Razorthirty

Well the coolant temp sensor seems to have done the trick, the fans have stopped running constantly and its starting much better. Thanks guys.

Alright, Engine coolant temp sensor replaced, both fans still run constantly at start up, seems to run better now though. time will tell i suppose.. I disconnected the battery and will leave it that way for a couple hours (is that correct?)to hopefully reset the engine codes and see if the problem persists.

Car is question is a 92 Legacy, Auto, 165k miles, recent (about 3 months ago) transmission clutch pack and duty c replacement. Only tune ups in the last year have been an oil change or two, new plugs and wires, new air filter. New fuel filter coming soon. Temp sensor replacement also int he works it would seem. I got a used cam sensor from the junkyard for $10 (and a sweet pair of better taillights) and tried that, it starts up just like it did this morning, so i guess i have a spare now!

Well more interesting info, i went out this morning just because i was curious and she fired right up, with a hesitation when you touch the throttle, It chokes a bit then revvs up. Does this sound familiar to anybody? (It does have brand new good plugs and wires) I also found the location of said sensors. Google of course, shouldn't have even asked..

I did manage to get it to start by playing with the diagnostic plugs, with the green plugged IN it started, i let it run for a few seconds then unplugged it and restarted the car just fine! ran fine for a day then the next morning i am back to square one. I have not replace or looked at anything yet, i work a lot, il be able to devote some time tomorrow. Sure glad i have work truck these days.. Oh and can someone point me toward the engine bay location of said offending sensors? And maybe the test specs?

My legacy wouldnt start last weekend on me, and i went in to pull my CE codes and i discover, a code 13 (cam angle sensor), 21 (water temperature sensor), 32 (O2 sensor), 35(canister purge solenoid). The light has been on for about a year now give or take, and i guess is time to give it some love. I just wanted to check and see if anybody had any helpful advice before i try to buy a $130 sensor? Thanks

Hey guys, the story goes, my 92 lego wagon wouldnt start this morning. Crap, ok well no big deal, look at the spark plugs and wire and remember i bought a cheap-o set a couple years ago, ok. Go to the parts store, "New plugs and wires, the best please". Back home we go, installed. No go. Just bit of a chug when i first touch the key then just turns over with no attempt at starting. I dig a bit deeper to check my MIL light, (its been on for some time now) and what do i find but the black test plug is just left connected under there!! I disconnected it and lo and behold all my problems dissapear and it fires right up. Long story short, does it cause any harm to leave the little black plug just connected all the time? Its not anymore obviously but i have been driving that way for about 2 years now and have had to fix clutch pack issues already. Just curious if that exacerbated the situation maybe, thanks everyone.

This seems the most likely cause of the vibrations to me as well, get 4 new tires (unfortunately, unless you can have the exact same tire ground down to the same tread depth) and go from there.

I have a friend with a 2014 also with factory tires. i have pulled him out of the snow more then once already. GET SNOW TIRES! (hancook makes a very good and affordable option, the ipike) worth every penny.

I had the same thing happen to me, except mine had had a good amount of wobble to the pulley. the woodruff key merely holds the crank pulley in place while you torque it on it serves no structural purpose, so if you can keep it in the correct position while you tighten then you are good to go. 25k and counting on mine. p.s. there is an 'edit' button so you don't have to double post.

So i have an 88 Toyota Supra as my second car (92 lego auto wagon as the primary), and i love it. But i live in MT and it snows for half the year and the the other half is dirt and rough asphalt roads, but i am a bit addicted to the power. I have a guy that wants to trade me a 01 forester with 180k and a 'newer' motor, 5 spd, clean. Is it worth it? Are these engines just utter garbage? Can i do anything to at least get it up around 200hp? that would be fine with me. Thanks guys.

Title says it all, i must just suck at searching because i know it must be on here somewhere, anyway, i am debating on buying myself a clean legacy or impreza shell and building a wrx (or what ever turbo EJ drive train i can get my hands on) out of a pre-95 (hopefully) legacy. Has it been done? Im sure, i cant find it. Any help would be appreciated, or just discussion. Which swaps are easier, more common, ect. My goal would be 250hp at the crank, more is obviously better. 5spd or auto going to be stronger and more reliable? Being able to drift a bit (so at least a 50/50 but preferably rear bias) is pretty important as it will be my fun car. I have a normal 2.2 lego for DD.

All i know is that i have towed mine 11 miles with all four on the ground at 35-50 mph. No issues what so ever. Already had torque bind at the time though. I did drive it for 15k mile with torque bind before i could afford to fix that. Main problem from ignoring it so long was the added wear to my front end. Ball joints and Tie rods were hammered.

Edit;I was wrong, so Very sorry, but i believe that would have been obvious upon assembly.

Thanks all, i appreciate the advice very much, it may all be moot anyway as there is someone that saw it before that may or may not pay him the full asking price on monday. I have little interest in hard driving or rally cross, more highway acceleration and a bit of easy snow/dirt play. May keep looking/saving, only want to buy it once after all (rather then 'purchasing' it again in repair costs).

Well, a salvage title doesn't bother me overly much i am not going to fully insure this car anyway, if i wreck and its my fault then ill buy another car, if its not my fault then i still get money right? I am curious how you can tell the bumper/fenders are not original? Could i not just check the VIN number to see if its a real WRX? I would believe that the car got stolen and recovered with no engine in it. And Bozeman hardly has empty parking lots. Not disagreeing just asking. Well i went and saw him anyway, because i already had the meeting set up. Im glad i did, everything that seemed shady was really just an utter lack of car knowledge. He is an honest seeming young guy, parents bought him his car when he got into college and now he is moving to go to bible school and selling his old car. I think im going to do it.

Hey, so i found someone on Clist with a 02 wrx with 103k miles for $7500, im gonna go look at it this weekend, any tips/thoughts/things to look for? Torque bind, obviously.. Is the HG an issue with ej205? Interference? http://bozeman.craigslist.org/cto/4313789810.html

My MPG's dropped from 25 to 18, warming up the car, driving slower,higher friction from snow, ect.

First, sorry its so short im on my way out the door. Second, sounds like you want a legacy from the 90-96 range. (which all came with the SUPER reliable 2.2) possibly with the 96-99 ( i believe) struts to lift it a couple inches.

SO i just called the PO and asked him if he knew he was running with no air filter, apparently he had no clue which means that it had no filter the ENTIRE time he owned it. (less then 6 months), the real question now is, with no boroscope at my disposal to inspect cylinder walls, how do i check the integrity of this motor? Would the MAF have died soon enough to prevent significant engine damage? I mean i know ej22's are tough but.. Only drove it to work and back supposedly.

You dont say, guess ill be headed that direction when i can afford to buy myself a wrx

Sounds like you want a Baja, though im not sure if they came 2.2?

Sounds like a good deal to me, less clean examples got for 10-15k around here IF you can find one. Of course around here they are RUST FREE, unlike in Maine im sure.

If i am understanding you correctly, the outer tire rod 'cone' is spinning in its socket, i usually get the biggest pair of channel locks/vice grips/C clamp and pinch the tie rod to the knuckle to put some friction in there to get it tight. others may chime in with better solutions, as im no expert by any means. Edit: i like the jack method better ^.^

Looks like my local junkyard has a MAF for a 97 legacy 2.5.. the MAF will plug right in and work on a 2.2 though right?