AdventureSubaru

Probably. You need to confirm the motor in the 99 is Phase 2 (SOHC 2.2 or 2.5) if it's the DOHC motor it wont work. Post up a pic of the motor and we can confirm. Assuming the phase 2 EJ22 then just swap in the 02 motor along with the matching dual port exhaust manifold. You will likely also need to swap the drivers side cam pulley and crank sprocket over from the original motor so the computer can read correctly.

Drivers side rear. Turboed an H6? Gotta see some pics of how you fit that.

Does the AT temp light flash or stay on? I'm still going with a crunched wire. Follow the wiring down the side of the trans to see what may have been pinched. If the pump busted your car would not move. If it comes to a new trans you'll pay what the car is worth for a rebuild. Usually best to find a good used one for a few hundred bucks and swap it in.

Good clarification. I re-read the original post and realized that the distinction between lower end/short block was kinda fuzzy.

Glad it was simple!

alignment should be no issue. it's all the same as aligning a forester. If an alignment has not been done, most shops can do one for under $100

I'd start by checking fuses. EFI maybe? Big and small. But go through the fuses and if you find any blown, replace, reset codes and see if it comes back. Surges can blow them. Had this happen a few times when charging or replacing batteries. Same could happen from jumping another car.

If it checks out as advertised, I'd say it's worth 3k. Has a lot going for it. Best package of EJ22 and outback. Non interference motor. Timing belt is done. East coast but rust free. If I were looking for one, I'd be willing to pay a bit extra for such advantages.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117456-stellaaaaaaaanew-pics/?hl=stella Monstaru put 235/75/15s on one. He used 07 forester struts and can't remember whether it was 1/2 inc or 1 inch spacers. But it can be done. If you get a spare rim/tire with the 235 you can test fit with plywood spacers before you make or buy the real stuff.

Thats a good setup. Did it smooth out after running for a while? SUbarus make some clatter noise sometimes when cold or sitting for a while. Or if oil gets low/thin.

The 99 would swap. Read up on frankenmotors as this would be what you would end up with. Can't remember whether you would use the MLS or composite head gaskets for it though. I have a good 2.2 block from a 96 Impreza for sale on craigslist right now if you fancy a drive westward. Or I've fedexed a block before somewhat reasonably.

Check tension on your AC belt and make sure it's sitting properly. Dexron III ATF is just for the trans. Usually the cheap stuff works fine in Subarus. If shifting is goofy or it's high miles, there are some cocktails that folks have recommended. Front and rear diffs will take gear oil like a manual transmission does. Search on here for what other folks have used. The transmission is a 5MT and again, expensive brands are not necessary, just the right weight of oil for the climate and conditions you'll be driving in most of the time.

x2. You'll save yourself a repeat failure down the road by replacing the idlers and sprocket. Ebay kits go for about $75. Tensioner and water pump are not a bad idea but I treat them as more optional depending on condition and mileage. Good motor. Sounds like it will be back on the road soon.

classic seperator leak is my guess. Sounds exactly like my old 97 Impreza. After 1/4 million miles it was going through a quart between changes and especially after going on long uphill climbs I'd get smoke out from under the hood. They always drip right onto the exhaust. If it's managable and you're topping oil off, just leave it. Gotta pull the engine or trans to access it. Put it on the "to do" list if you ever have either out. Dealership has a stainless steel upgraded version and new bolts for about $30. if you ever do clutch etc. Til then, just keep it topped off and ignore the smoke.

I've bought a few similar cars for the sole purpose of fixing them as daily drivers so it's very worth fixing. Yup. grab a cheap belt/used one and throw it on there. I'd say you have a very high chance of valve damage but you never know. Google search will show you the timing marks for SOHC subaru motors. Big thing is to align the hash mark on the back of the crank sprocket and not the arrow on the top. Assuming valve damage. You can do a swap with good used heads. 99-02 2,2 heads or 99-02 SOHC 2.5 with a matching Y pipe will fit. resurface heads and buy subaru head gaskets. About $400 and a day in the garage. (Make sure you know how to properly seat the torque converter!) Or - I have put two phase 2 EJ20 SOHC motors into outbacks and they are very peppy motors. I've sourced them for $600 in my area and they are between 30k and 60k. Keep the original intake manifold and associated stuff. Also put the drivers side cam pulley and the crank pulley from the original motor to match the USDM computer. Long block swap and you've got loads of miles left on the cheap. It's a bummer when this stuff happens, but live and learn. A few hundred dollars and a day or two of wrenching and it will be back and better than before.

Did the 2002s have a FWD fuse? I don't think there was one in my 2000 outback

X2 on the IACV hose. Done this twice and it will fire for a second and either die right away or run like a slug, just barely running.

If it's driving and shifting then that would indicate the pump is okay. Is the trans light blinking on startup? Flashing AT temp is indicative of an electrical problem. I did it once when I creased the trans pan jacking it up. It clipped a wire in there and the trans was goofy. I got a good used pan and spliced the wire back together and all was fine. Look underneath and see if the trans pan is crimped or buckled anywhere from jacking it up. It's thin metal and doesn't take much to pinch a wire. Another possibility would be that the external wiring got pinched between the unibody and transmission. What you're describing does sound like torque bind or similar. Goofy ABS can come and go too. To check if it's an AWD issue, pull the rear half of the drive shaft and drive in FWD. If the problem goes away in FWD then there is a bind issue to chase. Doesn't happen often, but certainly possible that you are looking at another issue not related to the motor R&R.

Yeah. there are some parts where subaru specific is worth the extra $$$. But knock sensors are not one of them. The cheap ones from ebay, amazon etc. work fine. To be clear, you have the motor cranking now but not starting? Or is it not turning over yet? If it's not cranking and the motor isn't seized then it's one of the following - battery, battery cables/ground/contacts, starter solenoid, starter. If you know you have clean connections and a good battery you can get a good used starter for about $25. off someone on row52.com and move forward. If it is cranking but not starting it's usually one of three things. No spark - you've confirmed. No fuel - you've tried spray. Timing related - Check and triple check belt. Are the crank sprocket and cam sprockets original to this car? There were a few variations on these years and the wrong ones will send incorrect signals to the computer and result in a no start. Bad cam and crank sensors. Worst case scenario is that the timing off before you got it resulted in bent valves and that could very well cause a crank and no start. In which case a known good set of used heads and a head gasket job are a good solution. I've also installed JDM import EJ20 motors for about the same cost as a DIY head gasket job and love them. Just swap the original intake manifold etc. and the original drivers cam pulley and the crank sprocket over and it will run the same. But again, this is worst case scenario.

Those tend to be very good motors so long as (like any subaru) they never get run too hot or run out of oil. My wife's first outback was had the phase 2 2.5 and it was over 360,000 when we sold it (Still running) Co worker of mine got one that the original motor was at 365,000 and it died prematurely from the timing belt going. It now has a JDM ej20 in it. Thinking I may make some conversion spacers that would allow a phase 2 intake manifold bolt to phase 1 heads. Otherwise it would be a messy swap. Been done, but kind of a pain.

Kept the 2.2 manifold and wiring. I ended up looking at the pic of the diagram for the 10th time and noticed the difference between the hoses and steel lines. The back of the canister line was capped. I got another T connector and put it together correctly I think. Going to take it on a drive tonight and see if the CEL comes on again or if it's good to go now.

This car was a basketcase when I got it. Shifter linkage coming apart, clutch turned out to be slipping too, EJ22 in it had a loud tap and blown head gaskets (Guy used home made copper gaskets for heads?) and wiring was spliced a few places on the motor. Found a low miles 95 EJ18 and swapped it in along with a new clutch kit. Runs great. Smooth idle and great power. Can't tell the difference between EJ18 and EJ22 in the impreza. I keep getting a p0441 code for purge flow. I found that the vacuum hoses were not properly routed by the PO. I followed the sticker under the hood and got everything in as designed (I think) and still get the light after a few miles of driving. Gas cap holds pressure just fine. Hoses are in good shape. Passed the brake cleaner test but I'll try again to be sure. Here's the only part I'm unsure of. The line on the left side of the purge solenoid in the diagram splits and goes to both the SSV and the other says "to canister" This one has a front canister that connects to steel lines (picture 2) Anything I should change there? Ideas for what's next? I may have a spare purge solenoid, pressure sensor and SSV around. If I find them I may throw parts at it.

Welcome! Lifted Imprezas make very capable little rigs. Used to have the same setup with a green OBS that I lifted. Someday I may get back into one and do a full dual range swap. But with standard AWD I forded rivers, desert sand and mountain trails no problem. Only time I nearly got stuck was in a muddy field, but some more aggressively treaded tires would have fixed that issue as well. If you haven't read it yet there's a "How to lift your impreza" sticky in the off road section with lots of good info. Most notably the small adjustment for drilling tophats/adding strut top spacers in the rear so no clanking. And 2 - if you don't have them, get a set of trailing arm brackets from a 96-99 Legacy outback to keep your rear wheels centered in the wheel well. After that you can clear 28 inch tires with a little trimming. And... post up some pics of the process! These cars look great lifted.

Also can be the classic oil separator plate leak. On these 90s motors they were plastic and would leak over time. They drip between engine and trans right onto the exhaust. Unless it's a larger leak it's harmless. Just keep your oil topped off and you're good to go. It's about a $30 fix with a dealer upgraded stainless steel part if you even have the engine or trans out.

First Ej18 swap. Done a few 2.2 swaps to replace 2.5s but got a 96 Impreza outback with a 2.2. Existing motor has a botched head gasket job that is leaking bad and some tapping that has yet to go away and may or may not be a noisy HLA. Local yard had a 95 Impreza with EJ18 with only 82,000 miles for $200. It's stilling in the driveway with intake manifold pulled and almost ready for to pull the motor and drop this one in tomorrow on my day off. This is what I wasn't sure about. Not on any EJ22 I've seen and not mentioned in the writeups I've read. What is it? Do I cap it off or what do with it to drop in place of an EJ22?