The FNG

you may also have issues if you are not using an oem thermostat from the dealership. they are only a few bucks more and are well worth it.

Hey I thought I got it timed right because it idles fine, but when you push the gas, it bogs down until the rpms come up. Any thoughts?

All I can say is to check it. Things tend to loosen due to vibrations and extremes of hot and cold. Heat shields are susceptible to both of those and the bolts/clamps may have come loose.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125107

Mine did something similar when the heat shield on the cat came loose.

Actually, that is what I was going to suggest. However, you may want to wait for someone with more experience to comment. Otherwise, I have heard of people using fine grit sandpaper to mill their own heads and stuff, maybe you could use that technique to get the surfaces flat for the intake manifold to sit on.

Yeah, put it in your book. I have some fine tuning to do though, but still good.

Thanks Miles. I did all you said in the video, I just had the disty installed wrong. I did the instructions for installing the disty that were in my first post. The dot on the gear needs to be aligned with the metal tab on the housing of the disty. Make a mark at the center of the rotor on the disty housing and install. It worked perfect, but I may still be 2or 3 off, but it runs pretty much like it should.

I could use some help with timing my distributor. I just did the HG's and complete reseal and followed the distributor timing info from Miles Fox's youtube video, but it seems like there is something else that needs to go into the equation. I got the car to run very poorly initially, enough to get it warm and fill the coolant. Then I turned it off and now I get it to start sometimes the bog out, especially when applying gas. I triple checked the timing belts and know that I am not 180* off there, but I am definitely not sure about the distributor timing. I found this info using the search: It's easy to check the disty timing in these. Set the flywheel to 20*, Look at the passenger side cam sprocket, the little dot should be at approximately the 10 o'clock position. If the dot is low on the right side rotate the engine a full revolution to 20* again. Take the 2 bolts out that snug the disty down(8 mm wrench size) unplug the elec. connector and lift the disty straight up and out. Once you have the disty out look at the gear on the bottom, it has a little circle dimple in it (Not the place where the roll pin that holds the gear on goes). Line the little dimple up with the arrow that is on the aluminum at the bottom. This will point the rotor where the num 1 plug wire goes. Take a marker and make a slash on the top lip where the center of the rotor is pointing. Drop the disty back in and make sure that when it is all the way down the center of the rotor is lined up with your little marker slash (The rotor twists as the disty goes down because of the gear). Put the bolts back in and snug them down. Then when you put your cap back on, the plug wire for the num 1 cyl goes on the terminal that is right at your marker slash. From there you can set the rest of your plug wires in their proper place. Plug the elec. connector back in and your timing is set. Best of luck to you, hope you get the little fella running again. Is this right? I also read something about connecting the green test connectors. Any help is greatly appreciated as always. 91 Loyale SPFI manual trans...

Yup, loud lifter ticking, but seems to go away when it warms up. Now if I can just get the darn thing timed right. The disty is giving me tons of trouble and I've never messed with one before, so it is proving to be difficult. Other than that, I spilled some coolant through the intake manifold gaskets when I had to loosen them to install that metal hose from the intake to the head on the passenger side, so it looked like this: . Fun times.

Does it make a difference if it is connected to the battery or the valve cover? If not then ok! otherwise, it is already connected to the body.

91 loyale EA82. same as in my signiture.

Where does the ground wire by the driver's side headlight go? Mine is black and yellow and is just connected to the body. I was thinking alternator, but???? last thing before I try starting her up!

ran into a snag with the metal tube that goes from the intake manifold to the cam carrier case...forgot to install it...ya...trying to figure out how to get it in now... Should have it going today with fingers crossed.

Should be getting mine going tomorrow after about 6 months . I'll let you know what it sounds like. I have also read that the engine will sound like ************ for the first 20 or so miles after a reseal, so don't be too discouraged.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108259&highlight=gaskets http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126359 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=123857 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122359 Start here and read these threads.

No problem, glad I could help.

I've got one too, although mine came with the car when I bought it.

I have a digital copy of the up to 1989 service manual. let me find a link to one online and I will get back to you. there is a section on the home page where members have posted all this stuff, but I think it is a little tough to find. Here it is: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=978071#post978071 you can get her from the home page by: -click older gen link -at very top of page there is an announcement for endwrench articles, click this -follow the link to the thread page Read through these thoroughly. I found enough info on EA82 engines and cars to make 6 1.5" binders of double sided paper that I use as my manuals today. Also, on this page, there are some diagrams you may find useful http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121283&page=24 although you have a carbed model I'm sure and this is for a FI model. Come to think of it, do you have an EA81 or an EA82? I can't remember what year they switched over. Never the less, there is plenty of info in the first link for both.

Isn't the horn run through a fuse in the driver's side panel? I think it's like #5 or something. Found it! Check this and report back... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65726&highlight=seatbelt+fuse

Got it scanned in and made into a PDF file. 987687, the email you sent me did not work, and l75eya you need to send me an email address if you still want it. If there is a way I can post it on the board, let me know that way people can keep from emailing it around.

Got the pm's will try to send them out tomorrow morning.

I actually printed that thread off in color with pics so I could use it. I will see if I can scan it in for you and email it to you. PM me your email if you want.

I would recommend getting your wheel bearings looked at. Does it happen while you are turning or just driving in general? I'm not sure on your wrenching experience, but they are relatively easy and cheep to replace yourself. I would say 3-4 hours and less than $50 in bearings, grease and seals plus a jack, wrenches, latex gloves and some rags. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491 check out this post and you will be able to see what it takes. Good luck. Or like zukiru said, pull a used hub from a junk yard with bearings already in it, but then it is a guess if they are still good.

I will second the Cox Mazda site. Just did it with 2 different rigs.