hooziewhatsit

rotate the tires, they may be the same pressure, but something else could have gone wrong with them.

a few years ago my girlfriend (wife now) bought a 91 loyal. Been great for us. All we've really had to do to it is gas & oil. Yesterday I decided to go through the maintenance receipts we got from the previous owners... oh my gosh.... They apparently LOVED this car (or got fleeced many times, which I'm leaning towards) 2 clutches, 5 (five) axles, couple oil pump reseals, new struts, EGR soleniod ($120), TPS.... all over a 6.5 year period... spent about 5 grand on it, including one set of tires...

While we were dating, I got my future wife to buy a 91 loyal to replace a Honda that had been given to her and had one heck of a bug in it. So now we're married and have 2 soobs, and someday (soon) hope to get more

poor car... Looks like what was left after a friend and I stripped my sister-in-laws' dodge caravan POS.

I believe the valvecovers have actual gaskets. I suppose you could try tightening the bolts a little (not enough to squeeze the gasket out). You could also get the engine cleaned somewhere (DIY carwash, etc) to help see where the leak is coming from.

My dads' '92 legacy has about 230kish on the ticker. Still going strong, but starting to show its age cosmetically.

wow, a thread back from the dead. Not a bad thing though It's been a while since I talked to my grandpa about this problem, so as far as I know, he's still having the problem. I wonder if we could get your dealership to talk to his... since 'no one else is having the problem' And I have checked legacyGT.com, but haven't found a service bulletin about it.

What do you guys do with the AC compressor to keep from having to release the coolant? Just unbolt it, and move it out of the way?

would soldering the wires after crimping make any real world difference?

that's where I was.... They've gotten real picky the last couple years.... Told him I was showing my wife how to handle in the snow. He said to call and let them know if I wanted to show her again some other time. ohwell, it feels like spring down here now

if anyone would like to produce a DVD, my uncle owns/runs a company that shoots/edits/packages similar stuff. Point being, he has a DVD replicator put a DVD in, tell it to go, wait a while as it burns/prints labels on up to 50 disks, good to go. Just another option out there that should be pretty cheap. We could even have him edit them together, but that might start costing a bit more. I would also like to see some of these videos.

Just don't use the OIT parking lot... Campus security has nothing better to do than watch it (and give you warnings) just remember, when in doubt, power out!

sounds like a vacuum of some sort somewhere. I think I'd try to get that sidemount bolt and see if it helps. you can also spray carb cleaner or similar sparingly in places. If the idle changes, there's a leak there and needs to be fixed. good luck

first thought is to check the oil sender unit wire. It's right by the oil filter, and has a stubby wire that comes out then plugs into another wire. It's very exposed so it can easily get unplugged. Hopefully, all that's happened is this has come undone.

To change the cam seals, it looks like all you have to do is take the timing pulleys off, remove the camshaft support, then replace the seal around it, right? My wife's loyal has oil everywhere, so I'm planning on doing this job sometime as well. About the timing belts, couldn't you cut the cover that's behind the crankshaft pulley in half? Would that give you enough room to remove it with the pulley still on? It's been a while since I looked at mine to see. Also, you could still run with that cover off, but the two other covers on. my 0.02c

Just looked at the car... the good: 1984 GL wagon, 158,000 miles, few body dings, 4 spd d/r tranny, removed carb has had a paper towel in the intake, been sitting since 1998. Oil looks good. I can manually turn the crank, although it's rather stiff. tires on it look shot, but it comes with another set on rims that look alright. the bad: one side of the intake manifold has been unbolted and propped up, exposing that side to moisture. The PCV hose going to the other head is missing, again exposing it to moisture. Driver side window has been cracked about 4 inches for who knows how long outside not covered. So, is it worth it to buy it, get it running, then either sell (most likely) or convert to off road beast? I get the feeling the owner just wants to get rid of it, so I can probably grab it for $150ish. thanks

Edit: Looked at the car and have some more questions... I'm seriously considering buying a local '84 wagon for $300, and all it needs is a carb. The local JY has carbs for $40, I just need to pull it. My question is, what do I look for to get a good carb? I've read the threads about finding webers vs. hitachi. All I'm worried about is finding one that works. So do I basically need to make sure all the moving parts move? Not rusted? etc. Supposedly when this car did have the carb, it didn't want to run. It was taken off to get rebuilt, then the guys kid moved and lost it. With this limited information, could I get another carb, slap it on, and maybe drive it off? thanks for the help -Dave

most of that's about what the rates are in the local JY here. A little bit cheaper on some stuff ($35 for an alternator). they also charge $25 for hubs. doesn't seem too bad when you compare to new prices, if you can even get it new, but it would be nice if they were cheaper

sweet, later today I should get a call back about an 85 wagon that runs well but needs a carb for $300. Depending on miles, etc, I may try to talk him down. hmm, guess this means I'm hooked also... edit: only 158000 miles... so tempting...

Hey all, searched and didn't find much on this topic. Been trying to track down a grinding noise while braking in my wifes 91 loyale (4wd, non turbo). Found out that one of the rear shoes is down to metal on metal, so that drum gets to get re-turned. my question is, how important is it to get a new spring set when I redo them? That shoe is gone on one end, and still has a few 16ths on the other side. The other shoe on that side wore pretty evenly. The other side of the car has pretty uneven wear also. Other question: even though the fronts still have a fair amount of wear left, should I redo them at the same time, or let them go a while longer? When I replaced the brakes on our other car a couple years ago the wear was pretty uneven also. thanks for the help -Dave

ouch... seems like if they did it wrong they should pay to do it right. But.. on the other hand... this is K falls... Glad to hear you got it worked out.

found buried off the front page: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/mechanical/engine-specs.html (I was bored a while ago so I checked out most all of the links here) most of them are around 90 HP, if you're at 5600 rpm

I recall reading that it had to be 12mm thick. I'm sure Mudrat79 could tell ya.

wow.. they say a pictures worth a thousand words... thanks, that clears up some questions I had.

One option would be to add a switch on the fuel pump. Unless they know where it is, they won't be going anywhere. I'm sure other members will show up with some good ideas also.