el_freddo

There shouldn’t be. I’m running a phase 1 EJ22, with some exeedy clutch in there with a phase two gearbox casing using a clutch cable as the clutch operation - in an L series. It all works well. You shouldn’t have an issue with that clutch. Also a good time to ditch the dual mass flywheel for a solid (off any EJ subaru will fit). Cheers Bennie

EA82 or EA81? I don’t know which way the hoses go, in Oz, being RHD, the lines from the pump just “line up” with the rack on the EA82. On the EA81 the end of the EJ hoses needs to be flared. I think (but could be wrong because I’ve only seen on here and not in the flesh) that you also need the hose hard lines that run across to the RHS to meet up with the pump lines. Cheers Bennie

There’s a lot of old thread digging going on recently. You can’t just drop us like that Steptoe!! Cheers Bennie

I’m sure you can get standard height replacements by king springs. Or grabbing a set from a Gen2 could be another option. Cheers Bennie

Glad this is sorted mate! Have fun, chalk it up as experience! Cheers Bennie

If your struts have a hex nut shape at the top of them where the shaft comes out from, do not throw them away, they’re rebuildable! If they’re pressed on units at the top there, DO NOT attempt to open them as these are gas filled struts and cannot be rebuilt. With the rebuildable units, my issue is where to get new seals from - and to work out what weight oil to use in them. Cheers Bennie

The Crank timing gear mark is on the tab on the back of the gear under the crank sensor. The tab you’re looking for is just like the one in your pic but has a definite line printed in it. Your problem is either misaligned cam belt timing or a harmonic balancer/pulley where the rubber is deteriorated and the outer ring has slipped, moving the TDC timing mark orientation. But I’m thinking that it if you’re using that mark on the crank timing gear for the cam belt timing, this is what’s out and causing the issue. In theory, you could have the arrows on the cam wheel pointed in the right directions for cam timing TDC and do the clearances. But it probably wouldn’t run if the cam timing is out. Cheers Bennie

Awesome news! Now go and run that thing in properly! Cheers Bennie

Must be a right hand drive issue then, which makes sense since the speedo drive comes out on the right hand side of the gearbox, so our Speedo cable does a direct route that hugs the firewall. Cheers Bennie

Valve lash adjustment - I thought he lined the TDC mark on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer to install the belt. Re-reading the original post this morning I’m thinking that @chopper is using the timing mark on the crank cam gear for TDC. The timing for TDC must use the crank pulley/harmonic balancer or go by the arrow (not the cam timing mark) on the LHS cam wheel. Cheers Bennie

Speedo cable will need extending for a four inch lift. I had to extend mine for a three inch lift - lucky mine came with a free L series soo had that part with it. Cheers Bennie

The caliper issue is most likely sticky guide pins not allowing the caliper to slide inwards as the piston is pushing outwards. Cheers Bennie

Maybe 12 years ago he built a different EA82... then got this one recently as an unknown rebuild. The engine stand comment was most likely about it’s check over before install. Cheers Bennie

We’ve all been there! It can get worse, definitely don’t get cocky with water!! ^ that was ten years ago this November! There’s a three inch lift and 27 inch tyres hiding in that water. Engine was still running even though the left hand bank was under water. Crazy how time flies!! Keep up the good effort! Cheers Bennie

Get onto that windscreen rust! It’s the worst and will be x10 worse than what you can see with the windscreen in place! Cheers Bennie

The mark on the crank cam gear is what you align the timing belt setup with, not the TDC mark on the crank pulley. If you’ve put the cam belt on using the TDC mark on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer, the engine will not run. That arrow is really handy for indicating which cylinder is on the firing stroke. Check out your cam timing and ensure the cam wheels/gears line up properly with the clogged belt gear mark on the crank. Cheers Bennie

Or be a bush mechanic and get a flat head screwdriver and wedge between the cam and cam follower, then lever from there... does the valve compress any when the engine is rotated? Cheers Bennie

Sorry, I must have confused the BRAT stuff. Its been a good decade since converting the L to power steering and I thought I recalled needing a different knuckle setup to mate the rack to the column. Everything else was a direct bolt in. Cheers Bennie

Hey TCR, you need the next subforum along - the EA81 and EA82 forum for brats, Leone’s etc. Being that you’re in Oz, have you tried Ausubaru.com.au ? Actually it’s pretty quite over that way, you’ll get more exposure here, still, join up and share your ride’s details Cheers Bennie

Welcome Fmxr! Sounds like a fun project! What engine management will you be running? And turbo exhaust manifold - got over from the back of the engine crossmember or doing a cut and shut on the crossmember with the factory turbo exhaust manifold? Cheers Bennie

Love the L! So clean. Cheers Bennie

Welcome Eriksund! Cheers Bennie

Have you swapped tyres? Sounds like one of them might have a flat spot. Cheers Bennie

This will sound crazy, but have you tried pulling or pushing on the valve to see if you can free it up? Cheers Bennie

I reckon on dirt you’re better with power steering - gives you better reaction time through less effort required to turn the steering wheel. If you can’t get the steering knuckle setup with the rack you’re best off to steer clear in my book. Cheers Bennie