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@Ferret54 - EJ engine. EA was L series and MY prior to the EJ series engine beginning in ’89 Cheers Bennie

(Edit) There are two belt types, and two SOHC sizes. DOHC = double overhead cams and SOHC =,single overhead cams (shorter belt than the DOHC) It does not matter what year your EJ engine is - the belt requirement depends on whether it’s DOHC or SOHC. Tensioner type doesn’t matter! Both systems have a tensioner, two smooth idlers and one cogged idler. Later DOHC’s have a small smooth idler between the tensioner and the intake cam wheel. Cheers Bennie

Exactly what forester2002s said. This is the FB series engine setup. Cheers Bennie

Nope, drive shafts here are what you guys call half shafts. Sorry for the confusion! That centre drive shaft is known as a tail shaft or prop shaft over here! Cheers Bennie

This points to driveshafts for me. I realise you said you swapped them for known good ones, but this is what my thinking comes back to - particularly if it’s a big steering wheel wobble at lower speeds. Cheers Bennie

Only if it’s not brake cleaner. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder will say DO NOT HONE THE BORES!! Seriously don’t hone them. As for the ring question, I though that was standard practice! I’ll wait for GD’scomment on the one! Cheers Bennie

<edited out incorrect info - phase 1 and phase 2 cam belts are different lengths> Changing of the tensioner isn’t an issue. Make sure you’re using the little line/dash on the front outer edge of the cam wheels and not the arrow on one of the spokes. The marker for the crank is on the back of the crank cam wheel, it lines up with a mark on the crank angle sensor mount. Make sure this is lined up correctly when checking the cam positions. Check that the crank and cam sensors are still fitted properly. Cheers Bennie

Relay can be bypassed with a piece of wire that connects the power wire to the pump power wire. Sorry, I can’t remember wire colours etc. I think I went with the fattest two wires when I bypassed mine for testing. Cheers Bennie

Further thought: check for spark. If you’re not getting any spark, the fuel cutout relay does not power up the fuel pump after an initial prime of 3-5 seconds. Cheers Bennie

The fuel safety cut relay is under the dashboard above the driver’s feet. In my brumby/brat it’s a black unit. This could be disconnected or have a kill switch incorporated into it. I don’t know that it’s negative switching or not. If it was positive switching you wouldn’t see any voltage at the pump. The other thing it could be is a blocked fuel pipe. Used compressed air to blow any crud from the front to the back of the car - disconnect the flexible fuel lines so you’re not blowing crap into your new pump. If the car won’t start after this, you could manually apply 12v and earth to make the pump run, then try starting. If it starts then you know for sure you have a wiring issue to sort out. Have fun, these little utes are real gems! Cheers Bennie

@Numbchux - EA81 brumby. We didn’t get the “factory” EA82 cruise control over here. So Al will be using the EJ cruise setup. From what model specifically, I don’t know. @Al Zhiemer - I like your idea, but not easily accessible, I guess this is where clutch and brake switches that cancel the cruise come into the picture. My thoughts on the spare switches - leave them as they look better than a blanked out switch. Or modify the loom to make the top two switches auto up and down for each window. That’d be sweet I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Well you’ve only got a short list of parts left before all replaceable parts new. It could be the rack bushes, or possibly a bearing, but that would usually be associated with noise. Cheers Bennie

I hope there’s little to no damage! Min my town there’s a known group of youths with a bunch of subaru keys. When they want to steal a brumby they go through the pile of keys they have until one pops the door open. Once in the key will usually operate the ignition lock - and off they go. Of the seven brumbys stolen that I’ve heard about, they were all returned relatively un-harmed except the last one that was torched Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum JJ. The outback is a solid platform like the other Subaru models. You should get the older one for off-roading Cheers Bennie

Original steering column can be retained with or without PS. The wiring advice - correct. Keep it with the dashboard, unplug everything else Cheers Bennie

Subarino Auto Electrics in Perth, Australia is currently producing 2 inch lift kits for the MY platform. I don’t know if he’ll ship international but it wouldn’t hurt to ask. Find him on Facebook, mention that Bennie sent you his way Cheers Bennie

Dashboards can be re-skinned, usually expensive but comes out like new! Well worth the effort for a much better looking instrument cluster. You’ll be right with this and the other swaps mate Cheers Bennie

Agree with what Al says. If you have the six gauge dash it’s worth the swap. Digit dash not so much but some ppl are into them! The power steering - the engine crossmember will fit the power steering rack no worries, but four spot welds on the hacking plate need to be removed. Replace with nuts and bolts - same as a factory PS setup. Definitely dash out for AC! Good time to swap in the longer dash and cluster of your choosing (digital or six gauge analogue - need the wiring specific to the instrument cluster!), or keep the factory dash with the AC wiring behind it. If you go with the touring wagon console and power windows, it basically an interior swap. But if you change the bracket that mounts the console to the dashboard, you can easily retain the factory brumby console without electric windows but with the long dash arrangement. I hope that makes sense! Cheers Bennie

- 5 speed box is either front wheel drive only or a conversion from an L series that retains 4wd. - power steering is a direct swap over - AC a direct swap over - power windows need some mods for the window to go all the way down. I’ve done it before. - power windows - I didn’t know these were an option!! That or it doesn’t have any. Power steering: a good time to put new boots, new rack ends and tie rod ends on the rack while it’s out. The gearbox swap should be straight forward. Fuel injection, you’ll need a later model L series SPFI unless you can dig up the rare EA81 turbo and fit that (L series turbo management will run it no worries). Cheers Bennie

The bolts are in a larger hole and the thickness of the bolt thread. So the hub can effectively move closer to, or away from the swing arm mount a few mm. And by raising the bolts relative to their holes, it twists/rotated the hub face so the tyre can have loads of positive or negative camber. I hope this helps Jono! Cheers Bennie

Welcome Rafavidmess! I say keep both of you can!! Which one is the better of the two? I didn’t understand if you were talking about the brumby/MV or the wagon. Cheers Bennie

I can tell you what they ARE doing: loosening the three bolts on the outer swing arm to make adjustments. These three bolts are set from factory or the dealer as part of the final inspection and are deemed “unadjustable”. You need a shop that can look at toe, camber and castor as one setting - those three bolts do all of that for the rear end - it all depends on how they move the hub part of the swing arm in relation to the front section of the swing arm with the three bolts. Tiny movement/changes at the two halves of the outer swing arm make big changes at the top, bottom, front and rear of the tyre. It’s not an easy adjustment to get right - and access to those bolts is limited. Cheers Bennie

Welcome Grennick! Cheers Bennie

It will work. The gearbox is probably an 8 bolt at the bell housing and your EJ22 will be a four bolt. Just use the four bolts to hold the gearbox and a engine together. You will need to arrange a stud for the lower starter motor mount as the gearbox uses this as a bolt in the 8 bolt setup. Or just use the top mount bolt to do the job. Ive done this with my L series - gen1 EJ22 four bolt engine, 2003 forester SG eight bolt (phase 2) gearbox. Cheers Bennie