el_freddo

Check the wiring connector beside the engine where that wire has a sliding joint in it (effectively). I had issues with my temp gauge working and not working. It was an issue at this connector. Some wiring plug pin outs differ for different years, if the engine was a swap in drop, the wire at the plug could be in a different location to its mate. But with ~60k on the clock, I’d doubt its had an engine change, unless there was some catastrophic issue earlier in its life. Cheers Bennie

Pin C13 blue/green trace with a single silver dot. Other plug (green) is black/red with a single silver dot - goes to earth essentially. I hope that helps! Do you have a check engine light? B19 Red/Yellow or Red/Green wire. Other side of the light needs to be powered as the ECU earth switches to illuminate the light Cheers Bennie

Steptoe, by swapping the intake manifold it ensures you’re using the same kit to run the engine as the last one was. So the throttle position sensor and injectors move with the intake manifold. Temp sensor, cam, crank and knock sensors need to be removed and swapped while intake is off (easiest for the coolant sensor!). AFM and O2 sensors would remain usually. Th O2 sensor could be quietly faulty if it’s old or been knocked around in the swap. It’s usually a good idea to swap these if you don’t know of their history or it’s been sometime since it was swapped and you think it’s down on power. It doesn’t always throw a code! Cheers Bennie

There’s a set of test connectors, black from memory that you click together, then turn the ignition to the ON position without starting the engine. The check engine light will flash codes that you need to record. Long flash = 10, short flash = 1. Then reference any codes you have as to what they are. The ECU will list in order of where to start first, and it will loop until the ignition is off. You’ll also hear the fuel pump pulsating - on for several seconds, off for the same and so on. If there are no codes you’ll get a consistent single flash sequence that tells you the market designation of that ECU. Cheers Bennie

Check your pitch stopper rod and ensure it’s still bolted in firmly. Also check for broken engine or gearbox mounts. Cheers Bennie

In regards to sleeping length, a false floor to raise you above the folded forward seat base will give you more horizontal space but at the expense of vertical space. This can also provide some neat storage under the bed in the cargo and rear seat spaces. If you’re really handy, you could make a tent setup off the rear tailgate when it’s open - google Ute swag for ideas on that one Cheers Bennie

No for Oz. I believe they started in ‘95 and Gen1 ended in ‘94. I think they skipped on a crossover year for once but I’m not 100% sure on that! Cheers Bennie

That their engine is going to consume enough oil between changes to warrant a low level oil warning light? Cheers Bennie

Yeah sometimes I try to offer something that hasn’t been mentioned. As for the “just EJ it” comment. It has to be said from time to time. With the EJ It’s like I’ve scaled a wall to get to something better, I know how good it is and encourage others who don’t know to have a go. But many balk at the effort required to scale the wall to get to the better stuff... Generally the wall is the wiring. If you can read a diagram and realise there are many wires not needed, and many that are, you’ll be fine in cutting it down. But that’s got nothing to do with EA82 timing... Cheers Bennie

Generation change came between the Gen1 and 2 Liberty/Legacy. There will no doubt be differences in wiring and ECU between the two, but these can still run either engine configuration. The way to check is either compression test or remove a cam cover and see if the rocker arms have adjusters on them or not. If adjusters they’re solid rockers and the higher compression Gen2 engine, if no adjusters then it’s a hydraulic lash adjustment and the first gen engine with lower compression. Cheers Bennie

What, no “how big is your tank” for accurate comparison. @Raynman1989 you really need to accurately record the number of litres put into the fuel tank against the distance travelled. This will give you very accurate fuel usage records to compare. The EJ22 - what did it come from, a Gen1 or Gen2, and what was your original EJ22 from? The Gen2 EJ22 has a higher compression ratio to that of the Gen1, yet externally they both look the same. It could be a difference of compression ratio, that or you’ve got a worn engine. Also check for codes Cheers Bennie

Factory height adjustment on the front end will only raise the ride height above the stock ride height. It’s not recommended to drive with these wound all the way up on the open road. Cheers Bennie

??? When/what did I do wrong? Bennie

If it’s from a carby fed EA82, yes, it’ll be 23 spline and fit the EA81 shafts. If MPFI EA82 (fuel injected) then no, it’ll have the larger “EJ sized” 25 spline diff stubs. Cheers Bennie

FWD light would indicate that there’s a fuse installed in the holder to disable drive to the rear. This could be an issue with the solenoid that controls oil pressure to the plates that pass on the drive to the rear end (from my understanding of auto boxes). GD knows what he’s on about. Sounds like you purchased someone else’s problems All the best with it. Bennie

It’s odd atm. I’ve found the forum really slow at time - pages time out or take a full minute or two to load up. Maybe that’s because I’m on over in Oz when everyone in the US is jumping on too. All the best in your search! Cheers Bennie

There is a for sale section - go to the main page and scroll down the list of sub forums. Theres a wanted sub forum too from memory. Cheers Bennie

It wasn’t just the twin carbs that did this. Those imported engines would’ve been the EA81S - exhaust and intake ports were swapped around to the way the EA82 runs (intake valve are the inner, exhaust on the outer), so a different cam was used to facilitate this. I don’t know of any other differences in the block etc other than the cam. It could have been a mild cam spec over the regular EA81. Carbs were just part of the ingredient list for the power delivery. Cheers Bennie

Good platform to start from as a newbie. Quite a simple engine to work on except for all the vacuum hoses - mark them before removing any!! Welcome to the forum. Cheers Bennie

Yes! Someone who sounds like they’re not afraid to lightly scratch their paint with a new vehicle! Enjoy, you’ll love it! And welcome to the forum. Cheers Bennie

Oil pressure increase seen after the filter is a good thing. Between the filter and pump, any increase in oil pressure wouldn’t be seen on a gauge. So if there’s an increase in oil pressure on a physical gauge, that’s got to be a good thing. Cheers Bennie

Conduit and wire loom tape is about as good as it gets with these things. Keep it tidy from the start and it will look good. Trying to conceal it all will bring up other issues and will no doubt require extensions to the loom. This could spell trouble as GD eludes to. Cheers Bennie

Are you sure you’ve got your Before and after TDC the right way around? The Hotwire AFM MPFI needs 20deg BTDC static (green test plugs connected under the dash), this could be different for the flapper and vac advanced MPFI engine management. You might also need to connect some test connectors for dizzy timing changes. A new catalytic converter would be a good investment for smog, as would a new O2 sensor too. O2 sensors go bad and don’t always throw a code or show a CEL. Cheers Bennie

I tested this out in my sister’s Gen3 RX 2.5 manual. Pulling 1500rpm in 5th is ~50km/h, which from memory is near 40m/h. Her car pulled up from1500rpm without hesitation. It did it slowly though and I didn’t bury the foot into the floor either. You may have an issue with your legacy - any stored codes? Check your engine mounts and the pitch stopper rod for wear too. Cheers Bennie

That’s what I’d recommend. These engines don’t like high loads at low revs. 2000 rpm is the lowest you want to load the engine at. Cheers Bennie