el_freddo

I’ve seen several European LHD motor homes in Bendigo in the last few years. Very odd to see on our roads! But cool being able to cruise different countries in your own vehicle (this is a generally odd concept on Oz since we’re surrounded by water). Cheers Bennie

We do have LHD imports that are typically special interest vehicle. You certainly don’t see LHD vehicles over here often! And your driver is on the wrong side of the vehicle. Cheers Bennie

G’day Erik, Please excuse GD’s shortness, his time is money as he runs a Subaru specialist shop and has many years of experience around many different Subaru models. He speaks the truth as brutal as it can be to hear it. I was in the process of writing out a reply earlier today but got distracted by something more important, my reply was along similar lines as GD’s but mainly - WHY all the clear pipe work? It’s not a science experiment and to me it makes your engine bay look cheap. As for the air oil separator, yeah gimmicky blah blah; that said I have a small one on my brumby - just a cheap oil catch can from eBay plumbed in before the PCV valve. I’ve shoved some steel wool in the catch can and the crap it collects is insane. I must say my engine isn’t the healthiest and I regularly do short trips to and from work - hence why it fills so quickly. I neglected to check it after about six weeks and it was amazing to see how milky water this thing collected. What you’re doing isn’t my thing. Just ensure your hoses are all compatible with the fluids they carry, otherwise you could end up with a fiery mess. Cheers Bennie

Here’s a few threads for you to read @SiriusBlack. I haven’t read all of them as I posted as many are a decade or more in age! You’ll see the efforts ppl put into the EA82t and the frustrations at the end of it all. Here’s Discopotato who put in LOADS of time and effort into his build: ECU talk: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=15414 Header discussion/mods: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=15213 Tech edge wideband: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=15122 Larger high impedance injectors: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=14732 Newly built EA82t with general list of mods in beginning of thread: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=14544 WRX exhaust modified to RX L series: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=12590 Retro fitting TD04 or TF035 to EA82t: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=9891 Spider manifold stuff: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=9257 https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=6273 That should just about do it. There’s more from Discopotato and you might even find stuff of his on here too. He went right into full suspension mods to have the best handling RX possible. Of course by today’s standard it would’ve still been woeful at best. What was the demise of his build? A can of UEC was used and it seemed to have a gummy valve after that and never ran the same. He parted it out. I’m not dissing Discopotato, what he did was to stick within our vehicle modification rules to avoid the need for an engineer, he definitely pushed the EA82t to the limits of a build but he also spent loads of time and money in the process. Here’s some other reading from other forum members, Blackmale’s opening to the under bonnet temps thread says it all: Manifold stuff: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=13110 Under bonnet temp reduction trials: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=13017 Intercoolers: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=12980 Custom downpipe: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=12145 EA82t performance questions: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=9385 Cheers Bennie

Pull the hub off and see if the axle needs to be swapped out. I reckon you’ll find the axle is ok to reuse and the hub is toast. Cheers Bennie

When in 2wd mode, in gear, clutch out, engine tuning - does the speedo register anything or just stay on zero? This will give you a clue as to what to look at. If there’s no speed indicated it’ll be the 2wd selector not engaging properly, if it’s showing something on the speedo it’ll be a hub or driveshaft issue. Cheers Bennie

I agree with silerhelm and DaveT. Shot hub spline, shot CV joint or not properly engaged in 2wd mode. All are easy to investigate and relatively cheap to fix too, unless your 2wd setting within the gearbox is shot, but you’d have metal chunks in the gearbox oil if this were the case - and it would be the last thing I’d check if you don’t find any other issues that resolve the problem. Cheers Bennie

Yeah mate that sucks. At least you got a ride before the lockdown. Looks like regional Vic is staring down the barrel of an impending lockdown. Shepparton went from one case this morning to 17 by this evening! Definite grounds for lockdown! Great to see your L getting out though. Hopefully the rain stays away so I can work on mine (outside ). Cheers Bennie

Suspension is where the best bang for buck will be in mods for your Impreza. A tune might tidy up the power delivery a tiny bit to your driving style. There should be small changes that could be made in the tune that’ll change the feel of the drive. Cheers Bennie

I’d be looking into the Lemon laws of your area and sticking it to the dealership. Subarus have the same build quality as Toyota’s, just without the typical “Toyota Tax”. Hold the dealer to account if the lemon law allows you to. It’s not good enough for a new vehicle of any sort to be in the workshop for much more than a general service with an oil change. Cheers Bennie

Geez mate, your hospital visit sounds epic. Glad to hear you’re out again. Cheers Bennie

Mine is a 1990 model - and remember it’s a RHD model. I didn’t think there would be any difference between the LHD and RHD models but I could be very wrong on that. I haven’t looked into what wires go to/from the brown fusible link box. I know there’s one main wire from the positive of the battery to the brown box to supply 12v to the fusible links. Cheers Bennie

Check your crank angle sensor and it’s associated wiring for issues. They’re not known to die but anything is possible. Cheers Bennie

The brown box here in my pics are what your chasing in parts 45&46 I hope that gives you a bit of an idea of what you’re chasing. Cheers Bennie

@G3.Spiffy - sorry for not getting back to you earlier. The NA tank without baffles shouldn’t be an issue - I ran my NA MPFI with the carb tank for ages and only had a power lull at times, I think it was the small return line. I never got to the bottom of that one as I swapped the tank out for an EFI unit and upgraded the return line when I went EJ. It could be a blocked filter. I doubt injectors would clear themselves up. You should sort out that TPS issue and get that out of the way. Also check your temp sensor for the ECU. If that’s out of whack it seems it can do some strange things from what I’ve read. @DaveT will be able to throw more light on the temp sensor info. Cheers Bennie

Interesting and looks like a painful part to track down due to lack of numbers out there in comparison to the other ratios! Cheers Bennie

I actually never got back to him as my mate I was helping got one sorted Cheers Bennie

Not even a JDM option to my knowledge. And there’s no 3.08 gear ratio either. Typical first ratios are 3.454 or 3.545, second is 2.something or a high 1.something from memory. There are plenty of charts out there. I don’t even know if the Datsun crew have a 3.08 ratio. I know this ratio was available in the Holdens (Australia). Dunno about fords, not a Ford man. I hope this helps you out somehow. I’m looking forward to hear what you’re up to. Cheers Bennie

Check your engine and trans mounts. Cheers Bennie

When was the last service on the auto completed? Cheers Bennie

To keep things together, this is the previous discussion posted in the 90’s model section (because it’s a late model brumby). Cheers Bennie

Same here for the engine stand as GD said. The phase 2 engine has “8 bolts” but is best described as GD did. The starter motor bolts are two of the eight that hold the engine to the bell housing. Cheers Bennie

On the trans is probably overboard! Engine I can understand, especially if Racecar. Cheers Bennie

That’s a huge facepalm! What were they thinking?! Cheers Bennie

You’ll need: - Engine, air box - wiring loom and ECU - any intercooler stuff - gearbox would be a good idea too, as would rear diff to match the ratio The hardest part is the wiring cut down. Many ppl freak out at this point and give up, but it’s doable with a wiring diagram and some (a lot) of patience. Label EVERYTHING! The other way to go is with an aftermarket loom where you pin it to the engine loom plugs. GD can give you directions on this way and the cost for the system etc. He deals with Link computers/ECUs. There will be a bit of work involved to fit the gearbox but the payoff in traction and general handling will be well worth the effort. You’ll probably need a new crossmember, change the length of the shifter rods and lengthen the prop shaft. If not using the donor vehicle’s gearbox, you’ll need an adaptor plate and to upgrade the clutch to hold the power of the turbo. After this it’s all about hoping you don’t grenade the gearbox, but it will happen at some point! Brakes will need looking at too. You could do a 5 stud conversion but finding the rear hubs for the L series rear stub axles from an XT6 is apparently near impossible these days. There are other dodgy ways around it. The other option is to have the all wheel disc brakes in tip top condition and drive accordingly! That’s the basics of it without going into nitty gritty detail in terms of wiring etc. Cheers Bennie