hooziewhatsit

LMAO, that's awesome

it could also be a stripped hub. Take the hubcap off, and see if the center castle nut spins. If this is the case, you'll only have to replace the hub (maybe the axle also, depends on how the splines look). a junkyard would be the best bet for a new cheap one.

yep, after you unbolt it, you can pull the rest of the fan off. Then either replace the fan, or just bolt the pulley back on.

my grandparents 05 has this problem also. They've complained to the local dealer, and have been told it's the normal operating characteristics. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27345&highlight=legacy+cruise+control+problem and http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10725&highlight=cruise+control+legacy if you pursue it with subaru I'd love to know how it turns out.

If you follow the big vacuum hose coming out of the driver side valve cover, it will lead to a 'T'. Follow the same diameter hose down out of the T to the intake manifold. There's a smaller hose leave the 'T' to the air intake tract. Remove the hose from the 'T' going to the intake manifold (not the intake tract) and slowly pour the seafoam in there - a funnel will probably help. This would be a good time to check/replace the PCV valve as well if it hasn't been done before.

is there a way to do that without removing the intake manifold? I just tried on my SPFI and it doesn't seem to want to come out. Is there a trick I don't know?

No, your 1.8 is a non-interferance engine. (at least my searching here says it is). That means the valves/pistons never overlap. All you have to do is replace the timing belt and you'll be good to go.

and yet when people talk about evolution it's alright, but when we talk about God, it's not alright :-\ How's that for tolerance? I just don't see how something as complex as our nervous system, or eyes, or sense of smell, etc, evolved from some 'primordial goop' (I also wouldn't mind continuing this in OT I don't see an issue discussing it as long as it doesn't turn into a flame war, but that could be just me)

are you sure you have both the TPS and throttle plate (?) adjusted correctly? Within this thread is a pdf that tells how to properly adjust both. My initial thought is that the throttle plate is misadjusted to close too much, causing the engine to not be able to get enough air = eating dashboard with a closed throttle. of course, I could be completely wrong though

Wave on the way by! Still not sure if I can go yet, but if I can, I may stay at my parents up on Mt. Hood, and make the final trip from there. However, if you want to stretch your legs on the way by... I have plenty of parking here :-)

try flipping the switch on top of the steering column. It's an 'oops' everyone has made at one point or another.

sounds like a broken fan resistor pack. Skip outlines where it is and how to test it here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=282650&postcount=9 good luck

I think I'd check the front cat first, since it seems like everything else has been done. I had a similar problem where the honeycomb came loose and tried (unsuccessfully) to squeeze out the exhaust. NO POWER whatsoever. Find a rubber hammer and gently tap on the front cat. If you hear rattling, then parts have broken off. It shouldn't take too much work to remove the front Y pipe and see if anything falls out. You could also start the car without the exhaust to see if the throttle response is any better. Just don't do it over anything flamable good luck

I'll have to talk to one of my friends... He's done a couple MS&EDIS jobs, plus, for his Junior & senior Project in college he made a system that reads all the OBD codes and displays the info in neat graphs, etc. I'm not sure if it read OBDI or II though. Either way, he might be able to work something out that would work for you guys. Edit: Just talked to him, and He thinks it wouldn't be too hard to make a system that interfaces to the MS system to get the tach, temps, O2, etc data, then package it up and simulate the car's ECU. He believes each brand of car talks a bit differently, but shouldn't be too hard to do. He's been thinking about doing something like this for a while now. He's going to do some more research and let me know what's up. He's also written a windows application that interfaces to a megajolt board (which I guess is related to MS) Here's a link to his Senior project board (if you're interested)http://www.cset.oit.edu/stuproj/view_project.aspx?id=9&class=202 however... as to the legality of a system like this.... :-\ I guess it would be like file-sharing programs - it's up to the end user.

I'm not quite sure if I can help, but I can at least reply :-) First off, the ticking under the hood when the key is turned to 'on' is because the two green connectors under the hood near the wiper motor/brake filler are connected. These are used in some diagnostic modes to do stuff. They should be disconnected normally. However, with these green's connected, the fuel pump should be pulsing with the ticking under the hood. If the pump isn't pulsing, there's a problem somewhere. Is there a particular reason you decided to re-wire the pump? I suppose you could be trying to pull too much current from the hot-lead you tapped into. Another thought... Are you sure you got the polarity correct on the pump wiring? I guess one cause could be that it's wired backwards to pump gas back into the tank, which would explain why the out line from the tank will leak, but the pump won't pump it out. I can check tomorrow what the polarity should be. I also just got a car that sat for 6 years with less than a third of the tank. The fuel pump had also died on it. I just got a new pump, hooked it up to the existing harness, and let it pump most of the old gas out. Put new gas in, and it fired right up :-/ good luck

<slight hijack> How much should the thermostat open while sitting in boiling water? I presume more than about 1/8" of an inch? That's as far as my two new OEM subaru ones opened. </slight hijack>

I'll second that!! I recently got a car that sat for at least 6 years with about a quarter tanks worth of gas in it. The sending gauge was rusted in one position, and there was rust all over the rest of it. Fill it up until there's gas coming out the spout (well, right at the top). The stabil is a good idea also. You don't want to know what 6 year old gas looks like

NO, it is not safe. I happen to have a couple auto trannies lying around. I just took the kickdown relay out of one, and was presented with a gush of ATF. When you tested it, did you manually hit the button under the dash, or just try pressing the gas pedal? You can test it where it is by jumping 12v to the connector going to it.

on a similar topic... what do you all think about 'upgrading' the rear lap belts with shoulder belts from a boneyard? I've torn the trim out some cars at the junkyard and cars with lap belts appear to already have all the mounting holes for the shoulder parts. Seems like it would be a pretty basic bolt in deal. I don't have friends ride the in back too often, but when I do, they always complain about the 'self-tightening POS belts' that usually get unbuckled often to release the tension (then re-buckled, of course). thanks

for the passing mode, I have to press REALLY hard on the gas pedal. If you look under there, there is a button the peddle hits when it's at the floor. I didn't see an easy way to adjust it though. If the pedal is hitting it, then the problem could be with the actual relay on the transmission. It's on the passenger side, just in front of the vacuum modulator (thing with a vacuum line going to it). With the key on, you should be able to flip the switch by the gas pedal with your finger and have someone else listen for the relay on the tranny to click. In my new t-wagon, the dash gauge shows it spooling by about 2K also. This is my first turbo, so I'm not sure if that's normal for these cars or not.

sounds like alternator/battery issues, mainly towards the alternator end of it. I've fixed #7 by cleaning the battery terminals #4 can probably be fixed by re-grounding the wiper motor. #1 happens all the time in my loyale, even makes the fuel pump pulse a bit. I've decided it's due to poor grounding, and will eventually get around to doing something about it, maybe. do you have a DMM to check the voltage the alternator is putting out? Beyond that, I'd check all the ground and make sure they're clean.

use the guide here to pull the codes. It'll only take a few minutes to read them. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 hint, Instead of taking the kick panel out from the drivers side, I just push down a bit on the top edge to see the LED flashing. let us know what the codes are and we can go from there.

d'oh, my bad!

Another thing to check, If you tighten the castle nut, and that doesn't fix it, take the hub off and check the splines. They should each have about a 0.040" wide flat top. If they're pointed and sharp, it could be part of your problem. If the splines are pointed, eventually you'll have a stripped hub, which will require 4wd to get home. I had to replace the front left hub on my 88 GL since it would start grinding if the castle nut backed off hardly any at all (enough to snug up the cotter pin, where it was 'loose' in the hole before). Replaced the hub, and it's been fine ever since.

I would think that a normal 33ohm 1/4watt resistor would work just fine, since that's all the resistance that the coil has. subynut: I have two extra Purge control solenoids lying around. if you want one, PM me.