el_freddo

GD will tell you what’s worth your coin and what’s not. Personally, anything with canbus is not worth buying - my opinion is you’re buying a ticking time bomb that may not be resolved with anything other than scrapping it and getting a new car ;( And hang in there guys. These are very different times and everyone’s mental health will be taking a dive more than a normal year. And we haven’t found our “covid normal” yet. Time will tell whether it’s like a zombie apocalypse that lingers around picking ppl off randomly or if it fades into another regular flu like the Spanish influenza 100 years ago. Kudos to those looking after their aging parents. 102yo ey @brus brother!! I don’t think I could handle that with my mum, she’s about to hit 70 next year. Good thing is a celebratory cruise ship venture is off the cards for us (we didn’t want to go anyway). Mask up, stay safe and keep calm hand hygiene is paramount in these times too. I think I’ve met all the hand sanitiser I’ve ever used in my life before this year over the last six to nine months! Should’ve got shares in these companies last year... hindsight is a bitch. All the best with future employment opportunities for those out of work, hang in there because this shall pass. Cheers Bennie

That’s how my first conversion started. Got an EJ20 for $100, then ended up getting an EJ22 engine, loom and ECU. Haven’t looked back. That EJ20 is now going towards another project. Cheers Bennie

Rotor pin has nothing to do with cam timing as it can be pulled out and incorrectly installed - throwing a red herring into the mix. Cheers Bennie

Look for rust. Typical places: - windscreen surround/corners - under rear fixed side windows, followed by the wheel arches - rocker/sill panels - body work behind the front guards in the section behind front wheels - good place to trap dirt, road grime and moisture - generally under the vehicle, especially if in salt country - at which stage this will rust out super quick anyway if not treated properly. Engine will leak oil like a sieve unless pulled apart, cleaned, cleaned and cleaned before reassembly. If the EA82 blows a head gasket, replace it with an EJ22. You will thank me later Hoard parts! Cheers Bennie

EJ22 engine management is the go. It’ll give you the option of upgrading the block later down the track. You will probably have to fit a cam angle sensor as I don’t think the EJ18 uses one - another reason to avoid this setup. Cheers Bennie

Not necessarily. If they just set and forget there could be many underlying issues that come into play once you drive off and things start moving as the suspension does its thing. Cheers Bennie

Doing a factory efi EJ22 install is much easier than fabricating parts for dizzy and Weber in my book. Cheers Bennie

It doesn’t matter which cam is at 12 and 6 o’clock, so long as both aren’t at the same and the crank lines up each revolution. Cheers Bennie

@89Ru - the centre diff will make the clunk noise in either direction and no noise in a straight line. It sounds like a dull knocking sound that’s speed and load related. I don’t recall any skipping or real binding sensations when a gearbox I put in my sister’s Gen3 had a shot centre diff. Good to see it was only a drive shaft though! Easy fix if not frustrating at the least. All the best! Cheers Bennie

Are you sure it’s not a centre diff clunk noise when turning? Cheers Bennie

Looks good mate! I hope mine is that good one day!! Cheers Bennie

It can and has been done many times before - the wrx engine into an L series. Not for the those who don’t know their way around an engine bay or how to read a diagram - unless you’re paying someone to do it, at which point get a good wrx with a dud engine and swap engines. There are loads of threads on the net about these sorts of conversions. Have a read of those and go from there. Cheers Bennie

PS - that unit in the side of the radiator is only a temperature switch. It’ll do diddly squat for your gauge reading until it “turns on”, then your gauge will go sky high. Cheers Bennie

EA temp sender unit is in the intake manifold just under the thermostat. Two things you can do: 1) fit the EA temp sender unit to the EJ coolant crossover pipe - might need to have a plate welded on to allow appropriate thickness to seal properly. 2) plumb into the heater hoses (the one coming from the coolant crossover pipe) in a metal T piece that’s got a wire to an earth point. Both are effective. T piece is easier when it comes to engine swaps etc. or you can fit a mechanical/electric aftermarket gauge for ultimate definitive temp reading. Same trick with the T piece. Mechanical doesn’t need an earth wire. Your shroud looks good. I presume the fans fit around everything on the front of the EJ? Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum @Wilco88 Looks like you’ve covered all bases with getting this question out there! What idosubaru said Cheers Bennie

Go OEM. Might cost a bit more but it’s cheaper than another HG job in the next year or two. In saying that I have no experience with those aftermarket gaskets. Cheers Bennie

Stop confusing things @Ionstorm66!! If you follow the procedure properly you can’t stuff it up. Line up the cam timing marks on the flywheel, pistons are mid cylinder. So it doesn’t matter as long as the dizzy cam wheel is aligned with its mark when the belt is put on. What DOES REALLY MATTER is the one crank rotation between fitting the second belt. Without this rotation the engine will only ever run on one bank or the other when messing with the dizzy position (rotating 180 degrees). Correct. The 2:1 confusion is from crank rotations. ^this!!* Pfft, more of an option mention than a plug! As @idosubaru said about the EJs - early ‘90s. The real trick is looking at the cam followers/rocker arms. If they’re HLA, non interference. If they’re solid with adjusters, they’re interference. Only time you’ll snap an EJ belt through poor maintenance with an idler bearing seizing. Or copping a stick through the cam cover, I almost did that job once! Cheers Bennie *unless the question is “should I just EJ this?”

Replace both belts and tensioners. It might not be an old belt that “just snapped”, it could be a seized tensioner wheel that melts the cambelt and makes a huge mess. If there’s any melted rubber on the crank or cam wheels, clean this off - ALL of it! It’s not fun. Best bit about the EA82 cam belt job is you can’t stuff the engine as they’re non interference. The other option (and I have to say this partly for shits and giggles) is to EJ it. Then your L will be really fun! Cheers Bennie

Rear tyre toe in/camber shot on the side that scrubs the tyres out? They say they’re non adjustable but the rear camber/toe in is changeable from the three bolts on the outer swing arm. I need to do mine but haven’t worked out how to do it with tyres on etc - or how to measure it. I have other issues to sort out first! Also, no lift in this rig? Cheers Bennie

Battery drain issue - make sure the boot/trunk interior light is turning off when the lid is closed. Cheers Bennie

That’s an easy one, you’ll be fine. Cheers Bennie

Should be fine then if heads were shaved and the HG replaced properly. Cheers Bennie

My weapon of choice was an angle grinder. Very satisfying. Cheers Bennie

Also look into the possibility that you have a leaking head gasket. Hopefully not, but if they’re the original HGs I’d be suspect about them. Cheers Bennie

If the injector is clicking, have you looked at fuel pressure or the possibility that the fuel pump is dead? Cheers Bennie