el_freddo

The rear struts won’t fit the Gen3, the rear end setup was changed on the Gen3 to a spring on shock setup. If you can, go the RX 2.5 litre version of this model, goes ace! The Gen3 runs a phase 2 engine, the EJ22 is a phase1 engine. You could swap the phase 2 heads onto the EJ22 and run the 22 that way. I reckon the Gen 1 and Gen 3 platforms are the best that Subaru produced in the Liberty/Legacy’s. That said, I haven’t ventured much beyond the Gen3... One thing to look out for is leaking HGs - typically seen on the LHS of the engine, the leak is oil externally from the no pressure oil return galleries. Replace with MLS genuine head gaskets Cheers Bennie

Clutch will fit any NA Subaru EJ equipped vehicle. In my L series I’m running a Gen1 EJ22 with Gen1 flywheel, excedy clutch kit running a slightly modified phase two forester gearbox. My sister’s Gen3 RX Liberty with EJ251 is running a Gen2 EJ22 solid flywheel with the stock Gen3 clutch setup. It’s all lego! Cheers Bennie

Holy spoob, I wasn’t expecting them to be ripping off genuine parts! Mind you, I buy genuine parts online - only from partsouq though. They’ve not been an issue with any of my dealings with them. Cheers Bennie

EJ207 is the WRX sti engine. Very strong engine from what I’ve read. Good for future mods if the stock tune isn’t enough With your intended goals with the manual and the EJ207, you’d be doing well to have this completed for $15,000 I reckon. The 207 isn’t cheap - it’s one of the most sought after performance engines in the Subaru world. You would be best off buying a damaged WRX or one that’s not on the road etc to drop into your Outback. There will be wiring to do, you’ll need the WRX security gear to make the loom work. NA and turbo gearboxes are different - and they use a different clutch system from each other too. You don’t want to be trying to put a turbo gearbox in with the NA clutch arrangement or vice versa. Engine wise from the clutch back it doesn’t matter if you have the NA or the turbo engine powering the gearbox, either will bolt up. Find a suitable donor that still has a serviceable drivetrain - this will have everything you need except the manual interior trims for the outback and possibly the tailshaft, gear selectors and manual gearbox crossmember which all *could* be outback specific. Good luck with finding a “cheap” donor vehicle. They get parted out for a reason. Now wait for GD to jump on with the “don’t do it” message! As for your current transmission situation, replace with a known good unit and look after it. Cheers Bennie

Stevo, it’s steering wheel off for a clock spring swap Cheers Bennie

Thanks Kiwi brumby. I’ve got a 3/4inch drive breaker bar that I jump on good and proper, this was done twice now (second time to check the concave washer was installed correctly). So I’ve not given this a second thought. Cheers Bennie

I wouldn’t do that. Jonno (Steptoe) and I go way back on forums, I get his humour. The drive yesterday was a bust. It actually rained all morning very lightly - just enough to need wipers constantly and not be able to hear noises due to the water spray off the road. Thinking along the lines of brake pads, I reckon it could be a shim that’s just touching the disc at one point. I’ll get around to pulling that wheel off at some stage and checking out the brake setup. Then I’ll report back. That could be up to two weeks time. Busy busy, brumby not in high use atm. Cheers Bennie

Thanks Jeezek, I’ve never come across it referred to like that. Always before TDC is what I’ve heard. Cheers Bennie

Why bother? Front bearings replaced already, rears wouldn’t be far off if they’re factory fitted. Money better spent on labour replacing the bearing if not going the DIY route. My first thought was a bearing before looking at the video or reading GD’s post. All the best with it - I’d replace both rear bearings to a) know the history of both rear bearings and b) potentially save a second trip to the mechanics and further down time on the vehicle. But I’m a DIYer so it’s your call (I’d do both regardless of one being replaced or not). Cheers Bennie

Excuse my ignorance, but what’s “b”?? Cheers Bennie

Cool project on that hobby machinist forum! And I love your collection of tools. Keep up the good work. Cheers Bennie

I totally didn’t know this was a thing! Mind you, why would you want to buy spark plugs online? They’re reasonably priced in store and it’s much more convenient than buying online!! Anyone actually been caught out that are willing to share? Cheers Bennie

Yeah it’s an interesting one. It doesn’t sound like brakes, too high pitched. I’ll have a good listen this morning as I’m going for a decent drive now so plenty of listening time... Cheers Bennie

Since completing new bearings and shafts on the front end I’ve got a squeak that seems to come from the front left. It is definitely rotational dependant and it comes/goes when there’s side load on the wheel. I initially thought it was the washer being fitted backwards. So I’ve rotated it and no change. I want this issue to be sorted! Any ideas or solutions welcome! Cheers Bennie

To be clear, the EA81 does not have a cam belt not available in the L series. More modern fuel injected Subaru engines are a very worth while conversion and can get around many of the NLA parts for the engine side of things. Most common is probably still the EJ22 conversion from the Gen1 and Gen2 Legacy’s. Cheers Bennie

Have you adjusted the spark timing? You’ll need a timing light to do this. Cheers Bennie

I too did this after my initial rebuild of the EA82. Money that would’ve been best spent on an EJ conversion. If you ever rebuild an engine and don’t know the history of the radiator with plastic end tanks - replace it!! My dodgy old radiator cost me a 9 month old rebuilt engine Cheers Bennie

It will bolt in and work regardless of what EJ engine is used. If the final drive ratio is the same, you won’t have any drive issues. It will rev higher in fifth though. Your speedo may not be accurate, you’ll have to suck it and see - the speedo drive gear may be different and thus give a different speedo output signal rate. A speedo corrector may be needed. Cheers Bennie

That above your oil filter with the pipe coming from it is an oil cooler. The pipes have coolant in them. I’ve only ever seen them on H4 turbos or the H6 NA. I’ve not seen them on H4 NAs before - unless this is a turbo equipped vehicle. Cheers Bennie

Side question - why does your NA EJ25 have an oil cooler? I thought these were turbo and H6 models only? And thanks for the link GD. I found the darker writing a little difficult to read but it reads well! I too made the mistake of using the VIN listed HGs on my sister’s Gen3 and it ended exactly as you say I does. That engine copped a 100,000km head gasket swap to the 642 units, it also had all the usual maintenance items done too. You don’t mention replacing rings while the HGs are being done, not always done? Cheers Bennie

GD has the multi layer steel head gasket part numbers etched in his brain. These will be the items you want to use for the replacement headgaskets. I’m in the middle of the same thing now. Picked up a $300 SG Foz with 370,000km on the clock, engine leaking oil like a sieve and a rear strut that wasn’t happy at all. Should be a good car once the work is done. It’ll be the same with yours. I also opted to swap valve stem seals and lap the valves. I’m hesitant to swap rings on an engine that isn’t mine since it would be the first time I’ve done it and I’m not completely up on that process of ring gaps etc. Cheers Bennie

Great way to start the new decade! What an update. Can’t wait for some pics or a video of it running. I’m still loving those flares, so 70’s but still tight and fresh! Cheers Bennie

The clutch disc could have disentgrated. I did that on my EJ22 powered L series running a factory clutch setup... there were 19 pieces and one bit I couldn’t find so who knows where that went! It locked up first, then I drove it another ~350km by rev matching and starting it in gear when needing to do a standing start. If you need to get the box out, leave the engine in place unless you have other things to do to it like HGs. Drop the box from under the vehicle, much easier. Using a motorcycle jack helps. Driveshafts can be removed as the gearbox is dropped out slowly (and installed as the gearbox is lifted back in - time saver!). If box comes out, it’s a good time to assess and reboot the front driveshafts if need be. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... from your description it could be any of those three things. Usually if you kill a gearbox you typically have other gears to use, even if it sounds like a factory of angry leprechauns with hammers in there. Cheers Bennie

What do your outer CV joints look like? I hope the new year brings you some good news! Happy new year to all. See you in 2020 very soon (I realise you guys have to wait half a day for it though, worse than Radelaide, they’re half an hr behind but it seems like more than that Cheers Bennie