el_freddo

https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=4919 ^ many pics missing early on in the thread but last time I checked the later pics are still there This is to show you the sort of effort required, even then it’s limited to certain design aspects of the Subaru. Cheers Bennie

It’s probably in the snow belt now (trying to make light of a shite situation). Bennie

Awesome story and an interesting form of motivation. That rust under the windscreen is pretty normal unfortunately. The rust in the rear end looks like someone backed it into the ocean and didn’t wash it down after. Keep the build going, you’ll love it once it’s done - and if you do it right you won’t be doing this again anytime soon! What’s the plan other than restore it? Going to paint it beige again or something a bit of fun? EA81 or drop an EJ into it? That wiring, don’t stress over it. The good thing about Brumbys is that they’re quite basic wiring-wise ;) Cheers Bennie PS: totally wrote the above a week ago, seems I never posted it. Thanks editor for saving it!

Are we talking the ‘70s shaped brat or the 80’s version? If it’s the earlier one (f88?), you will have difficulty fitting an EJ in there, but it can be done as I’ve seen one on the net here in Oz that was done. Can’t remember where I saw it. I do remember it had discs all round and I think a 5 stud conversion. The EJ suspension will have about half of your tyre hanging outside the front and rear guards from what I understand of the track width difference. Cheers Bennie

@1 Lucky Texan - bang on the money mate! Rule #1 with Subaru engine block changes: always retain the original crank and LHS cam sprockets for this exact reason. Glad to read it worked out easy in the end, and I’m sure you are too @Subgirl76 Cheers Bennie

Welcome @SubiJay Im sure there will be someone close to you. I’m not, but if you’re ever in SE Oz, send us a PM (goes for any USMB member!), will have to wait a decade for this virus to be contained and our borders to be open again Cheers Bennie

Awesome! Hopefully once the cooling system is hooked up you’ll find it’s all leak free and good to go! Is this one non turbo? Bummer (in some ways!) Cheers Bennie

And the Brat weighs in at what, 2000-2200 pounds? (I’m having to convert in my head as I think they’re about 1050kg from memory). Cheers Bennie

Pretty common. You’re lucky you got it before the side tank blew out and took out the HGs or engine with it. That was my introduction to plastic end tanks. Then the best yet came - blew two heater cores in the middle of summer. That was fun. All of this was in my L series. Cheers Bennie

You will need a custom intake manifold if you want the coolant passage to be seperate to the air intake tract, the the manifold as such. On the EJ the coolant is separate to the intake manifold so keeping heat away from the intake is a whole lot easier. Keen to see where you go with this as a matter of interest more than anything. Cheers Bennie

Can you get these rims without the bolt pattern drilled before purchase? Then have a shop drill to 4x140. Interesting you have ATVs that are heavier than the Brat! Cheers Bennie

Someone has a foot on the throttle to hold revs where they’re needed? Cheers Bennie

If you have all the parts and the two vehicles are the same generation, you can swap the AC in. I’ve done it with one of our Brumbys over here. Pulled all the AC gear, including wiring from the touring wagon and dropped it into the Brumby. Took the PS as well Cheers Bennie

Just no. 3mm is a lot when it comes to bolt patterns. This idea is all kinds of wrong. Cheers Bennie

So that’s a no?

If you had a massive radiator, maybe, but we’re talking about a small unit. Plus it ends up back in the head anyway where it gets more heat. I can’t see how it would stagnate. But then again, I don’t understand the EA82t cooling system. Cheers Bennie

That’s a crazy amount of gunk on that throttle body! Have you tried running a can of upper engine cleaner through the engine? Follow the instructions to a T and keep the revs up as you spray the remainder of the bottle in. I’d say you have some very dirty intake valves - the back side of them. This could be causing issues with the air fuel mixture entering the cylinder. What sort of compression are you getting on each cylinder? Cheers Bennie

An intercooler will certainly help keep intake temps down - the extra rad post turbo before the hot coolant hits the EA82 head will be most effective at pulling heat out of the system and helping with the longevity of the EA82t. Cheers Bennie

Interesting @Numbchux. Over here the SJM is cut out and left in the scrap pile. I presumed it would be the same in other markets too. Apologies for the bum steer @glife Cheers Bennie

If you have electronic throttle control you might not have an idle air control valve as the ECU should be able to manipulate the throttle for appropriate idle speed. It could be worth checking to see if the throttle body is clean. All the best Bennie

Check out the idle air control valve. On my sister’s EJ251 it can cause stalling issues as it’s either not operating properly or the rubber bung on the end isn’t sealing properly as it should. Or it’s dirty, causing less air than intended to get through when needed. Cheers Bennie

What’s this got to do with a ‘97 EJ22 in a ‘98 outback? I’m confused Cheers Bennie

How does that work?? @oczuk32 - what’s wrong with your mechanical fan? Are they a viscous unit? If so you might be able to replace the fluid inside it for some fresh stuff that should make a difference. I know the guys over here replace the fluid in their Monteros (I think that’s what they’re called over there. They’re known as a Pajero over here and also a Shogun elsewhere). Cheers Bennie

This is a common mod over here. A fella I know that still runs the EA82t has this setup using a small motorbike radiator. I can’t remember if he has this mounted in front of or behind the main radiator, I think in front. @Step-a-toe might be able to shed more light on it as he *should* be running this mod with his EA82t to help keep it cool! Cheers Bennie

Second thing to check (if the belt is good) is that the rotor button’s retainer screw is installed. Cheers Bennie