el_freddo

Original radio! Respect! I couldn’t find one in Oz to save myself!! I have the complete unmolested garnish piece but no radio. One day... one day it might happen. Great adaptation work around. I’ll have to see if there’s anything locally here that’ll do the same thing. I’m currently using my first gen iPod touch with JBL flip5 Bluetooth speaker as my stez... Cheers Bennie

Bantum from Ausubaru.com.au made a thingyverse file for the spacer rings - and I think he did one for the brumby/brat indicator cancelling cylinder part Cheers Bennie

Only issue is you need to match the mount plate with the tensioner it comes with. If your EJ22 has the old separate piston design, that will be a direct swap. If your EJ22 has the tensioner arm with the piston and idler build in, then you’ll probably have to chase up the older style tensioner. Cheers Bennie

Plus blue lights for driving are quite frankly, spoob. I hate them. They’re distracting, glarey and blinding. They should never have been allowed on the road. My 5c Bennie

Single headlight will just plug into the outer light of the quads that seals with hi and low beam. Parkers and indicators should be the same wiring, not hard to swap a plug if you need to but I reckon you’d be able to just move the light fitting between the two units and use what you already have in there. As for the cyclops light. Probably easier to run a separate loom over the factory stuff in the recipient vehicle. Cheers Bennie

Agreed with @Crazyeights on the single port (carb) heads. Easier to make a manifold for and probably no real gains in the MPFI heads. But to answer your question, all interchangeable. Cam profiles changed between turbo and carb EA82s, but I’m not sure about how similar the NA MPFI cam profile is to the Carb units - or whether they’re actually the same (highly likely!). All the best with it. Do your research on intake runner length as this has lots to do with where your power will be made etc Typically, short runners for a revvy engine, not much torque down low. Long runners are good for low down torque but not so good for top end high rev work. That’s the basics on it, I’m sure there’s more detailed science to it. Cheers Bennie

The bush will certainly have a steel tube through it to which the bolt is grabbing. The use of an impact wrench/gun would be my weapon of choice, it might allow the bolt to move independently to the bush with all the hammering that hung does. Another good penetrant is 50/50 acetone and auto fluid. But as stated, getting it in the desired location will be the PITA. Cheers Bennie

Yeah true that about the currency exchange. I didn’t make mention of that as I thought others would work it out. I guess that’s the old assume saying... Cheers Bennie

Second Lambo door clad brat I’ve seen. The other one was Lambo yellow to boot and had “butterfly” twin sun roof panels. Not my cup of tea. And what’s with the cocktail setup in the ute bed? It’s not a house sale for the dressing to increase the sale price! I wish we got the rear jump seats! Clean stock Brumbys over here are asking prices of $8-10k. Really clean examples are asking about the same price they cost from the factory!! Cheers Bennie

G’day Kevin, It would be best to post in the 80’s subforum to get assistance quicker. Have you double checked the firing order of the spark leads on the spark plugs? Cheers Bennie

Feel free to come over and do Ruby Scoo’s door trims. You can see the dirt and dust in them from the various trips we’ve done! Your trim work with the vinyl looks tops mate Cheers Bennie

That’s good thinking! I would’ve run the same coolant for simplicity of only using one product... Cheers Bennie

When one door closes... Sounds like a good plan and some fun to be had! Cheers Bennie

Always the way mate. There’s a few brumby out there missing the drivetrain or interior and have a decent body. There’s a Targa shell up for grabs for cheap (gumtree), but there’s a pretty big catch! The front end was tweaked all wrong so they’ve cut it off from the strut towers forward and part of the firewall/trans tunnel. Would make for a good project in geometry along with spending loads of time carefully unpicking the spot welds from a donor to then fit to the project vehicle. The targa or “fun top” as it’s actually called by Subaru is the appealing bit of that body. It’s too far from me to grab, but if you’re game..! Chin up, rust is ALWAYS worse than you first thought. Expanding foam would probably add to its growth of more rust. Cheers Bennie

Nah, just kill off this member from the board. That’ll take out the threads they started like his first one which also needs to go: Cheers Bennie

Everything you described is standard mode of operation for the 3AT! We had one in the family lock up when the pinion shaft tried to insert itself into the diff centre when the pinion bearing imploded/exploded itself - due to a lack of oil! All the best with the rebuild... Cheers Bennie

^ that’s GOLD! Cheers Bennie

For clutch work etc I pull the gearbox. I use a motorcycle jack to help out. Works a treat. A hoist or pit would make it a bit easier in the crawling around under the car department. As for broken clutch disc, this was my efforts - clutch stopped working so drove about 300km through our Aussie Alps from Mt Hotham down to the coast at Lakes Entrance then about halfway back to Hotham before the drive to the gearbox stopped and there were “some unfavourable noises” before we rolled to a complete stop with no mobile reception: ^ new clutch disc on the left. 19 bits (and at least one missing) of the old unit on the right... The replacement clutch including pressure plate is still going well. That was ten years ago and the vehicle was daily driven until about three years ago, last 18 months it hasn’t been driven at all This is in my EJ converted L series Cheers Bennie

Called it!

No issue jacking from the rear diff! Front diff could be iffy so best to jack from the engine crossmember just behind the sump. If you’re not using the standard jack for the pinch weld seam under the rocker panels then you need to do as Ionstorm66 said - get/make an adaptor. Or do as 6 star said and jack from an appropriate place on the rear suspension frame or the front suspension/front chassis rails that continue half way along the floor pan Cheers Bennie

That’s the one @6 Star! Can’t believe it’s still around. I remember it with a yellowie-beige background though. Info is the main thing! Cheers Bennie

I doubt a thrown rod would contaminate the oil system unless the issues started some time before the rod let go. Youd want to know what signs of the rod letting go we’re there before the big event - knocking noises for example. Cheers Bennie

This wouldn’t happen to be a shame(less)-plug for more hits on a new channel in the hope for more subscribers and thus more monetisation profits?? If not, continue! Cheers Bennie

Your oil pump may be fine and not require any work - just don’t hammer it to get it out, that’s when you crack the pump housing rendering it useless. If the bottom end is fine, I’d leave it alone and look at dropping new rings in it as a minimum. Oil usage could be rings or intake valve seals (no seals on exhaust side!). Get it turning over first if possible. Don’t force it Cheers Bennie

There used to be a website, or at least a webpage that documented just about every 4x140 PCD rim out there. Can’t find it now though which is mega frustrating. It was a really good site, basic but informative. Cheers Bennie