el_freddo

I wouldn’t be too concerned about that silicone, a little goes a long way when you flatten it out like that. I do question the quality of the cleaner looking box having seen it now. It was definitely open at some point, if the slaz didn’t give it away, the bolts being refitted backwards to factory does. And this points to another concern - if the builder didn’t pay attention to this rather benign detail, what other more important details did they miss/ignore? The sloppy feeling diff points to an incorrectly adjust backlash. Not the end of the world as it’s easily fixed with the sundials on either side of the diff, since the box is all closed up you’ll have to do it by feel or open the box up to gut it and play around. That is probably worth the effort given you also mention the selector shaft flops around. Sounds like a dedent ball or spring is missing. I didn’t realise the replacement box was a rebuilt one. My first thought was the GT dude re-cased it with a set of dual range EJ cases to bolt it directly to his EJ engine, but you guys didn’t get that box over there so chances are slim. Easy check is to measure the upper bellhousing bolt holes. If they’re different between the two boxes you have a set of EJ dual range cases with what seems to be L series internals (this works as I’ve done it myself three times now!). The L series box would just smoke the front tyres all the time with an EJ turbo out the front. It will eventually go bang especially if driven hard in 4wd. Otherwise they’re essentially the same as the WRX gearbox - ratios vary slightly but each gearset is the same thickness, bearings are the same size. The low range setup seems to hold up when engaged in high range, but in low it would be easy to strip gears if going too hard on the boost. I’m guessing there’s no oil in the spare gearbox to drain out and have a look at? Cheers Bennie

Run a horn relay that handles the current. Have the switch turn the relay on and off. Cheers Bennie

I’d recommend putting your money towards an EJ conversion if you can. I did an EA82 MPFI conversion on my DL wagon. This is how I “cut my teeth” on EFI systems. No joke, I literally finished the conversion and rebuild when an old teacher introduced me to the Ausubaru forum where I quickly learnt about the EJ conversion. Since doing that to my DL I haven’t looked back. The EA died a sad death when the radiator blew apart in 45°C heat in the middle of nowhere. After jerry-rigging a carb EA82 in and running it for about 18 months (it kept me going) I got the EJ22 sorted and swapped it in. The advantages? Many parts are interchangeable between EJ engines, fuel economy was better, more power, more reliability and no oil leaks! These days I’d drop a phase 2 EJ20 into the L if I did it again. I too was in my 20’s back then. Still got the car but I don’t drive it as much as I once did. That might change again soon. It’s got 530,000km on the body and I’ve offroaded it probably more than they were ever designed to. If keeping the EA82 is your only option, make sure you do a good job of cleaning all mating surfaces especially the ones that have three bond on them (I’m looking at you cam boxes!). This will keep the oil leaks at bay for a long time. Lastly, you cannot get itchy feet for more power with an EA82, they just aren’t built to make easy power gains other than replacing with said EJ conversion. Been done a thousand times now so it’s a proven setup. It sounds like you’ve got a good head on young shoulders. Kudos. Look after it! And hug your parents from us as Moosens kind of said Cheers Bennie

If you really love the EA82 you could have the engine sleeved. 50 thou over seems a lot. I thought 40 thou was as far as they went with new rings and pistons for the EA82. I could be wrong, I only ever rebuilt one before I really learned about them. Cheers Bennie

I’m in it too. I’ve picked up a few cheap Subaru projects. They get chipped away at when I can and when parts become available. Currently I’ve got my Targa Brumby (that’s what we call them over here!) that’s on the road. 2 RS turbo Libertys (Gen1) - one complete, one in pieces that I’m working on. Neither on the road. Both picked up cheap (not cheap now!). And a 1985 stamped EA81 MY wagon that I rescued from a wreckers yard where it was destined to be crushed. Its power steering rack was the reason why I found it. That went to a good cause. Anyway, side tracked there. Lastly, my offroad L series. Still registered but needs some work to bring her back to her former glory. All up these vehicles cost me $7500 to purchase. The Brumby, MY wagon and L series were all $500 specials! So I’m definitely in the thrifty category! Cheers Bennie

What other option is there? Throw in the unknown box and send it as you say. It’ll either work as it should or it won’t! Otherwise you have potentially three paperweights sitting around… Cheers Bennie

The VT commodore had a vacuum actuated tap from memory. That might work ok. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/401549783595?_skw=corvette+heater+tap&itmmeta=01JV1WVEBGSPBTEP9B9113TB8G&hash=item5d7e3b722b:g:OnkAAeSwpRRoGwiv&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eJINj5jgQt19ervaLpB6mTJVlbBUu4vglR9vmIgxvxhRqvEnQJ9doxy%2BZktYtxQqsZbJrKIht9otsWH84id9755%2BIn4cypkZl27%2FKDjPv%2BOsNEZ56AEsLRJhfG4c2ur2ajr7zjHFcU5JxN%2FWNrtoG2K1ptrcQU37fJiCbGw0K2Fo8C6CPpRgnrpt0Z5HDKMS%2FsRHx7x2D1HmCQYm5cwboEgRKEm%2FAyJisAIvLqnBIPF9%2FBi%2FMeZ4G5Ee8S1CnZI%2Bp21AmT9uMJ3RwDd4tUUigpFT6ya35g5u%2B4YLFI1ivSog%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM8uXtvNhl Or if you can find one from a Brat era EA81 they have a cable operated tap that’s a bypass setup rather than just a tap. There’s this one that popped up in my search for something else. It’s like the best setup but vacuum operated much like the VT unit, except it’s a bypass: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/113243302295?_skw=corvette+heater+tap&itmmeta=01JV1WVEBGGHWS4HTZR14X1VKH&hash=item1a5dd3a997:g:WhcAAOSwDMNkGQe4&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eL7rKl%2F2ljcIXVOOnL54JOwJ%2BUR2fbUufq%2FoaM9p7nLt85Zdd7srrSorj2BIUWgGYmb4Flk3R2uJRBAkQEtJbW%2FWyIGJoKk5hAQAJ15GBRPSVynDiwwJynUYCg83YGr%2BVPLXw3%2B7y1dsD%2BgxvfWL1RMtnFO9t0ly%2BeOt6vf2XdZjwrywR65%2BQRM6AVvBIzW6CMz8caCR3ZoI%2BBQFqFxb%2BFGy%2BT5X7AQDUVNFYSSZWq%2FU9FNhnNNkFfbK1C0qWh7oYEypRNfLV%2F2X8DJCDQK7jboTUHKNl1yQIRfpYTUXyJCQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM8uXtvNhl Damn I hate these eBay link addresses! Cheers Bennie

If you’re pulling the synchros out you might as well get them bead blasted and put them back in. This will be your issue - the synchros are worn out and smooth so they no longer grab to match the gearset speeds with the engagement hub. Rough them up and they should work properly again. Gearbox work can get tricky if you don’t know what you’re doing - but as always, the best way is to learn! Just have a back up plan if the rebuild doesn’t go as planned. Cheers Bennie

I’ve got rear discs on both my Brumby and L series without changing the standard system other than braided brake lines. The brumby is by far the vehicle with the best brakes now! The L series needs new rotors or pads after sitting around for a few years, plus it runs 27 inch diametre tyres so that takes some of the punch out of the brakes. If you’re running the old rubber hoses I highly recommend replacing them at the very least with new rubber hoses. Best upgrade is the braided. I had a kit for the brumby from an ADR approved kit from eBay that did all the stock hoses then the flexible line to the rear caliper made up by a local brake and clutch specialist to finish off the complete system. The important thing is that your fronts lock up before the rear. If you’re locking the rear up before the front I’d recommend overhauling the front brakes then looking into the front/rear brake bias if the issue persists. It’s down right dangerous to have the rear brakes lock up before the front. Cheers Bennie

And even easier if the OP is going to remove the heads. @4wdHonky- if you have a bottom end bearing issue you could swap the NA block in for the turbo one AND swap the turbo pistons in at the same time. The bottom ends are all the same, just the pistons are different for lower compression partly due to lower grade fuels and crappy tuning in the 80’s and partly for boost being applied. Personally I’d try to keep the stock turbo engine running as it is if there aren’t any other issues other than the spark plug hole. Cheers Bennie

The fuel pressure regulator is responsible for the fuel pressure. Those stats on the pump just say what it’s capable of. The fuel pressure regulator will monitor the pressure correctly as it falls within the range on the pump’s details. I’d run that pump. Cheers Bennie

A brake place worth their weight will be able to re-sleeve and service the MC so it’s as good as new. Cheers Bennie

Awesome pics and trip report as usual Todd. I reckon my favourite pic is the one you walked in for - with the two big rocky outcrops that made a saddle and the sunset in the background; the vegetation on either side of the pic give us a nice amount of colour to balance it out. Mint! Cheers Bennie

Was the torque converter properly seated before the engine was refitted? Cheers Bennie

Nah I wouldn’t touch that as it’s got the EJ25D. Smooth engine when it’s operating properly, nasty head gasket which started the whole EJ25 reputation of having forever headgasket issues. Nice looking vehicle, I’d recommend having a game plan for when that EJ25D gives you issues. STi conversion been done many times before, great candidate for it Cheers Bennie

Good effort there mate!

Springs will interchange. The only difference will be the rating of the spring and possibly the final ride height being a tad higher if they’re an uprated spring. If it levels your car out left to right it’s worth a go I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Other difference is aftermarket KYB is a gas strut and OEM genuine units are KYB oil filled. Gas filled struts naturally sit higher than oil filled struts. If a gas strut fails it collapses, if an oil filled strut fails it will leak and continue to perform its duties with diminishing performance as it loses oil. Cheers Bennie

An aftermarket head unit will always create a tiny spark when connecting the battery. Other than that the fuel pump issue is either a poorly operating alternator, old wiring with resistance points or a battery that isn’t coping as well as it used to. Lastly could be some sketchy wiring done by a pervious owner. You’d really need to check out if anything was modified before your ownership. Eg: I have a Gen1 RS turbo Liberty (Legacy over your way) that someone used the door switch circuit as the earth for the aftermarket head unit. Whenever someone opens a door the headunit turns off as the circuit becomes active. Classic (*facepalm*). Cheers Bennie

Why not replace the rear springs? There are threads on here about suitable models to find parts from. I’ve got a set of early ‘90’s civic front springs in the rear of my L series. Stiffened up the rear end nicely and allowed more load carrying which is what I wanted. I’m not sure if this would lift the rear of your 2wd significantly as I don’t know how much lower the 2wd rear sprints were vs 4wd rear springs. Spring perch is in the same spot essentially with the change in lower mount height. I hope that makes sense! Cheers Bennie

Interesting… check that you don’t have: - a snapped spring - slipped lower spring perch - crushed lower shock mount - issues with the top spring hat/mount. Other than that I’m out of ideas. If you’re in the rust belt you’ll have to discuss with someone local to you as we don’t salt roads or get snow like you do over there from what I’ve read. Cheers Bennie

G’day @libertyherb123! Checked the fuses under the bonnet? There might be some over near the battery (from memory) in a black box. Under the lid will tell you what fuse and relay is responsible for what. Did the fan ever work for you? Silly question but maybe this car is new to you and you’re checking through your list of issues to fix… Salada mate! Bennie

Measure the shocks from the spring perch to the lower mount bolt. There’s a difference between the 2wd and 4wd rear shock units. Your issue may not be a spring - it could be a 4wd shock that’s been installed somewhere along the way. Cheers Bennie

If it’s not going about 10 then weld the moustache bar mounts to the chassis rails. Same for the front mount on the rear diff. Fab up a bracket or even use two tabs that pick up the one bolt front mount above the diff. Tip: the hole on one side is larger than the other. 4wd swing arms will swap right in. Bit of a bastard if you don’t want to remove the three retainer bolts on the outer arm. These will mess with toe in and camber. If our bush not necessary to stress about them. Cheers Bennie

Been done before. May need to add captive nuts to hold the moustache bar mounts to the body. Other than that it’s a bolt in operation from what I’ve seen. If you’ve got the donor it wouldn’t be hard to work out what’s different between the two. The whole rear K frame needs to be swapped in and if you’re not running a lift you might need to swap fuel tanks if there’s no “dent” for the rear diff to sit in. Cheers Bennie