el_freddo

Thanks mate. Seems I’ve opened a real can of worms on this one. Seems I need to pull one piston from the GT block (EJ205?) and take some measurements from centre of the gudgeon/wrist pin to the top of the piston and compare to what I have - unless you happen to have one of these pistons out already and can grab a measurement for me when you have five mins to scratch yourself? Thanks for all your help and insight on this one. Cheers Bennie

I too looked into this. But that pressed fitting would never be the same if you tampered with it. Interestingly, from what I remember of modifying the odometer reading on a six gauge long cluster (only so it read the same as the factory cluster it was being converted from), you can remove all these bits. So I don’t know why they changed the setup from one to the other, it makes sense to share the same bits between models - but then again, it was the 80’s! Cheers Bennie

Awww... no pics?? Bennie

I’d say suspension or rear alignment issues. I doubt the diff would do it unless it’s welded. Cheers Bennie

It’s the first wrx version of the EJ20 turbo, or EJ20G. The Gen1 Liberty/Legacy had a different piston again and DOHC heads that were more inline with the NA EJ22E - they even shared the same hydraulic lash adjusters and cam followers which is why many had the heads and pistons swapped under warranty due to lifter tick - I believe the exhaust lifters bleed out as things cooled down as they’re upside down in orientation. Or poor oil change routine was the issue. Now I’m hoping the rod length is the same. This game keeps getting better and better The learning curve is steep and unanticipated! Thanks GD! I’m also guessing the phase two DOHC has a different cam belt length too. Time to go count some teeth... Cheers Bennie

Ok, I’m now at the point of “bugger it” swap the pistons. Put fresh rings in too. I have an A B A B block and have a set of pistons that are the same and correctly orientated - a left side A & B and a right side A & B piston sets as per the block markings. Will speak with the engine shop on Tuesday (most likely) to see what they reckon. I might even get them to put the pistons in if the price is good. Cheers Bennie PS - glad I go all reactive then think about it, you can see this process in this thread where I basically talk to myself. Still happy to hear suggestions/experience with this/other ideas on the topic.

I should add that I have hydraulic buckets, I’m thinking that the total lift of the valves may not be achieved with just turning over by had as I won’t have full oil pressure. Thoughts? I don’t have any plasticine or the like to squish and see how close things get. Cheers Bennie

Pic not working for me. Only thing I can think of is the bearing or hub is not fully seated, or the seal is in the way of the drive shaft. Cheers Bennie

Ok, need some help here, hoping someone can help out (@GeneralDisorder?) First GT forester series 2 (2002) head is off. Piston is noticeably different - GT on the left, EJ20G/whatever it is on the right. This EJ20G/x piston is what came with the heads I’ll be running with. I’m now worried the valves might hit the pistons. I’m hoping I can put one head on (not fully torqued down and thinking without the gasket too), refit the timing gear and rotate the engine to find out if the valves will kiss the piston. Also to note, the GT had thin MLS head gaskets, the HG units I got ages ago in prep for this build are thicker composite gaskets (OEM). I really don’t want to swap pistons on this thing! Here’s hoping! Some background info on the build: this will be going into my Gen1 RS turbo. The heads match the intake bolt pattern and the intake equipment matches the engine management system, hence the head swap onto a known good block. And no, I don’t want to run later model management or run aftermarket management, please leave comments like that to yourself thanks! Cheers Bennie

^ that is an awesome way to live! I was going to ask if you can swap dizzy internals to avoid the need of the resistor, but that still requires getting parts. The EA82 had an electronic ignition module in it instead of the old points system. Very reliable until a coil dies, or it slowly dies. Got any pics of your setup? Cheers Bennie

Where the bloody hell did that come from?! Very random. I’m glad you got onto it early. Cheers Bennie

Looks like an awesome project! The single port injection from the Pontiac is an interesting way to go about it. And was that a snapped bolt in the cylinder? That’d be annoying to say the least! Cheers Bennie

It used to be done back in the day when it was stud and nuts - no stretching. DO NOT “retorque” the head bolts on any EJ engine. These bolts’ final tightening sequence is done by rotation in degrees, not by measured tension. Leave them alone. Either do the required work on the engine and run it or just do the cam cover seals and wait till it spooges a HG then bin the vehicle if it’s not worth anything to you. Cheers Bennie

For auto, most certainly and it’s a common issue. For manual, the gearbox shares oil with the front diff. Cheers Bennie

Same in AUDM. The series one L (85-mid 87 in AUDM) has DOJ on inner and outer for the rear shafts, the series two L (mid 87-94) had only the inner joint with the DOJ arrangement. I’m 99% sure these are interchangeable on the L series. Cheers Bennie

Direct bolt in. Dual range lever is needed and rear diff must match as mentioned already. Cheers Bennie

@Geoff F - what marks did you use for each cam? Cheers Bennie

That stuff is known to block up radiators! Cheers Bennie

Someone recently posted a link to MY/EA81 rear shafts. Can’t remember where I saw it though. Cheers Bennie

It won’t be a throw out bearing. More likely either third gear is worn out. Cheers Bennie

@Monacle-Pete - and use factory MLS HGs. Cheers Bennie

Good! I doubt the auto would be up to an EJ. You’ll love the EJ with the manual. Watch out in wet weather when putting the pedal down! Cheers Bennie

Would this be the correct part number for the STi oil pump? 15010AA360 Cheers Bennie

If it’s the EA81 turbo then no. You need the 4wd Leone from ‘85 onwards. 4wd/AWD coupes will also work basically anything 4wd L series/Leone from ‘85-94 Cheers Bennie

Nice. When mine gave up I resoldered several of the factory solder joints and it’s good as gold. Pulling it out and refitting it took longer than the fix once the iron was hot! Cheers Bennie