el_freddo

Yep. One access port behind the flywheel is held in with some countersunk Phillips head bolts. The best way to get these out is with an impact driver. Cheers Bennie

Hey Jeszek, I haven’t read this thread before now. Awesome story with the car. Same head gasket?? Like ccrinc, it was sad to read you were about to embark on a real milestone drive with your father but then he unexpectedly passed away. While you may feel empty and sad that he’s not there, remember all the good times you shared together with him and as a family travelling around in the car. We have a kind of similar story in terms of age of ownership of a vehicle - it’s a 1929 Chevrolet six cylinder tourer. Dad built it with his brother in their late teens. It’s been registered ever since and would be on 50 years of continual registration since the late 60’s or the early 70’s. We’re currently looking for a head gasket solution for it... As for your fuse box issue, do you have a solution yet? Got any pics of the fuse panel with some dimensions? Cheers Bennie

I like your style @turboguzzi Cheers Bennie

EA81 turbo fuel tank will certainly have the internal baffles. Your ingredients for your build have been done time and time again (MY body, EJ22, EA82 5speed box). The trick in your build will be choosing a lift and tyre size that isn’t too tall (tyres mainly), then doing the wiring right as Numbchux mentioned. Cheers Bennie

Same windscreen as the ‘84 GL. Can you get the one you found shipped? We can still get them new in Australia. O’Briens glass replaced mine last year. If the one is through a glass company, see if they can ship it and fit it! Cheers Bennie

If you have a tin plate you might be able to do it. If you have the cast alloy plate, you’ll need the countersunk screws to make it all work with flywheel clearances etc. Cheers Bennie

Nah he’s still building it between work and uni if he hasn’t graduated already from what I know. The body work is a master piece in the flesh. Photos just don’t do it justice! Cheers Bennie

Silverbullet has it done ages ago. Scroll down to the pic of the twins on the engine with the dirty alternator and you’ll see his trigger wheel on the crank pulley and the sensor mounted off the old dizzy hole using a plate. https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=25427&start=165 there might be details of this setup earlier in the thread that I may have missed. Cheers Bennie

So it was a fuse issue? They’re the best ones to have when they’re not reoccurring on a regular basis! Cheers Bennie

Probably a bearing issue. Does it ever slip out of gear when crushing? Is there a gear that’s hard to get into? Was the oil dirty looking? And how much came out roughly? Loads of oil can remain in the gearbox after it’s drained. My guess is that it’s an upper shaft bearing. The wa-wa-wa noise you’re hearing could be the bearing rotating or a particular gear rotating. I’m guessing it changes with revs too. This to me points to a bearing issue for sure. That piece you found looks to be cast. The only things I can think that are cast inside the gearbox is the front diff (open), lower shaft rear bearing plate, the gear selector shaft, selector fork shafts and possibly the centre diff. Still, I can’t pin point exactly where it came from. Replacement box is probably best for least amount of downtime on the vehicle. Splitting the box has the most educational value And don’t worry, if you can work on everything motorcycle, you’ll be right with the “big” (but small by comparison to other) gearboxes! Cheers Bennie

So how many car spaces did you have before you realised you needed to stop? Cheers Bennie

Wasted?? WASTED?! Say what?? You mean you made a great decision to read all of this thread! Kudos to you, it’s pretty huge now! As for the Loyale - you’ll like the stitch welding! It really stiffens up the body of the vehicle nicely. You can also do the rally mods with the floor plates and the triangulation from the A pillar across to the strut tower inside the front guards. Have fun! Start another thread for us to “waste” more time reading about Cheers Bennie

Google EJ22. Best performance part for these vehicles! Best of luck finding those parts. By the time you’ve found and paid for them you could have an EJ22 conversion done easy! It’s the best way to deal with NLA parts - upgrade to a newer engine Cheers Bennie

Well you know how to even that out! Cheers Bennie

Waaaa-hhhaaaatttt??? That’s crazy!

Airbox to the side or airbox centred on top of the engine? If centred on top of the engine, it’s a carb. If on the RHS of the vehicle it’s EFI. Single port or multi port it doesn’t really matter. Cheers Bennie

Congrats mate! Now drive like an oldie with five car spaces between you and the car in front Cheers Bennie

Now you have adjustable cam timing! Cheers Bennie

Uni joint on the tail shaft. Check them for play. Also inspect you engine/gearbox mounts. Cheers Bennie

Wheel alignment for all four wheels will also play a part in how grounded/grippy the car feels on the road too. Cheers Bennie

If the cam wheels are metal there’s no need to replace them. Check to ensure the oil leak isn’t from the head gaskets. I’m not sure that this is an EJ25D issue, just an EJ251 issue. Welcome to the forum! Cheers Bennie

Just a flesh wound, she’ll be right! (The legacy). Glad to see the coupe coming along. Looks like a top job done on the repair work. Cheers Bennie

Sounds painful mate! Cheers Bennie

If unsure of diff ratio (there’s usually a sticker on the back of the rear diff on these older Subaru’s), swap in the rear diff from the donor car. It will bolt in no worries. Drive shafts - use the MY units front and rear. I thought you’d have more EJ conversion questions than what you didn’t have there Cheers Bennie

Front doors backwards is different. Centre console swaps over too. Great for parts. PS and AC will swap in. Cheers Bennie