el_freddo

You could do this in stages. Start with the engine and gearbox conversion. Gearbox will need custom crossmember, tail shaft and possibly gear linkages (I’m about to do this and find out in the next few months) Wiring is “easy” - after you’ve done one or two loom cut downs: Basically you work out what’s the ECU plug wiring, what goes to the engine, O2 sensor, AFM, starter motor, ignitor etc, then cut away the rest. If there’s a splice in the wiring, cut out the one that branches off from between the ECU and it’s respective plug at the engine end. There are several wires you’re looking for as well - VSS (vehicle speed sensor), check engine light, main power with ignition, permanent power, back up permanent power, coolant temp and oil idiot light wires. The last two can use the factory EA81 wiring to keep it simple. If you want the EJ instrument cluster it can be done and fitted with minor mods (from my understanding) unless you have the long cluster arrangement. Wiring stuff I’m not sure about for the cluster as I’ve never used the donor’s cluster but have seen it done on other forums. The brakes will need front EJ knuckles/hub which means a strut swap and a custom driveshaft too. Rear gets complicated with the need of a custom hub that adapts the EJ stud pattern to the EA stub axle. Once you have this the EJ brake backing plate needs to be drilled to fit the EA swing arm. Then bolt all the EJ brake setup onto the swing arm and she’s apples. Next up is working out the hand brake arrangement. Using the section of EJ trans tunnel where the cables enter under the floor mats would make this much easier. That’s about it for brakes. Widening the track width to that of the legacy is another project in itself. You will end up with almost half the tyre outside the guards and you will need to graft strut towers into the rear of the wagon - and brace this to make it last the distance. I hope this gives you some insight as to what you’re up for. Personally I’d stop after sorting the brakes to EJ. Cheers Bennie

That seems odd. SJM? The super junction? No ECU wires should be going through this! As for shields, it shouldn’t matter if they crossover with the wire swap - shields are usually grounded so I can’t see an issue with the swap/crossover but that does seem odd. Cheers Bennie

Depends on how you go about it. I’m not into adaptor plates but know a bit about them. And if someone goes for an EJ swap, some research should be part of this decision! I guess not everyone does this bit before diving in head first. Cheers Bennie

Thanks @Numbchux I didn’t know they were made like that. Engineers over here wouldn’t approve that if the plate is alloy, steel maybe. Cheers Bennie

@91loyaleman - we didn’t get the SPFI over here. Any that are here are imported setups from the states. Cheers Bennie

Just the 5 stud hub that mounts on the stub axle. Meh, don’t need them Steptoe, Plans are in the wings for another production run of these hubs from Australia from what I’ve here. So local to us and is the key ingredient needed for the 5 stud conversion. Cheers Bennie

Did you replace the O2 sensor at the same time as replacing the cat? If not, I’d be starting there. A dead O2 sensor doesn’t always throw a code. Cheers Bennie

Rear brakes you’ll need the backing plate and the most important piece - the EA 5 stud hub. The rest can be worked out if it doesn’t directly fit - eg, WRX backing plate adapted to the EA swing arm. WRX dump pipe should fit no worries - one way to find out since you have the dump already. Cheers Bennie

You need to have two bolts welded together so there offset. Screw one end into the engine, slide the adaptor plate in place then fit the gearbox. You should have enough meat on the lower studs to leave them as is. I’m surprised your adaptor plate doesn’t come with the required bolts. My mate makes them over here and he supplies modified bolts welded by a certified welder (which is required for engineering certification). Cheers Bennie

Wow you guys really beat on the manual boxes! They’re not bad at all IF the driver knows how to drive manual! If you want to know a bad box, try the Brat 4 speed. I call it a highway tractor because it feels like a Massey Ferguson gearbox compared to the later 5speed but is way less reliable! Cheers Bennie

Winning! I hope it serves you well for many many miles to come! Cheers Bennie

Carb or SPFI? Cam belts installed correctly? There could be more at play here depending on what you have. Cheers Bennie

Next time it won’t start easily, try foot to the floor when starting. This tells the ECU the engine is flooded. It cuts injector pulse until engine is running. It could be part of your issue that would point to injectors leaking. As for the power loss I’m stumped on that one. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm it’s an interesting one. Glad the injectors were worth it. Have you checked the timing belt alignment? My other thought was on the valves - remove a cam cover to see if you have hla or solid (adjustable) lifters. If you have solid it could be worth checking your clearances for the valves. Cheers Bennie

If you have a Loyale with an EA82 - or in simpler terms, if the spark plug leads go to a distributor at the back of the head on the vehicle’s LHS, you need to post in the EA82 forum. If it’s carb, any Fawcett pump will do the job, no need to go overboard on the price. Any fuel rated paper filter will do the job required. If you have a SPFI or MPFI EA82 (fuel injected) then you’ll need an efi rated external pump. They’ll most likely be about $200 (over here they’re about that for a half decent unit). I wouldn’t put a filter before it as these pumps rely on fuel to cool the internals of the pump. Cheers Bennie

Fuel down the throttle body will work just the same as down the throat of a carbie. Cheers Bennie

Pitch stopper bolts - just do them up tight. I always use the arm gauge for the torque setting on those bolts. Cheers Bennie

The steering knuckle won’t like any drop in the engine crossmember. You’ll need a custom unit to allow for the engine crossmember drop. Pitch stopper rod might be ok. For a one inch drop of the engine crossmember the trans mounts will be fine. I have a three inch lift kit with only a two inch setup on the gearbox crossmember. Been like this for ten years no problems. Cheers Bennie

To clean them properly you’ll need an ultrasonic cleaner - after that I don’t know what the process is in terms of full submersion or not etc. The seals are to stop air leaks into the intake manifold, not fuel leaking from the injector, at least not at the intake end. If you have a dud seal on your fuel rail you’d know about that already. Clean up the area around the injectors before pulling them out. It’ll help with removing them and stop crud getting in where you don’t want it. Cheers Bennie

Awesome, glad you found the work around. You could have your current injectors cleaned and serviced. It could be cheaper than serviced second hand replacement units. Cheers Bennie

I can’t see any blocks for the rear suspension K frame. Unless their setup doesn’t drop the K frame, rather it swings the rear wheels down and literally under the back seat base. The steering extension is quite important! Cheers Bennie

I think he’s referring to the Y pipe where the exhaust joint is under the gearbox and facing the RHS of the vehicle. As opposed to the earlier and longer UEL Y pipe that ends facing backwards well down the side of the gearbox. Cheers Bennie

That water pump difference is for the V belt and the flat ribbed belt. And the caliper piston is probably an early EJ unit. I’m not sure about the XT6 front calipers, as I’ve never seen a set, but if the handbrake is on the rear of the XT6, you might have that front caliper piston type. Cheers Bennie

^ that’s a phase 1 DOHC setup. The DOHC phase 2 has that little pulley between the tensioner and the LHS inlet cam wheel. I believe it stops belt flap. Cheers Bennie

That filter should be on the other side of the pump. It’s a high pressure filter. I’m not sure what you should run pre-pump if anything. I don’t have a filter before the efi pump other than the little mesh unit on the inlet side of the pump. You will have fuel siphon from the tank at just about any fuel level, pressure will be different with tank level. Just be ready for it with a bung in the line from the tank. Cheers Bennie