el_freddo

Get onto that windscreen rust! It’s the worst and will be x10 worse than what you can see with the windscreen in place! Cheers Bennie

The mark on the crank cam gear is what you align the timing belt setup with, not the TDC mark on the crank pulley. If you’ve put the cam belt on using the TDC mark on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer, the engine will not run. That arrow is really handy for indicating which cylinder is on the firing stroke. Check out your cam timing and ensure the cam wheels/gears line up properly with the clogged belt gear mark on the crank. Cheers Bennie

Or be a bush mechanic and get a flat head screwdriver and wedge between the cam and cam follower, then lever from there... does the valve compress any when the engine is rotated? Cheers Bennie

Sorry, I must have confused the BRAT stuff. Its been a good decade since converting the L to power steering and I thought I recalled needing a different knuckle setup to mate the rack to the column. Everything else was a direct bolt in. Cheers Bennie

Hey TCR, you need the next subforum along - the EA81 and EA82 forum for brats, Leone’s etc. Being that you’re in Oz, have you tried Ausubaru.com.au ? Actually it’s pretty quite over that way, you’ll get more exposure here, still, join up and share your ride’s details Cheers Bennie

Welcome Fmxr! Sounds like a fun project! What engine management will you be running? And turbo exhaust manifold - got over from the back of the engine crossmember or doing a cut and shut on the crossmember with the factory turbo exhaust manifold? Cheers Bennie

Love the L! So clean. Cheers Bennie

Welcome Eriksund! Cheers Bennie

Have you swapped tyres? Sounds like one of them might have a flat spot. Cheers Bennie

This will sound crazy, but have you tried pulling or pushing on the valve to see if you can free it up? Cheers Bennie

I reckon on dirt you’re better with power steering - gives you better reaction time through less effort required to turn the steering wheel. If you can’t get the steering knuckle setup with the rack you’re best off to steer clear in my book. Cheers Bennie

12v relay setup should see that issue sorted. Common on the Gen1 Liberty/Legacy’s too. Cheers Bennie

If you have metal end tanks they’ll be aftermarket or custom. Metal end tanks were left with the MY/BRAT models. Everything since is plastic tanks with alloy core. Cheers Bennie

I didn’t think this could be done. So I’ll be keen to know if you can interchange like this. Cheers Bennie

Std = short hand for standard. The rad shop won’t be able to “add” the second row of channels. They might be able to replace the core with a dual core and re-use the end tanks, but with them being plastic and so old, I’d have them make up metal end tanks. Cheers Bennie

@SiriusBlack - you dug very deep for this thread! I’m 99% sure that the Leone radiator will not properly fit in the XT. Someone will know though. Cheers Bennie

$40USD a good price? I’d imagine it would cost more over here but that would be relative to cost of living vs wages etc. Cheers Bennie

To send bits for this OS, you’d need the EJ phase one gearbox’s internals - minus the centre diff housing, pinion shaft and front diff. Typically you move the selection forks with the gearsets. The EJ low range can be left behind - the PT4wd L series 1.59:1 low range can be fitted with a few mods - namely the low range hub that sits on the front of the upper gearset. Input bearing mods won’t be required as the L series one will be kept. In essence, the phase 1 (4 bolt gearbox) drive gears and reverse is what needs to be sent if using a dual range EA front case set. Heavy, but not as bulky as a gearbox or a gearbox minus the rear cases/housings (centre diff and rear transfer). Break a gear and you’re back to square one. Cheers Bennie

Rafael, They are rebuildable! I can’t find the part numbers for the seals but I know I’ve seen them at some point in time on a forum... I’d like to redo mine too Hopefully someone will have those part numbers Cheers Bennie

No. You need an EJ AWD dual range to do this. The PT4wd dual range has a pinion shaft where the lower gears mount to the shaft. The AWD locking centre box is the design prior to the EJ AWD box and uses the same lower gearset setup where they’re mounted on a tube that the pinion shaft lives in. The EA AWD pinion shaft is much much longer than the EJ pinion shaft. The catch in the US is the lack of EJ dual range boxes available thanks to your taxation system effectively phasing them out in the EJ series vehicles (from what I understand). In Oz and other markets the dual range box was produced for another decade and a bit. I’m not up with when/if they canned it in the later models. In my L series I have the locking centre diff in a “bitza box” - phase two EJ dual range cases with matching drive gears (these don’t fit in a phase 1 box without mods rocks the reverse gears), L series 1.59:1 low range, custom 4.111:1 diff ratio on the locking centre diff pinion shaft. I’ve added oil “feeders” over the low range gears to help keep them cool and to lubricate them on hill climbs. It can be done, but you need that dual range EJ gearset from the phase 1 box, these are interchangeable into the EA cases. Cheers Bennie

That is one dodgy looking AC add on! Ours over here had the AC then Alt going out from the crank. I reckon you need the standard water pump and alt belt. Going for the “stock” water pump and Alt with AC will be far too long. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

JDM GT wagon had auto antenna. Not likely that you have one of these but it is something that exists on the L body Cheers Bennie

I run without the trim pieces on my L. Works a treat, I don’t miss the trim pieces but I still have them. Cheers Bennie

Also if the belts were done, or you did them, verify that when the crank mark is aligned that one can is at 12 o’clock and the other is a 6 o’clock. It doesn’t matter which is which, it just matter that both cams are 180* apart. And as Dave said for the fuel pump issue. In Australia our test connectors (green and black) are located above the driver’s feet behind the kick panel. Cheers Bennie

No, he’s saying that with the intake in place the bolts seem to bottom out before any torque is applied to clamp the intake manifold to the head. Cheers Bennie