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6 Star

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Posts posted by 6 Star

  1. Correct, you will need the EA81 Hitachi Intake Manifold to run the aftermarket Weber 32/36 Carburetor.

    There are many people out there that have them available... have you tried any of the Facebook forums? There is a lot more traffic there... I could list some of them here if you would like to try those avenues.

    Is your Subaru a 4WD? FWD? Manual or Auto Transmission?

    It is rare to find these cars in decent shape in your part of the country. Would definitely be worth taking the time to fix her up if not for you to enjoy but to sell later on to another enthusiast

  2. @torpedo51

    I spoke with Ivan over on one of the Facebook Subaru forums. He says he used the 2.0 pistons in one of his EA71 engines, the sister engine of the EA81.

    If it works in that application it should work in yours.

    It may not be the news you want to hear; but you will have to do more homework, sourcing, and more machine work if you go that route.

    Or if this is a side project, put it on the back burner until you can find the correct size pistons and rings for EA81...

    You already put the short block together... you determined with feeler gages that the pistons are now too small? Or the shop told you that they went .020 over?

    Also more news you may not want to hear; you may want to try a different machine shop next time... somewhere along the line there was miscommunication on someone's part, either you or them or both were unsure what was going on. And you said that they lost parts of yours, sounds like somebody was unorganized...

    I wish you the best in this project and hope you don't have too much $$ sunk into this or need this vehicle as primary transport

  3. @torpedo51

    Those mounts on the back of the heads would hold the brackets for the ASV's.

    The ASV system would take some of the exhaust directly from the exhaust-manifolds right as it exited the LH and RH head, send it through the ASV apparatuses, (attached at those bracket locations), and then be plumbed back into the carburetor.

    The ASV's only purpose was to try and reduce emissions. They are not necessary in States that no longer test for emissions, like us here in WA.

    I deleted my ASV's on my '85 Brat with its EA81 Engine. I simply had to weld close the then open openings to the ASV's on the exhaust manifold, and plug the receptacles with rubber plugs at the stock Hitachi Carburetor.

    I also hear you can use a quarter to seal the opening on the exhaust when the ASV pipes are removed.

    If the bosses faced forwards they would hold the tensioners for the optional air conditioning and power steering units.

    You mention this engine being in a VW? Either way the motor mounts that are beneath the block, between the oil pan and the heads, are built to withstand the engine's movement and torque, not those ASV / accesory mounts.

    You may have custom motor mounts that connect to the bottom of the block?

    Edit:

    Also, the heads are not identical. The RH head will have the port on the top/rear for the EGR connection to the intake manifold.

    Best of luck

  4. 8 hours ago, KiwiGL said:

    ...a set of near new Maxxis 185r14 muddies. These will be going on a set of Peugeot 14" steelies that I've picked up, need to get them sandblasted and painted. 

    Also need an adapter plate, lift kit and a torqlocker, and then we're done. Currently waiting on Subarino to release their L series kit...

    Also broke one of my headlight covers on a recent trip away behind Hanmer into some snow. Damn gravel roads. No fear as you can actually still buy these new, and I have two spare sets of headlights anyhow.

    vZgYlep.jpeg

    And lastly a pic of what she should look like when finished

    z7Ih0wK.jpeg

    Good thing the headlight covers were in place. Where do you source those? Are they wrap-around to also cover the corner lights? Would like to have some for my wagon as well, although the USDM corner lights do not have the protruding reflector...

    Like the look of that last example wagon picture. Aggressive tires and appears to be lifted some. Hard to tell where that is but it looks to be a LHD, Face-lifted example.

  5. @SirFireWolfeIf the vehicle had been in an accident when it was fairly new it is possible that a body shop took the time to repair it as close to stock as they could with what they had available.

    I bought a low mileage FWD Loyale Sedan that back QP and Front End body work done... pretty impressive what they did, not even mad as I knew it ahead of time before buying it just by the slight difference in panel colors.

    I know that today there is no way the same amount of effort would be put into the car so it must have happened when the car was fairly new.

    Anyway enough thats enough of that Subie story... I hope to see your Hatch when you are able to be near it and investigate it for clues

  6. On 5/27/2022 at 8:57 PM, ferp420 said:

     

    back to the ops issue from what it sounds like is pinning or knocking try adding 92 octain gas or retarding the timing a hair if it goes away its a timing issue or a bad plug issue or maybe even carbon build up on the piston creating a hot spot ether way try better gas and or adjusting the timing

     

    This.

    My GL Wagon EA82 would sound like a rattling tin can under load with "regular" fuel. With Premium Fuel the pinging pre-detonation went away.

     

    If it still persists with Premium Fuel then have a friend Rev the engine with your head under the car to determine where the exhaust leak or rattle is coming from.

  7. Nothing like someone else taking interest in what is yours to light the fire again.

    Should be as simple as massaging the brake calipers, bleeding, and going through the fuel.

    Now get-to-it!

  8. 14 hours ago, Twigg101 said:

    I've decided im gonna sell the car because its giving me more issues now and im supposed to be moving state in a month. And sorry for not giving the year and model, its an 86 gl wagon with a carberator

    @Twigg101What problems is it giving now?

    If it is as superficial as the blinker problem then the car is worth hanging onto... cheap reliable transportation can be difficult to replace for what little you will get when you sell.

    • Like 1
  9. The reason it feels "slow" could be the giant wheels and tires you are spinning with the stock engine.

    Try something closer to the stock size and you will see acceleration increase.

    You said yourself you won't be doing any crazy wheeling...

    This is the easiest solution I see.

    Best of luck

    • Like 2
  10. 10 hours ago, DaveT said:

    The ECU is bolted to the steering column.  There is a plastic panel covering it, unless someone removed it.  I remove those the first time I do anything under there, have never put one back. 

     

    Ya know those Plastic Covers keep both the 4 and the 2 Legged Rats out, if only to delay their progress...

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