hooziewhatsit

the PCS and EGR solenoid are essentially the same thing, just with different connectors. The pile I have on my floor right now all measure around 35ish ohms. anywhere from 30 to 40 is fine. Basically, as long as you don't measure in the kiloOhms, it will work.

Nope, that's normal. Every car I've seen has it. I've just assumed it's a vent of some sort.

For sure... My dad tells a story about a former co-worker. He sold a car, did not inform the DMV about it. Few months later police with guns were knocking on his door Apparently his car was used in a robbery of some sort, and the buyers never transfered the title, so, it got traced back to him. After some explaining there were no repercussions in his direction about it.

not really stuck... but embarrassing all the same... going over the backside of Mt. Hood last winter in some 33 degree packed snow (slippery @#$%). Decided to do a 'Brake test'. well, ended up perpindicular to the road with the tail in the ditch, nose pretty high. Put it 4-Lo, pulled out, and kept on going

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28794&highlight=ea82+weigh I recently got an EA82T. A friend and I were able to move it around pretty easy, but it didn't have any of the intake stuff on it. I'd guess maybe 100lbs or so.

<continue hijack> yea, followed the instructions in the FSM. Can a bad valve really cause it to throw this code? I would think the only feedback would be in the solenoid itself. In any case, I'll take another look at it tomorrow then, Thanks. </continue hijack:cool: >

I did.... plug both connectors together... drive a while, it'll either blink clean or come on. It came on again, with good 'ole 34. maybe I'll try it again tomorrow for kicks and giggles.

I ran without mine for almost a year or so, with no noticeable side effects. I reinstalled it a couple months ago hoping it would somehow help my code 34 and CEL go away... it hasn't.

Ideally to check the temperature of the rad you'd take the electric fan off (4 bolts + plug) and/or take the shroud off of the main fan (again, 4 bolts). Then you can easily feel with around with your palm (with the engine off if need be). the temp sensor looking thing in the radiator is actually a thermoswitch. When it gets hot enough it turns the electric fan on. The temp sensor they were refering to are located right by the thermostat. To find them, look here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27784&highlight=coolant+temp+sensor

The relay clicking and fuel pump running are most likely because the green connectors are connected. What code does it throw? 34 for the EGR solenoid?

I just had to replace the fuel pump on an 85 turbo wagon that hasn't run in 6 years... I just let the hoses dangle after about a half gallon came out. After I got the new one in I pumped out about 3 more gallons. Maybe there wasn't enough gas in there to drain out by itself?

welcome to the forums! you'll probably find that cooling is one of the biggest killers of these cars. The gurgling sound in the dash is most likely coming from the heater core. This indicates air in the system, which only hurts cooling. To burp the system, get the nose as high as you can while it's cold. Take the rad cap off and let it warm up, adding water/coolant as needed while squeezing hoses. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the coolant/rad cap if it hasn't been done before in a while. A quick test on the radiator itself is to check for any obvious fin rot, clogged fins, etc. After it's warm, you'll want to *carefully* feel around for hot/cold spots. If there are any present, you'd probably be best off with a new radiator. another potential problem could be the thermostat. They're known to get old and not open all the way, constricting coolant flow and cooling. btw, I've had mine for almost 6 years now... washed once formally, the rest of the time by the rain :cool: good luck

My 88 GL is currently throwing code 34 for the EGR sensor. Funny thing is, the solenoid is just fine... I'm not sure what to do with it. Also, if needed, I know the local junkyard here has a few more purge control solenoids. They're fresh out of EGR solenoids. If anyone needs one, let me know.

they would have to be in parallel. if you put them in serial, you'd have a 24V system (might be fun?)

the short flat straight one is for the front differential The looonngg skinny one in a long fill tube goes to the transmission. IIRC, looking towards the back of the car, standing in front of the car, the front diff is on the left, and the tranny is on the right. edit: to clarify directions :-) I'm never sure about the 'standard' so I always try to clarify when I give directions.

the only vacuum line connected to the valve cover should be the one for the PCV system. I'd pull it all apart and check the PCV valve as well as the hoses for blockages. May not find anything, but it's good to check at any rate.

doj - double offset joint

There was a thread somewhere about a guy making that socket. IIRC, he used a craftsman of the appropriate size, then shortened it on both ends, and did some other stuff to it to make it fit. Not sure if that applies in this case though.

lol, I was just covering the obvious so the wiser could come in make a technical analysis :-p

it isn't something simple like belt tension, is it?

from the USRM above under the misc section, here's the guide to check the codes: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 if both connectors are connected, and the light is blinking, it means that there are no error codes at this time. However, since you're having driving issues, I'd check the codes and go from there. good luck

to adjust the alternator belt, loosen the two 12mm bolts on the alternator, pull up on it to take out any slack, then tighten both of them. To tighten the A/C belt (inside one) Find the 12mm stud near the idler pulley Loosen it and the other bolt on the idler pulley Push down (kinda) on this to take out slack, tighten both down again To Adjust the clutch, Find the clutch cable on top of the engine/tranny There will be two nuts tightened against each other, loosen them, then move them one way or the other (I forget which way is tight/loose) Re-tighten them against each other The hillholder may need to be adjusted also, which takes the same process I believe. Gear shift squeaking could just be some plastic bits rubbing on each other... not sure what else

in my 88 GL, if I drive it cold uphill from a start, I have to be gentle on the gas otherwise it tries to bog down. I'll have to check out the TPS once it warms up outside again (was really nice yesterday, snow this morning and gone already ) To find the TPS, locate the throttle cable on the intake. The TPS is on the other side of the intake from there. It's arranged so the throttle movement opens the flapper in the intake, as well as moving the TPS. It's a black rectangular box about 1/2" thick with 3 or 4 wires in a bundle coming out of it. To test it, we'll need to find the correct contacts, and make sure there is smooth resistance output throughout the range of motion. Hope this helps

Thanks for posting, I'll let my grandparents know there is another person with the problem - should (hopefully) make it easier to get help. Thanks, and welcome to the forum

<semi hijack> Has anyone besides me thought about putting a small two stroke diesel generator in to run the electric motor? I've heard/read that diesels can be tuned to a certain RPM to be very effecient. then, run it on biodiesel and charge the batteries/run the motor. </semi hijack>