AdventureSubaru

If you're convinced it's the throwout bearing - here's the best write up for a clutch job (or related) http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html I've done it without fully pulling the trans but it makes for a tight and more uncomfortable job. If you're new to it, better to take an extra hour and drop it fully and give yourself room. Unless you know that the clutch is low miles, you should do it all now. Exedy is the preferred brand. Replace the J clips for the throwout bearing and the clutch fork retainer clip. re-using them is often asking for them to fail a few miles down the road. Any subaru dealer can get them for you and last I checked they are also available on ebay.

Yes.

Often, I'm the one answering these questions but this car is new enough that I'm not as familiar. Picked up an 05 Outback with a blown Automatic trans on the cheap that I'll probably turn into my new DD/light trail driver. Car-part.com only lists 05 outbacks on the searches. i know the prior generation body style ended in 04 but have no idea where the phase 2 4eat ends and anything else begins. I assume the foresters still had the same final drive as outbacks but not much to go off of. Anyone know what the compatibility of years/models for this one should be? I can probably save some $$$ with a broader search than just 2005 outbacks.

$100 for the set is not bad. I paid more than that here stateside for used forester struts to lift my legacy. If they're in decent shape, I don't mind buying used because, while they wont have the long term life of a new set, they save $$$ and save time when you can swap the whole assembly rather than disassemble each one to swap just the struts. Compressing springs scares me. I'd rather do a motor swap than swap a full set of new struts. When you're ready for new - KYB is highly recommended. American made is fine too. Avoid the inexpensive chinese made though. Lots of reviews of them failing inside 10,000 miles.

What about the retainer clip on the clutch fork? New or re-used?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/159902-1990-2004-ej18-ej22-ej25-diy-complete-engine-remove-and-reinstall-guide/?do=findComment&comment=1351416 Here you go. This was an earlier ej motor so you'll have 8 bolts on the bellhoising instead of 4. Different air box too. Otherwise about identical. The motor already has a failing head gasket. Ensure that it has not been overheated. Diy head gasket job is about 400 in parts and cost for a machine shop to resurface the heads. I'd look into car-part.com and see if there's a better option nearby. Check with a want ad on here too.

Yeah. You'd do fine with that motor. Depending on the history of it. Look up what to look for - mostly external head gasket leaks (some weeping is normal) Compare prices on car-part.com I have a writeup on here for a complete remove and reinstall of an EJ motor. takes about a day on average to drop one in.

What differences are you noticing? Both 2001 outback and the 2002 forester had the EJ25 SOHC motor. The attached image looks like the EJ25 for sure unless someone swapped an EJ22 or EJ20 in there previously.

Yep. Rear tophats may be different but you can swap the legacy ones on there if so. As mentioned there may be slight differences but unless you are running oversize tires, it wont be an issue.

yes. The 2002 forester engine will fit just fine. You remove the flywheel from the motor with the manual trans and bolt the flexplate from your motor to it. Swap the drivers side cam pulley and the crank sprocket over to the new motor so they match the ECU in your car. (This is good practice for ANY replacement motor on subarus of these years) Good time for new timing belt kit since it needs to come off anyway. Double check the sensors on your car to the forester. It may be MAF instead of MAP. If they are different, just keep the intake manifold/wiring from your car. (A long block swap)

The engine is Phase 2 and looks like MAP sensor. I'll continue to encourage you to pull the codes. If you're sure fuel isn't the issue, check spark and timing. other possibilities - massive vacuum leak somewhere. knock sensor.

Good call. For some reason I was under the impression that it was a 94. Disregard my previous post.

I have a write up in the newer gen section for a complete EJ remove and reinstall. Pulling the EA motor would go even faster. It's a long list but no one step of it is really any harder than changing out brake pads. I have enjoyed a few romps and backpacking trips to the U.P. We used to live in southern wisconsin. The first transmission swap I ever did was a used one from a forester purchased in Grand rapids. So heck, if you get as far as having the EJ stuff lined up, let me know. Maybe I can use it as an excuse for some more sight seeing.

Yes. 85 brat will be the EA81

This one is still stomping around down in Haiti. 1996 Legacy outback Spacers AT2 tires in 215 70 15B Battering ram of a bumper. Bed frame turned roof rack

Welcome! Love the old brats. Luckily very easy to work on and lots of folks to answer questions. Hardest part is often finding the parts, but there's a pretty good network here for that too. Being familiar with local junkyards and car-part.com helps too.

Hydraulic lash adjusters.(HLAs) Most of the time they quiet down with a fresh oil change and get progressively louder when the oil thins or especially if it gets low. Marvel mystery oil can help. Very normal for these motors as they get into their golden years. If they get bad/stay bad they can be pulled, replaced or re primed. Usually though some clatter on a cold start up or after sitting for a few days is par for the course for these motors and not indicating anything wrong.

If the fork is okay, the likely culprit is either the throwout bear clips or the retainer clip on the back of the clutch fork. (Or that it got bumped somehow and popped off the pivot point. At this point I would disconnect the clutch cable and grab the top of the clutch fork to see if you can feel whats going on. Is it attached to the pivot point or loose and flopping around? Does it seem to side and push as it should or just flex? If it's the fork in some way you'll probably feel something.

1st question - driving around day to day are essentially the same. 2wd vehicle will get slightly better fuel economy. 4wd will have the option to shift into 4wd for snow/trails etc. 2nd. Other than higher RPMs than most at cruising speed, not that I'm aware of, but more knowledgable folks may be aware of some. 3rd. Yes but.... we're talking about 30 year old vehicles here. So same applies as anything in this category. 30+ years and all that time, mileage and opportunity for neglect, abuse, long sits and such mean lots of variables. The design was fine and many have gone for very high miles. But they are old and becoming obsolete. Do your research on what to look for. Even better is if there's someone in your neck of the woods that knows these specific cars very well and can take a look and give an impartial opinion. I love the platform and if it weren't for road salt in my area, would still drive one.

Does the noise occur with the transmission in neutral when you rev the engine? Or only under load with the clutch engaged?

The weather is turning warm and it's been a while since I've wrenched much on anything. I'm likely going to replace my lifted 98 Legacy with an 05 outback project I picked up. The plan is about a 4 inch lift, 30ish inch tires and the usual basket rack, fog lights, bumper and such. I don't expect to be too rough on it, (I have a 4runner for the bad stuff) but ever since I bumped a curb in a mitsubishi about 7 years ago and set off the air bags I'm about as nervous about air bags as accidents. Would like to put a couple interior switches in to "disarm" the air bags and kill the ABS for trail time. ABS shouldn't be hard. Just pulled fuses in the past. While I can swap a motor on one of these cars in an afternoon, I have never messed with air bags - so here I am. Those who have built air bag equipped off roaders - what have you done? What can you recommend? Ditto for any ABS setups.

The cables can break. Not often, but ensure the end is operating properly. Is the top of the clutch fork moving properly but not engaging the clutch?

I'd probably ignore the bearing unless its growling after the repair.

I know there are a few u pull its in the Denver area. Once you locate what's bent, that's often the way to go for used parts. Some keep an inventory of cars in the yard. Some dont. If not - Car-part.com is extremely helpful. You pay a little more sometimes but don't usually have to pull the part yourself (Or I've been to a couple that discount it if you pull it yourself. Insurance companies may have made this a non option these days. Usually the part will be warrantied for 30-90 days too.

No. 99 was phase 2. You should be hunting for a 95-98 from an outback or 98 only forester. Always use the trans codes to check the final drive ratio and be certain.