el_freddo

An 18 month old TOB should be fine to reuse. Cheers Bennie

I think it’s for NA EA81, also applies to NA EA82. For MPFI and MPFI turbo you need to connect some plugs under the dash to let the ECU know it’s in test mode. SPFI could be the same but I’m not 100% sure on that. Cheers Bennie

I think you’ll find the Gen1 and possibly Gen2 autos are still 23 spline diff stubs. The issue will be fitting the auto in the brat’s trans tunnel. I reckon it’ll be too big if not lifted. I could be wrong though. Cheers Bennie

Good time to renew the sump gasket if it’s not been done before. If you’re feeling really energetic you could paint your rocker covers, intake manifold and air cleaner all the same colour. Cheers Bennie

Make sure you put the correct oil seal on the correct side as they’re a directional seal that are side specific Cheers Bennie

For the want of a better name, yes. Plugs under the dash need to be connected and the long and short flashes counted to make the code. This is how I’ve always done it. Works on OBDII too from memory. I’m sure I’ve used this on my sister’s Gen3 liberty and my MIL’s SG foz. Cheers Bennie

The issue is when there’s a stray electrical current in the cooling system that causes electrolysis. It legit. Loads of science behind it. Other reason to ground your radiator (not warranted here) is when your radiator temp switch is earthed to the brass radiator as they are in the EA81 MY Subaru’s. As for the issue at hand: almost sounds like some broken wires doing dodgy stuff. That’ll be fun to find. Has the vehicle been in a crash at some point? As for the manual conversion. Read up on the wiring diagram and delete the unnecessary pins at the ECU that relate to the auto (or is it ground a certain pin to tell the ECU it’s in manual mode, I can’t remember but a gregory’s manual has a good wiring diagram I follow for loom cut downs) and remove auto TCU if you haven’t already. What gear does the ECU think the auto is in (if that’s even a thing)? Cheers Bennie

I swapped an EJ alternator into my EA81. It might be a bit different with an EA82 that’s AC equipped. https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=49878 Cheers Bennie

Correct Cheers Bennie

Use genuine intake manifold gaskets! Don’t skimp, not worth it. Also replace all coolant hoses while you’ve got full access to the intake manifold. You’ll thank yourself later for this work. And there’s that pesky little hose under the intake manifold to deal with too. Cheers Bennie

Water pump will be fine. Full AC delete includes removing the evaporator unit from under the dashboard and putting the piece of ducting in its place, and pulling the wiring/replacing the AC fan switch combo. Cheers Bennie

Replace those seals. Mark the start location of the “sun dial”, count the turns out, pulling gently on the sun dial once the O ring is clear of the case (becomes very easy to undo by hand at that point). Once the sun dial comes free mark the case so you know where to start counting the threads. Do one side at a time. It’s not rocket science so don’t be scared about doing this job. Just make sure you prime the seal and the O ring with some rubber grease lube. Cant help with a 2wd cross member sorry. Cheers Bennie

Check that the charge globe isn’t blown. That’ll cause you all sorts of issues. Don’t use LEDs in there either. Ask Silverbull3t about it Cheers Bennie

@6 Star - you need a new ignition switch. You’ll find it’s not providing power to ignition when in the cranking position. Got a targa tip brat there too? Noice! They’re very sought after down here now. For me, just driving mine. 450km round trip last Saturday from central Vic into Melbs, our the other side then back again. Today headed down south for the Trentham spud fest, across to my old’s about 40km away then back home again. After that it’s back to the weekly duties to and from work. I need to regrease my front CVs. Not looking forward to that. Cheers Bennie

PS, I’m digging he line up in your driveway!

Possibly a severely cracked exhaust port. More common on the turbo EA82 engines when driven hard. But if the coolant was lost in the impact the overheat and crack extension could have happened then. Best case scenario is a dead HG that was exposed with the warm up. You could drop the Y pipe and inspect the exhaust ports to see if you can find a visual crack there. Or get the engine back up to temp and drop the Y pipe to see what’s happening in the exhaust ports. Lastly, are you sure it’s not just the usual condensation from a cold start before the exhaust is fully warmed up? Cheers Bennie

I was thinking about this overnight - why not just fit the tone wheel to the front of the crank pulley? That wouldn’t be hard to do, which had me thinking why you haven’t gone that way in the first place. Facebook sucks. Cheers Bennie

Good thread dig. Love reading old stuff like this Cheers Bennie

Yeah the phase 1 turbo gearbox and I believe the phase 2 gearboxes have different front case halves to facilitate the turbo clutch. On these the clutch fork pivots on a pin built into the gearbox case and the throw out bearing clips into the fork to pull on the pressure plate. To remove it you first pull the pin out and from memory the fork comes out with the engine and then it’s unclipped. You can get upgraded pressure plates made to your specs or to what the specialist thinks you need from your description of vehicle use. I reckon if you’re moving those sorts of loads on inclines you need a dual range box, an auto or a bigger vehicle... Cheers Bennie

Your clutch is typically under most load when engine revs are low and the throttle is WOT. Once the engine spins up a bit the clamping force on the clutch isn’t required to be as high due to its load being less. Think about when a worn clutch will slip the most - low revs and high load. A really bad clutch will slip at high revs, and would need to be babied to get there generally. If you’re pulling high revs and slipping the clutch from not fully engaging the clutch then there’s your issue with your clutch slip (that’s how it read to me). When using the clutch in this fashion I find it best to keep revs as low as possible, have just enough slip for the vehicle to move the way I want it to without the engine stalling or clanking around. High revs and slipping the clutch = lots of heat from the friction of slipping the clutch = ending up with smoking the clutch. You will no doubt have fine cracks in the flywheel friction surface and possibly on the pressure plate if it’s really bad. As Ido suggested, a turbo clutch could be the go, but you’ll need a turbo gearbox (different ratios, potentially another issue) to facilitate the pull style clutch setup. If you’re swapping gear bags you could look into importing a dual range gearbox. The low range will be 1.19:1 but it’s better than 1:1! Cheers Bennie

From what I’ve heard about the six puck racing clutches is there’s very little slip. The bite zone is very quickly the clamped zone and you’re off. Not good for a daily and a smooth ride, unless you’re full raceboy all the time. Any organic clutch disc should do the job well. A lot comes down to clamp force of the pressure plate, this can add extra stress to other components as the pedal becomes heavier to operate - another thing to consider when upgrading the clutch. I think you’ve already identified that your clutch slipping habits need to change, and that you’ve already changed some of your choices in the parking department. I’m no clutch guru, do some research, read the manufacturer’s website for info. Others here will chime in. For me I’d replace the disc, especially if it’s just my time working on the vehicle and not paying someone else. Cheers Bennie

Original radio! Respect! I couldn’t find one in Oz to save myself!! I have the complete unmolested garnish piece but no radio. One day... one day it might happen. Great adaptation work around. I’ll have to see if there’s anything locally here that’ll do the same thing. I’m currently using my first gen iPod touch with JBL flip5 Bluetooth speaker as my stez... Cheers Bennie

Bantum from Ausubaru.com.au made a thingyverse file for the spacer rings - and I think he did one for the brumby/brat indicator cancelling cylinder part Cheers Bennie

Only issue is you need to match the mount plate with the tensioner it comes with. If your EJ22 has the old separate piston design, that will be a direct swap. If your EJ22 has the tensioner arm with the piston and idler build in, then you’ll probably have to chase up the older style tensioner. Cheers Bennie