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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. At 85,000m, I’d expect factory suspension to still be good unless you operate on rutted and rough roads regularly. Cheers Bennie
  2. Go the EJ conversion. Done to death and the engine fits easily with an adaptor plate. The only things EA82 that should make it into your hatch is the five speed box and a set of rear discs if you can find some that are suitable for your application (2wd or 4wd - different hubs are used between the two). Cheers Bennie
  3. Sounds like too much stuffing around. If you have the SG it’s a better vehicle I reckon! Cheers Bennie
  4. Especially since you have a spare vehicle for parts etc. learn how to read the codes from the ECU - it might just TELL you what it needs. Also check your cam belts are intact and properly aligned. One cam should be at 12 o’clock and the other at 6 o’clock when the crank is at either of these positions. @Step-a-toe - here’s the link, but all photofucket photos are no longer available https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=24721 Cheers Bennie
  5. Thanks for that @Steptoe I guess I’ll be applying some sealant to my windscreen when the weather dries out! It’s not leaking but it would be best to have what the factory says to have! Cheers Bennie
  6. Really? I’ve only ever fitted them dry, no issues. Cheers Bennie
  7. Steering wheel is on the wrong side. It’s not right! Seriously though, a very tidy unit. Those headlight guards are very JDM! So are you making a purchase?? Cheers Bennie
  8. Just as Bollo says in the Mighty Boosh all the time. I hope it’s not that dire! Cheers Bennie
  9. Looks like you’ve got the most common issues covered. I’d start with the vacuum modulator, but really my gut feeling is that the auto might be toast - with that said I have very little experience with autos so cover all bases if you can before calling it quits on it. Someone in the know will tell you more though. And this is the forum to be on for this sort of help! Cheers Bennie
  10. Using a very sharp blade, cut the rubber away from the inside as close to the metal as you can. Gently push the windscreen out. Remove the windscreen from the rest of the rubber then *carefully* remove the plastic chromed strips for use in the new rubber seal. Cheers Bennie
  11. @andrsn Gen1 and Gen2 have only one O2 sensor. It’s located between the two exhaust pipes coming into the cat converter. Cheers Bennie
  12. ATF does not do the front diff. There’s a separate dipstick for the diff and it uses regular diff oil. If you have an issue there it’s usually a speed related noise. Cheers Bennie
  13. Replace the slave cylinders while you’re there. They tend to leak when they’re this old. Cheers Bennie
  14. I’d be diving in. But that’s me... Cheers Bennie
  15. The answer you don’t want to hear is no, they’re not interchangeable unless you’re stepping from EFI turbo to NA carb. You need the heads with the injector boss in them. When they said a head was bad, what did they mean exactly? Blown HG?? If it were me in your position, and I had the space to store it while pulling the engine down (and the mechanical knowledge to do it) and the desire to have a unique Sunday cruiser, I’d go for it, even more so if the body is rust free - that’s the bad part to get! A replacement head could be sourced. I might take some time but you’ll find what you need eventually. Cheers Bennie
  16. That’s a band aid. Won’t last for long and will no doubt result in a larger crack around the welded section. Cheers Bennie
  17. The turbo AWD units were. There were also base models. We were so ripped off not getting these in Oz! I think we need more details on the vehicle. My thoughts started out as an MY hatch but then wondered if it is an L series coupe once efi was mentioned. Or is it a SPFI concerted EA81 MY hatch?? Lets get those sorted first then go from there Cheers Bennie
  18. Further to what Steptoe says above, ensure a decent cool down before shutting off the engine. You want those heads to be as cool as possible to avoid any cracking. To me, it looks like a small imperfection in the casting. In the exhaust port you can see the cast seam coming down the port to the middle of the divider. Cheers Bennie
  19. That’s so awesome! Targa top too. Good choice! Keep it tidy and don’t go over modding it so it’s ruined Here’s mine. It’ll get an EJ and an AWD box to go with it. All reversible. ^ the white brumby is my mother inlaw’s, she had it on the road for about 12 years. It’s now sitting and waiting for club rego so it can still be driven semi regularly. I hope your son learns to drive them properly. Ringing their neck every day because they’re slow will only kill them. Cheers Bennie
  20. If you’ve got a parts car why not transfer the whole body lift and add a strut lift for a bit of extra clearance? Also, you’d have the required part numbers on those struts. Add some new king springs and you’ll be apples. Cheers Bennie
  21. Check all the main fuses under the bonnet in the engine bay. Replace as needed. Check main power wires to fuse box, could be worth checking wiring from fuse box too. It could be fried/burnt before main fuse popped. Check your battery condition. Alternator is probably fried, especially if an attempt was made to crank the engine. ECU could be dead, maybe... Start from the battery and work into the wiring from there. Also examine the main wire on the positive side of the battery. It could be toast too. All the best with it. I don’t envy your position Bennie
  22. The tool I use is a 14mm hex on a socket. So I lean on my breaker bar and give it a good shove to crack it free. Fair call on the rebuild. When you were talking bearings I thought your plans had changed! Cheers Bennie
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