el_freddo

Out and about the other day Cheers Bennie

Sounds like someone had modified the wiring some time ago, or you have wire damage from rats etc. You’d be best to trace ALL wiring from the back of your brat to the front to find out where the issue is. It sounds like someone had tapped a power wire for the indicator and reverse light from the brake light. This circuit is broke when the globe is removed. This had me thinking the issue can’t be too far away from the tail light. Got a trailer plug fitted? Look into this too as it could be the source of the issue, not uncommon for someone to bugger that job up. Cheers Bennie

Or it’s a set of EA81t heads on an EA81 NA block, although running SPFI would negate the need for the EA81t MPFI heads, so I guess that’s out. I’m keen to see what you’re working with as it sounds very interesting and it’s got me intrigued! Cheers Bennie

I love the strut bar setup! I actually like the shape of that one, maybe I’ve come round on them. The back end looks better than the EA81 and EA82 sedan rear ends I reckon. So what’s the plan then, tidy up and rego it? Do you have a cheaper club rego scheme over there for car enthusiasts? We have one here, some ppl unfortunately abuse the system. We can only hope they’re busted doing it. Anyway, cool find and it must have been priced just right to leverage the money from your wallet! And I love it how you’re working out how you have three of these now Cheers Bennie

Sorry, I read the GL-10 bit and immediately thought of the L series EA82 model, not the EA81 models. I’ve found the easiest way to sort this out is to always grab the wiring behind the dashboard that matches the instrument cluster you’re wanting to use. These wiring looms are interchangeable plug and play swaps. This is how I go from the factory three gauge cluster in the brumby/brat to the longer six gauge cluster (with matching dashboard so it all fits). Our brumby/brats down here didn’t come with the fancier instrument cluster options like many US delivered brats had from factory. At the end of the day with a bit of work it’s all Lego All the best! Bennie

What you’ve done is crossed an earth switched wire with a positive switched wire. This will do your head in. The specific wire could be any of your power sources or the illumination wire if your head unit came with one. This is the wire I would suspect to be the issue. Work out which wire and we’ll go from there as I’m not 100% what the fix is. Cheers Bennie

Other way to do it is DIY the pinouts by tracing each pin behind the instrument cluster back to where it comes from. Cheers Bennie

Hey Rafa, my EJ conversion is in my L series, not my Brumby/brat/MV. But it can be done. Cheers Bennie

Could be a shot CV joint up front or a worn out front hub spline, allowing the cv shaft to spin in the hub. Or a front shaft may be removed for some reason with the hub held together with the remains of the outer joint with the stub axle piece. Cheers Bennie

I always dip my lights then give the oncoming driver about three generous seconds to reciprocate, then my big lights go back on until they decide to dip their lights. I’m not out to just blind ppl, they need a fair chance! I’ve had one or two occasions where the oncoming vehicle has dazzling LED light bars that are that shite even (for them) for their driver that they simply don’t see the lights of the oncoming driver until they’re basically already passed! Very frustrating! And yes, I hate the cool white of the LED lights - try driving in fog with that crap! No thanks. I’ll stick with my power hungry halogen lights Cheers Bennie

EJ MT seals that also use the stub axles are the same as the L series stuff. Spline count doesn’t matter Same for the large O ring items! Cheers Bennie

@6 Star - geez mate, where’d you pull those from? Awesome!! Cheers Bennie

I think you’ll find those Allen keys are for the abs tone ring, nothing more. If you can push the hub off the bearing/knuckle then you can push it into the replacement knuckle from the wreckers, I don’t think it will matter which knuckle you use if you keep to the same era of Subaru Cheers Bennie

I reckon these are way better than the third light setup... They work really well too, I win many high beam wars with dipshits that don’t dip their lights to oncoming traffic! I love a good set of driving lights Cheers Bennie

All warning lights on dash indicates alternator issue. It should still run until battery dies though. On the earlier models like yours they run all the time. Sometime near ‘83 or ‘84 the introduced the little power interrupt relay box to cut the fuel pump in the event of a crash. Cheers Bennie

Just put a bit of soapy water on the belts to make them quiet, or just rub a bar of soap on the belts, it’ll work it’s way around so don’t be stressed about having too much or not enough, can always add more if needed. Cheers Bennie

In floor of boot/trunk/cargo area. Should be a little sliver plate off centre to the RHS. Cheers Bennie

This is true too. But the MT must have the bearing retainers removed to replace the seal as the seal is push in place from the diff side of the retainer. I hope that makes sense. The gearbox does NOT have to be split to replace these seals for the MTs. more just buy quality markers Steptoe! I use sharpies and I can’t remove the marks with metho, I think they’d need to be polished out! But I do like your thinking. Cheers Bennie

The other thing to check is that the fuel cutout relay is working properly. It could be priming with ignition on but cutting the pump while the engine runs because it’s not getting the signal to say the engine is running - or the relay box thing is dead. Common on the Brat era vehicles, don’t think it’s common on the L series. Cheers Bennie

Remove tank cap, blow compressed air from pump line (but not through pump) back to tank, clean out what you can via the fuel gauge sender unit hole. Can do same for fuel line from engine bay back to the pump, but again, not through the pump or the filters. This should give you a clear line to work with, or show up where the blockage might be located. Cheers Bennie

A fellow Aussie... Easiest way is to look out for a cheap Liberty that’s manual - one with a blown HG or that’s been hit along the side. Avoid anything where the engine or rear diff have moved as these will always result in potential gearbox damage internally. Having a donor vehicle ensures you have EVERYTHING you need. No multiple trips to the wreckers. Jollys and pick a part are good self serve wreckers in Melbs, so are Imalach’s (formally centre rd wreckers). Buying from a wrecker will probably cost more than your car is worth! Engineering won’t be required as it came from factory as an option for that model vehicle. You will need to ensure your rego at Vicroads says it’s a manual and that you ensure you get your manual licence for your P’s. Cops love P platers! But they’re nothing to stress about if you have a neat vehicle, drive sensibly and if pulled over always be polite no matter how pissed off you might be. This conversion will already be well documented, do some searching. Also join up at Ausubaru if you haven’t already, I’ll keep an eye out for you there too. Again, there will be swaps discussed there too Cheers Bennie

And still a good read from start to finish! Now waiting for the edit of the thread revival post to be edited with a dodgy link in the next week or so (also happy to be proven wrong)! Cheers Bennie

If you have the double slide joint CVS they’ll be the same boot at either end. The L series rear inner boot should be the same, front inner boot *might* work too but it’s a gamble. I’ve heard good things about those silicone units from a mate that services Brumbys for a living. Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! Interesting you went with dual alternators, why not run a dual battery system that isolates the auxiliary battery and uses one alternator? And are they rubber straps holding the batteries in place? I’d be changing those ASAP as they’ll allow the batteries to move around if you hit some rough stuff. Got any more details on your camper trailer? Looks lightweight. Cheers Bennie

That’s awesome mate. Glad they had your back with their stuff up - and that they were big enough to admit it and rectify the issue too! Hopefully the two employees that caused this issue weren’t fired over the matter - and that they learn from the experience so something like this doesn’t happen again! Well done on keeping your cool Cheers Bennie