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I reckon these are way better than the third light setup... They work really well too, I win many high beam wars with dipshits that don’t dip their lights to oncoming traffic! I love a good set of driving lights Cheers Bennie

All warning lights on dash indicates alternator issue. It should still run until battery dies though. On the earlier models like yours they run all the time. Sometime near ‘83 or ‘84 the introduced the little power interrupt relay box to cut the fuel pump in the event of a crash. Cheers Bennie

Just put a bit of soapy water on the belts to make them quiet, or just rub a bar of soap on the belts, it’ll work it’s way around so don’t be stressed about having too much or not enough, can always add more if needed. Cheers Bennie

In floor of boot/trunk/cargo area. Should be a little sliver plate off centre to the RHS. Cheers Bennie

This is true too. But the MT must have the bearing retainers removed to replace the seal as the seal is push in place from the diff side of the retainer. I hope that makes sense. The gearbox does NOT have to be split to replace these seals for the MTs. more just buy quality markers Steptoe! I use sharpies and I can’t remove the marks with metho, I think they’d need to be polished out! But I do like your thinking. Cheers Bennie

The other thing to check is that the fuel cutout relay is working properly. It could be priming with ignition on but cutting the pump while the engine runs because it’s not getting the signal to say the engine is running - or the relay box thing is dead. Common on the Brat era vehicles, don’t think it’s common on the L series. Cheers Bennie

Remove tank cap, blow compressed air from pump line (but not through pump) back to tank, clean out what you can via the fuel gauge sender unit hole. Can do same for fuel line from engine bay back to the pump, but again, not through the pump or the filters. This should give you a clear line to work with, or show up where the blockage might be located. Cheers Bennie

A fellow Aussie... Easiest way is to look out for a cheap Liberty that’s manual - one with a blown HG or that’s been hit along the side. Avoid anything where the engine or rear diff have moved as these will always result in potential gearbox damage internally. Having a donor vehicle ensures you have EVERYTHING you need. No multiple trips to the wreckers. Jollys and pick a part are good self serve wreckers in Melbs, so are Imalach’s (formally centre rd wreckers). Buying from a wrecker will probably cost more than your car is worth! Engineering won’t be required as it came from factory as an option for that model vehicle. You will need to ensure your rego at Vicroads says it’s a manual and that you ensure you get your manual licence for your P’s. Cops love P platers! But they’re nothing to stress about if you have a neat vehicle, drive sensibly and if pulled over always be polite no matter how pissed off you might be. This conversion will already be well documented, do some searching. Also join up at Ausubaru if you haven’t already, I’ll keep an eye out for you there too. Again, there will be swaps discussed there too Cheers Bennie

And still a good read from start to finish! Now waiting for the edit of the thread revival post to be edited with a dodgy link in the next week or so (also happy to be proven wrong)! Cheers Bennie

If you have the double slide joint CVS they’ll be the same boot at either end. The L series rear inner boot should be the same, front inner boot *might* work too but it’s a gamble. I’ve heard good things about those silicone units from a mate that services Brumbys for a living. Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! Interesting you went with dual alternators, why not run a dual battery system that isolates the auxiliary battery and uses one alternator? And are they rubber straps holding the batteries in place? I’d be changing those ASAP as they’ll allow the batteries to move around if you hit some rough stuff. Got any more details on your camper trailer? Looks lightweight. Cheers Bennie

That’s awesome mate. Glad they had your back with their stuff up - and that they were big enough to admit it and rectify the issue too! Hopefully the two employees that caused this issue weren’t fired over the matter - and that they learn from the experience so something like this doesn’t happen again! Well done on keeping your cool Cheers Bennie

Also look into a shot wheel bearing. Cheers Bennie

It’s Monday here in Oz. Can’t wait for it to be Monday over there and the update shared. Hopefully something simple/cheap! Cheers Bennie

I’m guessing it’s an auto. Could be a loose exhaust hanger bolt, broken engine or gearbox mount or a heat shroud that’s rubbing on something it shouldn’t be. Keep an ear out for it developing further and see if you can get a general location that it seems to be coming from Cheers Bennie

That’s insane! But I can see how it swings people towards electric vehicles. Once majority are there watch the tax follow on to electric vehicles too - probably a distance travelled tax with the technology of trackable GPS. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

The seals should have the rubber extension/flap piece mounted so this is external. In that third pic, it’s backwards. Cheers Bennie

Ah yeah that makes sense. I thought the autos were all the same and the manual flywheels are all the same - but different between auto and manuals. Cheers Bennie

Flywheel diametre different between EJ models? First I’ve heard about this! Different weights, but you probably wouldn’t notice this too much as the driver. EJ22 with bolt up to and run the EJ25 gear no worries. Likewise an EJ22 flywheel and clutch will work fine with that gearbox. You just need to ensure you have the NON turbo (push) style clutch kit and it’ll work no worries. For example, I have a Gen1 EJ22e with its matching flywheel and clutch working just fine with the phase 2 eight bolt gearbox in my L series. It’s seriously Lego! Cheers Bennie

G’day SiriusB, I can’t help with the ECU tune but @GeneralDisorder will be able to help out there. That gearbox click immediately had me thinking of a chipped tooth on the second gear’s gear set. It’ll eventually let go completely if not rebuilt. A replacement gearbox would be easier though. You could drain the gearbox oil and see what else comes out and if there are any teeth bits sitting around the drain hole. It sucks that you’re in this situation, I bet you paid the Covid tax on this WRX too. They’ve all gone UP in price over here since covid hit, not just WRX’s either - just about all vehicles! Cheers Bennie

Or just the chassis and a cage Cheers Bennie

It’ll be the centre diff unless you happen to have a VLSD up front and it happened to fail. Replace centre diff, go from there I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Split transmission to remove the circlip that holds the diff stub axle in place. No other way to do it other than brute force - and lose the circlip in the box. Not what you wanted to hear I bet. What’s the issue with that stub axle? They’re pretty tough things! Cheers Bennie

Easiest way todo a H6 “conversion” is buy a H6 model and convert it to manual. Much easier than an engine conversion! Forester rear struts won’t work on the Gen 3 platform, later model units from the SH onwards *might*. Many do a 2 inch strut lift without any issues. As GD said, replace your current springs for a standard height King spring (HD if you want a firmer ride) and you’ll be set. If going for raised springs you’ll have to add in subframe drop blocks as well (also known as a lift) to keep the CV angles happy. This build aims for best approach, departure and ramp over angles on a Subaru. SLO does a “monster lift” kit and others too that have the subframe drop from memory, they also do strut lift blocks if you’re just wanting some easy height over stock. Cheers Bennie

Don’t think so. They’ll be like any other cam type caliper. I did mine on the L series in a car park before a 4wd trip. Took an hour or two all up from memory: Basically pull them apart, clean up any rust or dirt build up, grease the new square edge O rings (with brake fluid from memory), refit pistons and dust covers. You can try filling the caliper with brake fluid to reduce the amount of time and effort required to bleed the brakes once it’s all fitted back as it should be. The important bit is that your pistons and cylinder walls aren’t pitted. From memory the piston sides are chromed and you want to avoid pitting on them, but you can get away with some or minor pitting. The cylinder wall can’t have any pitting otherwise the seal will be damaged. This is the reason why you should replace your dust boots if they’re ever torn! I hope that helps. Cheers Bennie