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@GeneralDisorder - same for an old phase 1 turbo engine, or is a little more finesse required with those? Asking for a friend Cheers Bennie

Run forester diameter tyres, speedo will be correct (unless fuji did something in the cluster between models). Cheers Bennie

No ignitor on the DOHC turbos @Rampage - they’re coil on plug. Ensure you have the coils plugged in/placed correctly. Cheers Bennie

Make sure you have ignition power to the ECU, rather than just power when in the start position. Quick test: put ignition into ON position, check that the ECU has power/is on (CEL should be lit up too). My initial thought as I read your issue. Other one that caught me out is the IACV hose under the intake - make sure it’s connected. If not it will run for several seconds then stall. Cheers Bennie

Looking good mate! Cant wait to hear your report after a test blart on an open track! Cheers Bennie

How do you make something yours when you’ve already had it? And how do you blow it up in two weeks, intentional? Looking forward to seeing where you go with this build. Cheers Bennie

Keep up the good effort mate. I love that colour in the wagons! Cheers Bennie

Trans swap not too involved - just mechanicals, no real wiring to the auto box unless you have one of those crazy four speed autos that ended up in the legacy. Different prop shaft length forward of the centre bearing carrier. Different gearbox crossmember (I think they’re different, can’t remember), different centre piece for the console, clutch pedal assembly, flywheel and clutch swap, different starter motor. Would need to check spline count of the diff output stub axles to ensure you’ve got the matching units. Doable though. As for it not running right, start with the cam timing - when crank is lined up one can should be aligned too and the other 180 degrees opposite. If not, correct it by refitting the cam belts correctly. After this, look into spark timing, it should be at 20 deg BTDC. Cheers Bennie

Nice looking radiator, I’d be putting it behind the AC and main radiator if possible - you want to waste a bit of heat from the turbo, not then heat up cooling air for the AC condenser and main radiator. Hopefully you can mount it behind everything once the engine is in place. Cheers Bennie

Are you British? By character you mean you need to spend lots of time with it and the various issues. EJ engines are so plentiful because Subaru were onto a good thing, hence why it stuck around for so long! I love my EJ concerted L series. I would not want an EA82 again to the point that I’d drop an EA81 in place of the EA82 if it came to it. You need to try an EJ22 in an EA body with a nice exhaust to see how good they are as a conversion - plus they’re uber easy to maintain, parts-a-plenty too. Each to their own. Cheers Bennie

Hang on, Gen 2 as in L series? Or the EA81? If EA81, the above applies to door fittings. If EA82, nothing fits between the doors. Cheers Bennie

Nope. Brat doors are longer. Fittings such as door handles are the same though. Brat doors are interchangeable with the hardtop coupe and the two door hatch. Cheers Bennie

Maybe for the series 1. Series 2 definitely all 3.7 diff ratio. Meaning if you see the button on the gearstick it will be a single range. Cheers Bennie

You need to align the timing marksfor spark to properly align the dizzy for install. Those cam timing marks will have the piston halfway up/down the cylinder. No good for aligning dizzy at no1 and fitting. Cheers Bennie

Nope. I don’t think any parts stores ever sold them. Used is what you need. Cheers Bennie

Your wheel hub chew out the splines that mate with the drive shaft? If so, left and right hubs are interchangeable. Find a parts vehicle and you should be sorted. Cheers Bennie

Be sure to grab the rear diff to match the diff ratio to the box. Many, if not all, of the series 1 gearboxes are 3.9 ratio. The series 2 are all 3.7. Turbo dual range has 1.19:1 low range, non turbo got the best low range from Subaru at 1.59:1. The turbo coupes (RXII) got dual range AWD with a locking centre diff. Best of both worlds on road and off-road, except for the crappy low range (but that can be swapped out). Cheers Bennie

I hope it’s found in reasonable if not good condition and that your insurance company doesn’t write it off so you can have it back. Although, after that it just never feels the same, even if the thief only drove it around the block... Here’s hoping. Cheers Bennie

Here I was thinking you’re blowing your own trumpet Steptoe! Happy New Year old fella! @turbodog - you could look into the aviation spec RAM heads, see what they did in the coolant pipe department. Also look at their EA81 as this could have some ideas for you too. Cheers Bennie

https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=4919 ^ many pics missing early on in the thread but last time I checked the later pics are still there This is to show you the sort of effort required, even then it’s limited to certain design aspects of the Subaru. Cheers Bennie

It’s probably in the snow belt now (trying to make light of a shite situation). Bennie

Awesome story and an interesting form of motivation. That rust under the windscreen is pretty normal unfortunately. The rust in the rear end looks like someone backed it into the ocean and didn’t wash it down after. Keep the build going, you’ll love it once it’s done - and if you do it right you won’t be doing this again anytime soon! What’s the plan other than restore it? Going to paint it beige again or something a bit of fun? EA81 or drop an EJ into it? That wiring, don’t stress over it. The good thing about Brumbys is that they’re quite basic wiring-wise ;) Cheers Bennie PS: totally wrote the above a week ago, seems I never posted it. Thanks editor for saving it!

Are we talking the ‘70s shaped brat or the 80’s version? If it’s the earlier one (f88?), you will have difficulty fitting an EJ in there, but it can be done as I’ve seen one on the net here in Oz that was done. Can’t remember where I saw it. I do remember it had discs all round and I think a 5 stud conversion. The EJ suspension will have about half of your tyre hanging outside the front and rear guards from what I understand of the track width difference. Cheers Bennie

@1 Lucky Texan - bang on the money mate! Rule #1 with Subaru engine block changes: always retain the original crank and LHS cam sprockets for this exact reason. Glad to read it worked out easy in the end, and I’m sure you are too @Subgirl76 Cheers Bennie

Welcome @SubiJay Im sure there will be someone close to you. I’m not, but if you’re ever in SE Oz, send us a PM (goes for any USMB member!), will have to wait a decade for this virus to be contained and our borders to be open again Cheers Bennie