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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. el_freddo
    Amen to that (and not having an EA82 in general!). Cheers Bennie
  2. el_freddo
    You might also find your exhaust will foul the engine crossmember without those spacer plates fitted. Cheers Bennie
  3. el_freddo
    They could be tucked up high or possibly taped to the wiring loom. You have to get right in there, it’s not obvious until you know where to look for them. Cheers Bennie
  4. el_freddo
    It could be the three cam wheel retainer bolts are too loose. I had this one time and those three holes ovalled out in no time flat! Hopefully the bolts are ok and not damaged. Cheers Bennie
  5. el_freddo
    That link wasn’t in there when GD posted. I read it shortly after GD read and replied. The link was added with the edit recently. Cheers Bennie
  6. el_freddo
    Good info @wtdash! The only way to get a phase 1 block to play with phase 2 engine management is to swap to phase 2 heads on the phase 1 block - and vice versa if using a phase 2 block in a phase 1 engine managed vehicle. I reckon you should wait until this engine arrives, then take some pics and post up here. As wtdash said, there are markings to decipher a closed deck block - and they seem to be share with the EJ22T and EJ20G I’m hoping you got what you paid for in terms of the closed deck block. Cheers Bennie
  7. el_freddo
    Rear diff to be sure you got the matching rear ratio to the gearbox. Drive shafts will be the same in the rear. Prop/tail shaft (I can’t remember, but do suspect they’re a different length). Clutch would be good too unless you’re getting a new unit. If the donor is MPFI (did the US get MPFI?) get the driveshafts too as these will have 25 splines on the diff output stub axles. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie
  8. el_freddo
    Well this slows things down Not happy Jan... Bennie.
  9. el_freddo
    Every time you check a cylinder for valve lash, best practice is to rotate the engine until that cylinder is at top dead centre. This ensures the cam follower is not being acted upon by the cam lobe. To me it sounds like you had cylinder 3 at or near TDC, sorted it properly then immediately went to cylinder 1 to do the same, but the exhaust valves are under tension from the cam lobe acting upon them. Re-read the procedure and try again. Cheers Bennie
  10. el_freddo
    If it’s a ‘93 EJ22 from Japan it’s probably either a bogus advert, or the NA EJ22. The JDM market got the EJ20G turbo DOHC engine with closed deck block. It was only America that had the SOHC EJ22 turbo with the closed deck block. I don’t know of any external markings on the case to say that it’s a closed deck EJ22. The first series EJ20G has casing marks in various places (under alternator and on the buldge where the starter motor sits behind the engine bellhousing case - and inside the bell housing area behind the flywheel). The markings are a series of lines about 3’m apart from memory. The back of the RHS head should be the oil and coolant ports to the turbo. I’ve not seen them on the SOHC because Oz. Or if the heads are off it’s pretty obvious if it’s a closed deck block Cheers Bennie
  11. el_freddo
    Hmmm... this is a good question. They’re both well suited to sand work in my opinion - tyre sizes and widths will play a big part in capability. The H6 with a large trans cooler would probably be more reliable overall. Look into whether the auto has VDT or the old clutch pack centre. I can’t remember which is best and I’m not 100% sure which one can have the diff lock switch mod done to. I love my L series for all sorts of off-roading including sand. It’s an EJ22 with the L series AWD dual range box that has the locking centre diff. Three inch lift and 27 inch tyres. One of the biggest problems I’ve had is keeping the engine cool - it’s a long term ongoing issue for this vehicle. Only a problem in sand working really hard. Around town and on the highway no issues with cooling. The outback will definitely have better parts availability across the board compared to the L series. The outback will be more comfortable out of the box. If you love to tinker and like the older shape, go the L series. L series will have a bigger boot/cargo area than the outback. At the end of the day it’s your call, I think both would be as good as the other in performance once the outback gets more lift. Cheers Bennie
  12. el_freddo
    Aftermarket management might be easier at this point. Or go through the heartache of repinning and adding to a NA loom of the same era. You will need those wiring pin out diagrams to do this though! Cheers Bennie
  13. el_freddo
    Diff issues are a red herring in this issue. Those cracked bushes will allow the diff to rotate under load, this will be added slack in the drivetrain. The wheels and tyres are held in place by the suspension arms, struts and bushes in the system. Something in there must be amiss for the tyre wear issue you’re seeing. Going by those diff bushes, there will be other very well worn bushes throughout the whole suspension system on your tribeca. Pretty common for older vehicles to have issues like this. Cheers Bennie
  14. el_freddo
    Thanks mate. Seems I’ve opened a real can of worms on this one. Seems I need to pull one piston from the GT block (EJ205?) and take some measurements from centre of the gudgeon/wrist pin to the top of the piston and compare to what I have - unless you happen to have one of these pistons out already and can grab a measurement for me when you have five mins to scratch yourself? Thanks for all your help and insight on this one. Cheers Bennie
  15. el_freddo
    I too looked into this. But that pressed fitting would never be the same if you tampered with it. Interestingly, from what I remember of modifying the odometer reading on a six gauge long cluster (only so it read the same as the factory cluster it was being converted from), you can remove all these bits. So I don’t know why they changed the setup from one to the other, it makes sense to share the same bits between models - but then again, it was the 80’s! Cheers Bennie
  16. el_freddo
    Awww... no pics?? Bennie
  17. el_freddo
    I’d say suspension or rear alignment issues. I doubt the diff would do it unless it’s welded. Cheers Bennie
  18. el_freddo
    It’s the first wrx version of the EJ20 turbo, or EJ20G. The Gen1 Liberty/Legacy had a different piston again and DOHC heads that were more inline with the NA EJ22E - they even shared the same hydraulic lash adjusters and cam followers which is why many had the heads and pistons swapped under warranty due to lifter tick - I believe the exhaust lifters bleed out as things cooled down as they’re upside down in orientation. Or poor oil change routine was the issue. Now I’m hoping the rod length is the same. This game keeps getting better and better The learning curve is steep and unanticipated! Thanks GD! I’m also guessing the phase two DOHC has a different cam belt length too. Time to go count some teeth... Cheers Bennie
  19. el_freddo
    Ok, I’m now at the point of “bugger it” swap the pistons. Put fresh rings in too. I have an A B A B block and have a set of pistons that are the same and correctly orientated - a left side A & B and a right side A & B piston sets as per the block markings. Will speak with the engine shop on Tuesday (most likely) to see what they reckon. I might even get them to put the pistons in if the price is good. Cheers Bennie PS - glad I go all reactive then think about it, you can see this process in this thread where I basically talk to myself. Still happy to hear suggestions/experience with this/other ideas on the topic.
  20. el_freddo
    I should add that I have hydraulic buckets, I’m thinking that the total lift of the valves may not be achieved with just turning over by had as I won’t have full oil pressure. Thoughts? I don’t have any plasticine or the like to squish and see how close things get. Cheers Bennie
  21. el_freddo
    Pic not working for me. Only thing I can think of is the bearing or hub is not fully seated, or the seal is in the way of the drive shaft. Cheers Bennie
  22. el_freddo
    Ok, need some help here, hoping someone can help out (@GeneralDisorder?) First GT forester series 2 (2002) head is off. Piston is noticeably different - GT on the left, EJ20G/whatever it is on the right. This EJ20G/x piston is what came with the heads I’ll be running with. I’m now worried the valves might hit the pistons. I’m hoping I can put one head on (not fully torqued down and thinking without the gasket too), refit the timing gear and rotate the engine to find out if the valves will kiss the piston. Also to note, the GT had thin MLS head gaskets, the HG units I got ages ago in prep for this build are thicker composite gaskets (OEM). I really don’t want to swap pistons on this thing! Here’s hoping! Some background info on the build: this will be going into my Gen1 RS turbo. The heads match the intake bolt pattern and the intake equipment matches the engine management system, hence the head swap onto a known good block. And no, I don’t want to run later model management or run aftermarket management, please leave comments like that to yourself thanks! Cheers Bennie
  23. el_freddo
    ^ that is an awesome way to live! I was going to ask if you can swap dizzy internals to avoid the need of the resistor, but that still requires getting parts. The EA82 had an electronic ignition module in it instead of the old points system. Very reliable until a coil dies, or it slowly dies. Got any pics of your setup? Cheers Bennie
  24. el_freddo
    Where the bloody hell did that come from?! Very random. I’m glad you got onto it early. Cheers Bennie
  25. el_freddo
    Looks like an awesome project! The single port injection from the Pontiac is an interesting way to go about it. And was that a snapped bolt in the cylinder? That’d be annoying to say the least! Cheers Bennie
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