out. The wood is to make sure you don't mess up the threads, even though this axle is getting replaced. Get the new axle, and feed it through the knuckle. put the castle nut back on and start prying. Rather than prying off the bearing seal, I've had luck putting a large crescent wrench/piece of metal right next to the seal on the hub and prying off that. Using various sizes there, and adding washers to the axle, you should be able to pull it all the way through. Put the DOJ cup back on the transmission - It only goes on one way for the spring pin to properly fit back in it. Line it up before you get it on fully. Pound the spring pin back in from the beveled hole. Put the bolt back into the lower control arm, but don't tighten it yet put the hub & tire back on, as well as cone washer, flat washer (convex side OUT) and castle nut, & torque to 145ft-lbs Once the car is back on the ground, tighten the lower control arm/sway bar if you undid it. Re-check the castle nut a few times after driving to make sure everything gets set tight. * I looked for EdRach's procedure, but couldn't find it with the USRM down, so hopefully I didn't miss anything.

when I put my axle in, I found a big crescent wrench and put the handle on the hub, right above the seal, and pried on the castle nut against it. When it got far enough out I found other objects to set right by the seal to give me more prying room. good luck

have you tried a new switch for the window? I've heard of them gumming up and causing all sorts of trouble.

yup, they can still fail even if the boot isn't torn. Did you ever re-torque down the axle nut after you replaced the axle? That would be one thing to check before you get another axle. If they aren't torqued down hard (145ft/lbs IIRC) they can make all sorts of nasty noises. Barring a loose axle nut though, it looks like the axle is on its way out. Some members here have had rebuilt axles only last a few months.

it would probably be best to just replace it. Seems like it would be a lot safer than trying to fix it and fubar'ing something up good.

use this link to pull the codes from the ECU: http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.39782181.art Your seal problem sounds like it could be either the front main or the oil pump. Both of which are easy to get to if they already have the belts off to replace one of the cam seals