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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. Hey Steptoe, i cant find discussions of the twins on the EA82, but subius (I think it was) had the twins mentioned in his signature on his L series in tassie. And I’m sure Fang had a set on his L series too. But I can’t find those references. Lots of EA81 twin carb talk though. Easy to search using google: “twin site:www.ausubaru.com.au” Cheers Bennie
  2. If the 95 is running well, just use that if it’s awd. Cheers Bennie
  3. Well to be clear/clear this up: my first post here was trying to say that those who found the elusive twins were putting them on the EA82 back in the hay day of ausubaru. I failed to say they were specifically putting them on the EA82. Then you said that you didn’t recall anyone doing this but do recall EA82 intake and single carb on EA81. Now I was asking which model the EA82 twins came from... or what aftermarket product were they using?? I hope that helps. Plus in these situations “EJ” is always the answer Cheers Bennie
  4. The sealant I used was Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket Sealant Liquid #80019. Google that for the exact product etc. Cheers Bennie
  5. Hmmm... you might be right on that one. But then what model did the EA82 twins come from? Cheers Bennie
  6. I’ve used a T piece for oil pressure gauge and idiot oil warning light switch under the alternator. I’d rather this setup and have easy visual access to inspect for leaks and easy access to fix. Using other ports will add another leak point anyway, and some of those option can’t easily be seen or accessed. You can also use some sealant on the joints. The stuff is aviation grade. I’ll have to look it up - it’s a brown goo and you don’t need much of it on each joint! Cheers Bennie
  7. I’ve got a Nissan Pulsar N13 radiator in my L series. Some mods needed, upper rad support panel needs to be rolled up a little and some rad rail mods done. Very successful conversion for my setup. Dual core copper with plastic end tanks. Goes well with the EJ22 and a decent air dam behind the radiator to create a low pressure zone behind the rad. Keeps the ‘22 nicely cool even off-road. Cheers Bennie
  8. I was talking EA82 but didn’t specify, sorry! Cheers Bennie
  9. Some places work off oem part numbers. It’s a long shot but I reckon it’s worth having a crack at. Cheers Bennie
  10. Yes it was a common conversion in ausubaru for those that got their hands on the elusive twins. You getting that old now Steptoe? Cheers Bennie
  11. Yeah I wasn’t sure about the turbo models, that’s good to know. Got a part number to share? The 4wd wagons came with single row radiator. Cheers Bennie
  12. I did the same as Steptoe but instead of drilling a bigger hole in the rad support panel, I modified the clip to fit the hole. I too now have a yellow holder for the bonnet support rod. Cheers Bennie
  13. Get an aftermarket gauge that actually indicates a temperature figure, then you’ll see it move up and down. Factory temp gauges are built to stay steady within certain parameters to keep the consumer happy. Once that needle heads north it’s already too late!! The NA Loyales came out with a single core radiator. I’m not sure of what models came with dual core. Even here in Oz they all had single core for NA from factory. If your AC gets warm at the lights it needs a service - or the fans looked at to ensure proper air flow when stationary. Cheers Bennie
  14. You want to keep the thing easy to maintain! Stock is the best way to do this. I wouldn’t be going to reinvent the wheel on this one for the sake of a comfortable ride. Cheers Bennie
  15. Any chance that they “just plugged in”?? Cheers Bennie
  16. And the EA82 oil pumps? How do you guys burn through those too? I’ve got a few of those kicking around that I’ll never use... all from good working engines. Cheers Bennie
  17. Not done it but I like the look of the indicator in the side mirror housing. I’d like to replicate that on my earlier model Subys. Cheers Bennie
  18. Been busy mate! Nice effort. Going to be a track car? Cheers Bennie
  19. I’d clean it up and reuse it. Not a critical part. It’s job is to align the engine and gearbox with more precision than the mounting bolts. Being slightly smaller won’t matter. Cheers Bennie
  20. The rear return line low pressure hoses *should* be ok. Good time to swap them anyway if they’re factory units (most likely are). Cheers Bennie
  21. Essentially you’re correct there. The EA81 of the MY/Leone model before the L series/Loyale/GL was bullet proof and I believe it was destined for the L series/Loyale/GL until Subaru’s competitors had over head cam marketing and “performance” - hence the box cam abomination of the EA82 with small rubber bands as cam belts. The L series/Loyale/GL should have come with the EA81 and a later option of the EJ series engine. The EJ22 is an awesome perk up for the L series/Loyale/GL! Here in Oz I don’t have issues getting parts I need, but I’m also not running an EA82 drivetrain in my L series. I too am not a fan of the auto off-road. All good going up hills, but descending with brakes only isn’t fun and can be plain dangerous. But with that said, we got the dual range EJ series gearbox for many years, so they’re readily available to source. @GeneralDisorder - I know what the last four of those vehicles on your list are. The first two, no clue as I’m 99% sure we didn’t get them here and they’re not a “common” personal import like the Pontiac models. I understand the love of older stuff. Mine is in the L series and MYs. Like Steptoe said, no issues getting parts for them over here, and I too can’t understand why oil pumps are swapped out so often that they’re no longer available! If demand is there, someone will make a replacement unit. @Tillaru - glad to hear you’ll move the Loyale on. The only good bits would be some trim pieces and the gearbox to the right buyer. Cheers Bennie
  22. Subaru’s don’t have a transfer case in the traditional sense of the idea. The low range is on the input shaft located above the front diff. The actual transfer gears for rear drive are at the back of the gearbox and are dependant on the pinion shaft as to whether they’ll interchange or not. While GD has strong opinions on crushing etc, I’m the opposite and I’m sure there are others on here the same. The loyale is a great car, but underpowered and parts are generally harder to find, but not impossible. I’m glad GD wasn’t around earlier (as in 40+ years ago) with the same ideals - otherwise we wouldn’t have any classics or vintage vehicles! Nor will these Subaru’s make it to that status if they’re extinct! I understand the whole dollar over effort thing but I don’t understand why our society throws things away as soon as it becomes too hard - then we wonder why the younger generations give up once the going gets a little rough!! So getting back on the topic (that got out of hand sorry), you need to look at what the owner expects from the vehicle. If it’s just dirt roads or used logging tracks with suitable gradients for trucks then the single range setup would suffice. If it’s really about climbing things the decent low range or the auto and you might want to look into a lift. If the end of the day, it’s about what the owner wants - so long as it’s achievable! Cheers Bennie
  23. All high pressure lines need to be replaced with EFI grade fuel line. If you don’t do this, you’ll burst a fuel line and have all sorts of issues that could include a fiery end. Cheers Bennie
  24. How did you kill those things? Cheers Bennie

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