el_freddo

Just about any external efi pump will do the job. Look for one from a V6 or something of the like and use that. They shouldn’t be much bigger if at all. I’m using an external efi pump from a ‘91 V6 Holden VN Commodore. That’s a 3.8 litre from memory so it’s got loads to deal with the 2.2L in my L series Cheers Bennie

Do not do this! The efi pump replies on fuel to cool itself - yes, there is fuel flowing through the internals of the pump’s electric motor. All EFI pumps are like this. If it’s possible to reverse the polarity and run the pump I wouldn’t do it. Pull a fuel line and blow compressed air back into the tank if you really need to - make sure the fuel cap is removed. Cheers Bennie

Check the cam timing. Both cams could be aligned exactly the same which means one is 180 degrees out of synch. The other thing to consider is open valves. Rust/grud build up could be holding several valves open enough not to let them create the required seal for the bang to make any kinetic energy in the form of engine power. Or rings are clogged up, not producing compression. Cheers Bennie

On the front top of the block near the power steering pump (from memory) you’ll find an “EA82” in the casting of the block halve. I’d look at dropping the tank and cleaning it out unless you can clean it out/dilute the stale fuel in there to get it running. You might need a new efi pump, if you’re lucky it’ll fire up with the current pump. I’d cycle the pump a number of times to flush the fuel lines before cranking it over. The fuel pump primes for several seconds when you first turn the ignition on and when the test connectors are connected together (engine off ignition on). Cheers Bennie

What transmission do you want to put in and why? The L series 5 speed gearbox is the most common conversion and does not require an adaptor plate when using the EA81 engine. Cheers Bennie

If they’re both SF body shapes then it can be done. If the turbo is SF and the other is the SG, few interior parts will transfer over from what I understand. Mechanically, everything will bolt in, the wiring would become the headache. Others will elaborate further I’m sure. Cheers Bennie

You could run a set of fan belts without the PS pump in operation. I don’t know part numbers sorry. Any EA82 PS rack will be a direct bolt in replacement. They didn’t do anything special to the GL-10 racks. Cheers Bennie

These might help: Gear lever arrangement ^ Low range lever setup for a stock vehicle: A bent rod welded to the EA81 low range lever would work to adapt the two together. I hope this helps. Pics are from partsouq - try using your vin to find other images like this. Cheers Bennie

You should have another set of rods that connects to the back of the gearbox, one “solid” mounted (with a rubber bush) with a plate/knuckle for the base of the gear lever; the other rod connects higher up on the gear lever and to the gear selector shaft at the back on the LHS of the gearbox. That parallel rod will be for the low range/4wd. It should pass through the back of the gearbox to a U shaped connector that uses a pin to hold the rod into the cab’s low range lever. With a four inch lift you will need some serious mods to these rods and connectors to make it all work, you could DIY something to fit. Even adapting the EJ manual shifter would be a good start for the required parts to get this working. Use the EA81 low range lever and adapt it to the EA82 low range rod on the gearbox Cheers Bennie

Opposite applies for the Series 2 (‘87 was the crossover year). The series 1 had 3.9 ratio for the manual trans. I’m not 100% sure if this was across all manuals or just in the touring wagon (raised roof/roof bump model). That is definitely an EA82. Cheers Bennie

You’ll need a new fuel pump. It would be a good idea to remove and clean the fuel tank, replace all rubber fuel lines including those under the intake manifold. While the manifold is off replace all coolant hoses with new items. You could get it started first then do all the fuel and coolant hoses so you know for sure that it’s a runner to begin with. Alternatively, try some Aerostart to see if it will fire on that. Good idea to drain oil and assess its condition, replace with cheap stuff for the purpose of initial start up and giving it something fresh to lubricate with. If there’s water or coolant in the oil you have a head gasket issue. Cheers Bennie

Flywheel and clutch pressure plate! Starter motor too. Grab the pedal box with the brake pedal, clutch pedal and clutch cable. The instrument cluster could be a good idea for the correct lights when in 4wd etc. Gearbox cross member. Rear diff for sure. Unlikely to be an LSD, but you never know... more likely if from a turbo. Grab the cv shafts front and rear for spares. Fronts will be different (and required) if factory turbo. Centre console, 4wd lever etc. If it has rear discs grab them as well. That about it I think. Your list was pretty good. Cheers Bennie

If you’re already thinking this way you’ll regret ever selling it. Also if there’s little rust in it, fix this and keep it as rust free examples are quite hard to come by - and if you could buy another example it will never be the same as this first one of yours. My sentiments anyway. I’d only sell my Brumby if I was pushed really hard and needed to get out of a bad financial position. It’s a family member to me - not the same as one of my kids though Cheers Bennie

So get a second one Cheers Bennie

What model engine to each of these have? If they have the same engine designation such as both being EA81 or both being EA82, then yes, the lift from the GL will fit the hatch. If one is EA81 and the other is EA82, then no, the lift kit will not be a swap over option. Cheers Bennie

Yeah, we have the returned service men and women’s Legacy foundation. I believe our govt requested Subaru rename the Legacy for our market - it’s the only one where it’s known as the Liberty. And you can probably guess why it’s not called a Liberty in the states I’m sure someone over your way could confirm this. I reckon I read it on here somewhere... Cheers Bennie

Yeah we did! Our govt didn’t tax vehicles with dual range gearboxes like the states did - this is apparently why USDM Subarus were single range only after the L series/EA82 Subarus. We have a 2002 Forester auto in the family EJ251 with ~350,000km on the clock, still going strong. My sister’s 2000 Liberty RX with EJ251 and manual has well over 400,000km, still going strong but on a second hand gearbox due to bearing failure on the upper layshaft. It’s still running its original centre diff. My L series has 530,000km on the body, is highly modified and has no original drivetrain as a result! Cheers Bennie

I’d be swapping the O2 sensors first as if suspect these are dead before the ECU had issues. My 20c on the matter. Cheers Bennie

Problem is the threads overlap or are very close to it. Two threaded holes about three mm apart would be a whole lot stronger. Cheers Bennie

You could do this in stages. Start with the engine and gearbox conversion. Gearbox will need custom crossmember, tail shaft and possibly gear linkages (I’m about to do this and find out in the next few months) Wiring is “easy” - after you’ve done one or two loom cut downs: Basically you work out what’s the ECU plug wiring, what goes to the engine, O2 sensor, AFM, starter motor, ignitor etc, then cut away the rest. If there’s a splice in the wiring, cut out the one that branches off from between the ECU and it’s respective plug at the engine end. There are several wires you’re looking for as well - VSS (vehicle speed sensor), check engine light, main power with ignition, permanent power, back up permanent power, coolant temp and oil idiot light wires. The last two can use the factory EA81 wiring to keep it simple. If you want the EJ instrument cluster it can be done and fitted with minor mods (from my understanding) unless you have the long cluster arrangement. Wiring stuff I’m not sure about for the cluster as I’ve never used the donor’s cluster but have seen it done on other forums. The brakes will need front EJ knuckles/hub which means a strut swap and a custom driveshaft too. Rear gets complicated with the need of a custom hub that adapts the EJ stud pattern to the EA stub axle. Once you have this the EJ brake backing plate needs to be drilled to fit the EA swing arm. Then bolt all the EJ brake setup onto the swing arm and she’s apples. Next up is working out the hand brake arrangement. Using the section of EJ trans tunnel where the cables enter under the floor mats would make this much easier. That’s about it for brakes. Widening the track width to that of the legacy is another project in itself. You will end up with almost half the tyre outside the guards and you will need to graft strut towers into the rear of the wagon - and brace this to make it last the distance. I hope this gives you some insight as to what you’re up for. Personally I’d stop after sorting the brakes to EJ. Cheers Bennie

That seems odd. SJM? The super junction? No ECU wires should be going through this! As for shields, it shouldn’t matter if they crossover with the wire swap - shields are usually grounded so I can’t see an issue with the swap/crossover but that does seem odd. Cheers Bennie

Depends on how you go about it. I’m not into adaptor plates but know a bit about them. And if someone goes for an EJ swap, some research should be part of this decision! I guess not everyone does this bit before diving in head first. Cheers Bennie

Thanks @Numbchux I didn’t know they were made like that. Engineers over here wouldn’t approve that if the plate is alloy, steel maybe. Cheers Bennie

@91loyaleman - we didn’t get the SPFI over here. Any that are here are imported setups from the states. Cheers Bennie

Just the 5 stud hub that mounts on the stub axle. Meh, don’t need them Steptoe, Plans are in the wings for another production run of these hubs from Australia from what I’ve here. So local to us and is the key ingredient needed for the 5 stud conversion. Cheers Bennie