AdventureSubaru

You're on the right path. Find an intake manifold from a 95-98 EJ22 to run it. If you don't want a check engine light, make sure it comes from an automatic/egr equipped. You run a hose off the EGR port hose to the IACV hose and it's good to go. The 2006 is probably not going help you much. The 1990 motor is pretty much plug and play after the intake manifold gets bolted on there. Great combo then. toys and ground clearance of the outback with more engine reliability.

It's doable. If you have some decent welding skills and some spare time, the end result is pretty nice. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f115/forester-drift-truck-437857/ has some pics and process for inspiration

If the underside is extra rusty I have snapped a couple crossmember bolts in the past. But this was wisconsin cars older than yours. Have some PB baster or similar just in case. It's pretty straightforward. drain transmission. Remove the exhaust. Remove the driveshaft. Disconnect wiring. disconnect cooler hoses.remove the axle pins. remove the 4 flex plate to torque converter bolts via the access port on the passenger side back of the motor. remove the trans to motor bolts/nuts and starter. disconnect the dog bone /upper trans mount. Slowly disconnect the transmission crossmembers. It does help to jack up the front of the motor so the trans can slide back. After the trans is back a couple inches you can pry the axles off. lower it to the ground and swap. Takes a solid day to do it. Did one with a trans jack and one with ratcheting straps around the bottom of the car. Well worth the price of a rental for a trans jack. Also make sure the torque converter on the new trans is fully seated before install or it will crush the pump and kill the trans before it ever drives. There are a few writeups on here. I measure between the starter hole and the back of the torque converter and there should only be 1/8 of an inch of space between the two if it's fully seated.

You would no doubt save some $$$ in gas by switching to a forester or baja. The subarus are better in snow over a ranger. Overall I rate the Subaru as much more dependable than rangers as well. (Turbo models being less so.) If you do go for the subaru - read up here on what to look for on signs of head gasket failure as most of the foresters/bajas fall in the years in which the gaskets usually fail once. For the best of the best reliability find a 1998 forester with a bad DOHC 2.5 motor and swap in the smaller but much more reliable EJ22 motor from a 1990-1998 subaru. Your only disadvantage as mentioned is that you wont have a full truck bed. I prefer outbacks over foresters since you can fold the back seat down and have a similar amount of hauling ability as a small truck. Bajas are great cars - just outbacks with truck beds. By comparison they are a lot more expensive than an outback of same year and mileage. But they sure are head turners. Good news is you cant go wrong. Rangers are great little trucks and subarus are versatile, tough cars that are easy to work on. Either is a good option. If you were a kia driver, I'd try harder to convince you of a subaru, but I've loved Rangers as well.

Usually you can feel the rubber on whether it is still good or getting rough dry rotted. Haven't seen a burst one. Had one go bad near the clamp. Managed to push the hose on further and re clamp it until I could replace it. If/when replacing, I would also do the little hose off the water pump. Those are often in rough shape. Heater core hoses dont seem to fail much but are worth an inspection to make sure.

Yep. just make it a long block swap and you're good to go. You could run it with the 97/98 intake manifold too, but you end up splicing a few intake hoses together.

I'm partial to goodyear and BFG tires as they have proven dependability and do not dry rot easily like michelin does. Consider finding a cheap set of 15 inch subaru rims on craigslist for more selection on tires. For height, you can lift a 90s legacy with 96-99 outback or 98-08 forester suspension for a couple inches of suspension lift that will clear up to a 28 inch tire. Makes a pretty capable trail rig at that point.

Depending on the hitch style - yes. you need to drill to mount them. Did this for my wife's 2011. Not a bad job. This also means you have a beefier class 2 or 3 hitch instead of those little bumper mounting types. Well worth a little extra effort to have a solid hitch with more capability.

Stuff you probably already know - SOHC EJ25s had head gasket issues but to a much lesser degree than the DOHC motor. External leak almost every time. If fixed right (OEM turbo gaskets and head resurfacing) it will not likely fail again. I liked the feel in my 2000 outback. I put one in an impreza once and it was quite peppy. No drag racer but excellent power on demand in a small car. Not sure the weight of an RX7 but should be plenty for sporty driving. I have an 01 2.5 motor in my garage. I can put a tap measure to it tomorrow afternoon if no one has the info.

If it came off a 99 it will fit a 97. Usually have to drop the muffler and evap canister to install. But it will fit. I put a 95-99 style one on my 2000 outback. 3 of the 4 holes lined up. I welded an extra plate on for the 4th.

Yep. As mentioned, the head gaskets were a fault on those motors, but once repaired (Correctly with OEM turbo gaskets and resurfacing) will not likely fail a second time. These years leaked externally so they don't overheat until they run themselves low on coolant. Otherwise they are long lasting and durable. My wifes 2000 was over 380,000 miles when we sold it (still running) and a friend of mine has an 02 with 365,000 miles. Check timing belt service and bring it to current if unsure with a gates timing kit. A failed belt or idler will trash the valves. Check for torque bind by driving slow tight circles and feel for shuddering/shaking. Tires should be matching and rather evenly worn on tread. Those are the big issues that should be scoped out. They are excellent cars overall and are comfy with a smooth ride and good power. The H6 was surprisingly quick on these cars and is also known to be quite reliable. They are still holding their value but they are 10-15 years old so make sure you do plenty of investigation to spot issues and get a feel for how well the car has been maintained. There's plenty of time for them to be run into the ground by a neglectful owner and I've seen more than a couple where sellers are selling them at early stages of head gasket failure as if nothing is wrong to avoid the large looming repair bill.

Good info. Newest trans I ever pulled was a 2002.

Sounds like the start of a repeat head gasket failure alright. As mentioned, if you take it to one of those guys, they'll make sure it's done right. You can probably limp it along a little while by adding coolant/burping air regularly, but don't let it run hot or you can add to your problems. Head gaskets done right will last the lift of the car now. Especially if the turbo gaskets are used.

Yup. That's phase 1 (Which makes repair a bit cheaper/easier) Best fix is a 95-98 EJ22 from a legacy or Impreza with automatic transmission. (Those from a manual trans run fine but will throw a check engine code since they have no EGR) 95 is the magic year because everything will bolt up 100% to your car. It's also non interference which is an added bonus. 96-98 bolt in 99% - you just need the exhaust y pipe from the EJ22 since it's single port. car-part.com is a great resource for finding local used motors. Can be found for as little as $300 in good condition and most will come with a 30-90 day warranty. EJ22 has little in the way of head gasket troubles and when maintained will last about 3 times as long as the DOHC motors. Repairing the original 2.5 is a real gamble since it overheated. Heads can warp and the rod bearings were weak on those motors. Used DOHC motors are a gamble too and don't tend to last as long.

Yours should be phase one. If it's an EJ25 (stamped on the block behind the alternator) it should be two cams on each side (DOHC) The front timing covers would look like a bowtie in shape. Phase 2 would be single overhead cam (SOHC) Google some pictures of a DOHC subaru motor and a SOHC subaru motor and you'll see it right away. Phase 1 DOHC motors can be replaced with the phase 1 EJ22 (1995-1998) motors for longer life/better reliability. I reccomend it highly. Usually cheaper to buy 2.2 anyway

pull it from the top. super simple. I just did a writeup on the remove and reinstall if you want the visuals.

I've never had trouble with a small flathead screwdriver and some needle nose pliers. I try to puncture the seal edge rather than keep it right on the shaft surface to get a little pry on it. Once it's out far enough to grab, the pliers do the rest of work.

Yeah. I feel like this is just dancing the dance. It's going to be a head gasket job.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html Follow this. You'll notice a few small differences as yours is a little newer and a legacy, but the job is basically the same. You can do as fairtax suggested. I've always moved the trans back a few inches and slid the axles off without detaching ball joints. Whichever seems easier to you. It takes a day, maybe two the first time, but it's not a hard job. Manual trans is surprisingly light. I don't even use a trans jack.

Junkyard for the MAF - You can get 3-5 of them for a cost of a mid level aftermarket. Confirm that it fixes your issue and then grab a spare. They don't fail that often but can make the car go a little nuts when they do. You're making me homesick with the photos of pictured rocks! Used to be a few times a summer I'd drive up either there or to the porkies for a long weekend of backpacking and such in my lifted Impreza. Miss those wild places but not the clouds of mosquitos. Great build and great idea on an H6 low range. Toyed with that idea myself and would have been heading that way if I hadn't been gifted a dual range 4runner.

For Imprezas, don't forget the trailing arm brackets from a 96-99 Outback to keep the wheel centered. Otherwise yes, throw a set of used struts and springs from a 96-99 outback or 98-08 Forester and you'll clear those tires and bigger.

Great write up!

You are in the best possible place for advice on these 80s cars. All the old school subie lovers congregate here. First of all, Welcome! Secondly, yes, write a description of what quirks and issues you're looking to resolve. Discussion on here will yield lots of insight. You'll learn quick if you talk to folks on here and try your hand on the car. A Haynes Subaru 1600 & 1800 manual will cover your car from top to bottom and is a great resource for beginners. Can be bought on Ebay or Amazon for about $15-$20. These are great cars. Very dependable. Make sure to keep oil and coolant topped off and it should take good care of you. The other great thing about them is they are simple and easy to work on. A rust free 1980s subaru is the perfect car to learn on.

Thanks guys. Thought of two more tips that can help dodge potential trouble 1. If swapping from EJ25 to an EJ22 or EJ18 the flex plate must match the trans, Bolt the EJ25 flex plate to the EJ22 motor before you install. (Actually goofed on this one twice!) 2. When removing bolts from flex plate to torque converter, use only a 6 point socket and not a 12. They are tight enough that the 12s will round off the bolt head where a 6 will break it free. Luckily been able to get the bolt rounded off by the 12 off with a 6 but others may not be so lucky

Sounds like a more solid plan than the original. Gather the parts slowly and cheaply. Read, read READ on the swap and wiring in particular and proceed when ready. IMO that H6 is a boat anchor now. Would cost more to fix it than a good used one would. To each their own if he wants to try and fix it.