el_freddo

You might need to set up a relay - triggered using the wiring for the ash tray light or illumination light for the heater controls/cig lighter. Then run a separate power wire controlled by the relay to the headunit’s illumination wire. This should get around any negative earthing issues etc and have the function work as you’re wanting. Cheers Bennie

All sorted then! You’ve got the car’s illumination stuff sorted and the stez works as it should now? Lucky you didn’t damage the headunit! Cheers Bennie

Yep, it’s a fun job... got anything else you’d like to say?? Cheers Bennie

Merry Christmas “Old school” Subi nuts, and to the other Subi nuts out there too! It’s snowing hard down here Seriously, it’s shorts and Tshirt weather even at 33 minutes to Christmas Day! Stress less America, you’ll get there Best wishes and I hope you get some Subi bits etc from the big man! Cheers Bennie (ps: not wanting to turn this into a Christmas thread! Thought the pic would be good shared here!)

Awesome. The EA81 will do the job and just keep going if you keep the fluids up to it. It won’t be fast though. The EJ22 will be all of the above with some added speed ability too. Still no WRX but a good load of usable torque to help move things along. Got a pic of your EFI setup? Being EA81 I think you’ll find no advantages to throwing coin at an aftermarket engine management system... Cheers Bennie

Out and about the other day Cheers Bennie

Sounds like someone had modified the wiring some time ago, or you have wire damage from rats etc. You’d be best to trace ALL wiring from the back of your brat to the front to find out where the issue is. It sounds like someone had tapped a power wire for the indicator and reverse light from the brake light. This circuit is broke when the globe is removed. This had me thinking the issue can’t be too far away from the tail light. Got a trailer plug fitted? Look into this too as it could be the source of the issue, not uncommon for someone to bugger that job up. Cheers Bennie

Or it’s a set of EA81t heads on an EA81 NA block, although running SPFI would negate the need for the EA81t MPFI heads, so I guess that’s out. I’m keen to see what you’re working with as it sounds very interesting and it’s got me intrigued! Cheers Bennie

I love the strut bar setup! I actually like the shape of that one, maybe I’ve come round on them. The back end looks better than the EA81 and EA82 sedan rear ends I reckon. So what’s the plan then, tidy up and rego it? Do you have a cheaper club rego scheme over there for car enthusiasts? We have one here, some ppl unfortunately abuse the system. We can only hope they’re busted doing it. Anyway, cool find and it must have been priced just right to leverage the money from your wallet! And I love it how you’re working out how you have three of these now Cheers Bennie

Sorry, I read the GL-10 bit and immediately thought of the L series EA82 model, not the EA81 models. I’ve found the easiest way to sort this out is to always grab the wiring behind the dashboard that matches the instrument cluster you’re wanting to use. These wiring looms are interchangeable plug and play swaps. This is how I go from the factory three gauge cluster in the brumby/brat to the longer six gauge cluster (with matching dashboard so it all fits). Our brumby/brats down here didn’t come with the fancier instrument cluster options like many US delivered brats had from factory. At the end of the day with a bit of work it’s all Lego All the best! Bennie

What you’ve done is crossed an earth switched wire with a positive switched wire. This will do your head in. The specific wire could be any of your power sources or the illumination wire if your head unit came with one. This is the wire I would suspect to be the issue. Work out which wire and we’ll go from there as I’m not 100% what the fix is. Cheers Bennie

Other way to do it is DIY the pinouts by tracing each pin behind the instrument cluster back to where it comes from. Cheers Bennie

Hey Rafa, my EJ conversion is in my L series, not my Brumby/brat/MV. But it can be done. Cheers Bennie

Could be a shot CV joint up front or a worn out front hub spline, allowing the cv shaft to spin in the hub. Or a front shaft may be removed for some reason with the hub held together with the remains of the outer joint with the stub axle piece. Cheers Bennie

I always dip my lights then give the oncoming driver about three generous seconds to reciprocate, then my big lights go back on until they decide to dip their lights. I’m not out to just blind ppl, they need a fair chance! I’ve had one or two occasions where the oncoming vehicle has dazzling LED light bars that are that shite even (for them) for their driver that they simply don’t see the lights of the oncoming driver until they’re basically already passed! Very frustrating! And yes, I hate the cool white of the LED lights - try driving in fog with that crap! No thanks. I’ll stick with my power hungry halogen lights Cheers Bennie

EJ MT seals that also use the stub axles are the same as the L series stuff. Spline count doesn’t matter Same for the large O ring items! Cheers Bennie

@6 Star - geez mate, where’d you pull those from? Awesome!! Cheers Bennie

I think you’ll find those Allen keys are for the abs tone ring, nothing more. If you can push the hub off the bearing/knuckle then you can push it into the replacement knuckle from the wreckers, I don’t think it will matter which knuckle you use if you keep to the same era of Subaru Cheers Bennie

I reckon these are way better than the third light setup... They work really well too, I win many high beam wars with dipshits that don’t dip their lights to oncoming traffic! I love a good set of driving lights Cheers Bennie

All warning lights on dash indicates alternator issue. It should still run until battery dies though. On the earlier models like yours they run all the time. Sometime near ‘83 or ‘84 the introduced the little power interrupt relay box to cut the fuel pump in the event of a crash. Cheers Bennie

Just put a bit of soapy water on the belts to make them quiet, or just rub a bar of soap on the belts, it’ll work it’s way around so don’t be stressed about having too much or not enough, can always add more if needed. Cheers Bennie

In floor of boot/trunk/cargo area. Should be a little sliver plate off centre to the RHS. Cheers Bennie

This is true too. But the MT must have the bearing retainers removed to replace the seal as the seal is push in place from the diff side of the retainer. I hope that makes sense. The gearbox does NOT have to be split to replace these seals for the MTs. more just buy quality markers Steptoe! I use sharpies and I can’t remove the marks with metho, I think they’d need to be polished out! But I do like your thinking. Cheers Bennie

The other thing to check is that the fuel cutout relay is working properly. It could be priming with ignition on but cutting the pump while the engine runs because it’s not getting the signal to say the engine is running - or the relay box thing is dead. Common on the Brat era vehicles, don’t think it’s common on the L series. Cheers Bennie

Remove tank cap, blow compressed air from pump line (but not through pump) back to tank, clean out what you can via the fuel gauge sender unit hole. Can do same for fuel line from engine bay back to the pump, but again, not through the pump or the filters. This should give you a clear line to work with, or show up where the blockage might be located. Cheers Bennie