AdventureSubaru

Bubbles in the overflow only indicate head gasket leakage if you are sure that the system is full. Exhaust gasses get forced into the coolant creating the bubbles. If the coolant is low, you get the bubbles anyway because there is air in the system. Top it all off and check for leaks. EJ22s do not have head gasket issues often.

Usually no heat means low coolant. Top off the radiator and fill the reservoir and idle it in the driveway. Squeeze the upper rad hose back and forth to help work out air bubbles. If it starts to overheat, turn it off, cool it down and repeat the process. If full for sure, you could have a blockage or stuck thermostat. Replace thermostat with Subaru OEM and see what happens.

Trans pan is the way to do it. As you said get some plywood or something to spread the weight further. I creased one once and got a trans code afterwards. Had to replace the trans pan and splice a wire back together after that. But if you spread the weight toward the corners and dont jack the trans all the way into the unibody, you're good to go.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137829-using-a-non-egr-engine-in-subaru-with-egr-exhaust-gas-recirculation-valve/?hl=hose I've done it 3 times. Use a 3/4 inch brass T junction from Home Depot for about $4. An extra breather hose from one of the valve covers works fine. And 2 small hose clamps. I cut the EGR tube and clamp the hose over it. Then heat the end of the hose with a heat gun so it will fit over the 3/4 inch T. (Or add a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer fitting and a few more hose clamps) Connect it all and tighten your hose clamps and enjoy check engine light free driving!

I've done this very swap before. it's easy. The wiring will work from your 99 but you will need an intake manifold from a 95-98 Ej22. Wiring on the 95-98 Ej22 is the same. If it has EGR, you can incorporate it with no check engine light. If no EGR, you run a hose from where the EGR would otherwise meet the head, but connect it with a coupling on the hose to the IACV (There's a write up with pictures on here somewhere) and no check engine light. You can always just cap the EGR if check engine light is not an issue. And just remove the flywheel and replace with flex plate on the back.

Waste of time and $$$ for a subaru. If you're wanting more power, reduce weight, fresh electrical tune up, seafoam. Ej22 is not a powerhouse. If you want a fast one, look at the guys who put an EZ30 in a 90s legacy. Power gains from such modifications as cold air intakes will probably not even register for these cars. If it were that easy, Subaru would have done it.

Just take the flex plate off the motor and install the flywheel from your car and you're good to go. It all swaps over. Exedy brand clutches are reccomended.

Shipping doesn't look like a problem. He's got a Haitian drivers license to pick up on the other side. We need the title and power of attorney on this side. Should go smooth once it's there. Brainstorming and gathering parts. I plan to send spares on things such as fuel pump, sensors etc. The trick will be keeping customs from stealing stuff out of it along the way. Apparently this is standard behavior for Haitian customs. I may bolt a plate of steel or plywood over the spare tire well and put them in there. We pulled out and washed the pine needles off of it today. Natalie was stateside and visited us this weekend. It was missions month at our church so she was able to lead part of our Sunday service. She got to see the "before" version of the car. Next question... to beef up the rear suspension a bit, will going with 2008 Forester KYB GR2 struts on the stock outback springs give a little extra boost to the back end? Probably paired with some strut top spacers and something like a 215 70 15 or similar.

Unless it was a GT yeah, it would be the immortal EJ22 motor. As mentioned, 1997 is an interference motor. Check your timing belt and make sure that it is relatively new. This would be top priority as a failed belt or idler can cost you your motor. A gates kit is in the $120. range and takes about 2 hours to do the job. Cheap for dependability and peace of mind. Otherwise, check your fluids. Oil changes routinely and as a religion. Trans fluid is a good idea. Drain and fill. Regular cheap ATF is good to go. Coolant and OEM or Stant thermostat. Secondary would be electrical tune up. NGK spark plugs and wires. If you drive far or don't have good access to towing a junkyard or cheap ebay alternator and fuel pump motor are easy to stash and are there in case one ever leaves you stranded. These 90s legacies are some of the most dependable ever made. Good choice!

x2. Just be sure that it's nested in there right and that one starter bolt is good and tight and just drive it.

Could be a blockage in the radiator. Thermostat stuck closed. Or as mentioned, a bad water pump. If you end up needing one, I have a few good used ones laying around that you can have for a couple bucks plus shipping... if it comes to that. How new is the thermostat? OEM or aftermarket? I am assuming you've topped it off and ensured that the coolant levels are full.

I think Jerry (BratsRus) has a conversion kit for the 5 speed to go into the place of the 4. It's VERY similar, but small changes along the way. My brain is fuzzy since I haven't worked on one of this generation in a while. But the linkage may be compatible. Do some searches on here. Been done plenty of times. All the answers will be out there. The 5 speed is a better transmission all around. 5th gear for highway. Better gas mileage. Gearing is a little lower for off road. And the synchros dont go out an lock up your trans like the 4 speeds do over time. It's a great upgrade.

Anything that moves under its own power is worth $500. As long as the paperwork is transferable, there's not much downside. Push buttons are fine for romping around on trails, camping, fishing, hunting etc. It will do better than my old Impreza with AWD for sure, and I took that car almost everywhere. Dual range is needed more for the off roading crowd. Car lots usually price with some negotiating room. You may be able to bring it home for $350 or $400 if you give a cash offer.

What's the transmission code? White strip on the bellhousing in front of the starter. Auto or manual? I have an automatic transmission from a 2000 Impreza RS that would bolt in. Would need the code from yours to know whether it's the same final drive or not. I'll be going to Los Angeles/Azusa this weekend so if it's a match I could actually bring it to you.

There is a very long list of things that can throw the p0420 code. Rarely is it ever the cat itself. Replacing the cat is a last resort. As mentioned, see what happens after a new knock sensor is installed. Bad knock sensors can make the motor all kinds of goofy sometimes.

yeah, Subaru changes part numbers around a lot. But for those years a legacy strut/spring is a legacy strut/spring. Throw em in.

It's generally expected on these motors that it will need head gaskets once in it's life. Usually between 100-170k. It's a job, but not ridiculously expensive if you shop around for a good shop. Or can be done yourself in a day even for a first timer if you aren't shy about wrenching. The stop leak stuff has been met with mixed results. Sometimes it does nothing. Even when it "works" on a Subaru it seems to just be a band aid and buys you time before it fails again. But this can be useful if you need some time to save the $$$ to pay for the job. Expect to pay between 600-1200 in labor depending on your region or spend a solid day on it if you do it yourself. (Actually a little longer since you should have the heads resurfaced at a machine shop and will have to wait on them.)

photobucket.com and then insert the image link into the text. Would love to see pics of it.

Most stuff for Impreza and WRX will swap in fairly readily. Exhaust will get you louder but does not affect horsepower much. Sometimes better top end but more sluggish from a stop. Coilovers should be the same between Impreza and Legacy. Different tophats maybe. Intake will not help anything.

That's what I figured with so many universal types. Just didn't want to get sparks or do the job for nothing. Dropping the exhaust tomorrow I guess.

Trip to pick n pull and $30 later it's running just fine with a JEGS pump motor in there. Drove it for a half hour and have the pending code p0130. Going to replace the front o2 sensor next I guess. Question is - I have an o2 sensor from the same location on an Impreza but the wiring harness is not a match. Can I splice it in? Two white wires and one black. Does it matter which white wire goes where? Hate to spend $60. on a sensor when I could use this one.

219 is nothing for this motor if well maintained. I've worked on a few that have gone over 350k on original motors. At that mileage it has already had headgaskets done once most likely but unless they were installed improperly, should not be failing again. Check your hoses, check the edges of the coolant manifold, temp sensor etc and be darn sure it's not a leak. If the head gaskets are not the problem just run it. These are good motors. They don't stand up to abuse/neglect as well as the 90s ej22s but are still a 300k and 400k motor if cared for. Car looks sharp. Regardless of the path to get it running well, I'd say you got a deal!

Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected the main wiring harnesses. Disconnected the o2 sensors and started it up. Again, seemed fine for about 30 seconds and started hesitating. This time though, I could hear a buzzing/humming sound coming from the back of the car. Pulled the plate above the fuel pump and can hear VRRRR-vrrrr-VRRR!!!! VRRR etc. Buzzing and struggling along. Safe to say that the pump is about shot. Just to be sure it wasn't strained by a blocked filter, I swapped a known good used filter on since the one in there looked original and no change. Wiring looks good. Gonna grab a fuel pump from the junkyard in the next day or two.

Milk jugs?

They are still selling well on Ebay. I know that company sucks but even with the fees, you'll get way more than $20 each for scrap cats.