All_talk

I'm not sure about the EA81 cars but I know that all the EA82 cars have a single core radiator with plastic side tanks, except the turbo cars with the auto trans, which have the all brass two core. There are slight differences but both fit. Gary

A supplemental fuel/control system may be a part of the solution but you will still have to clamp the MAF signal to avoid hitting the fuel cut. The piggyback system will have to come in strong at the point where the stock ECU goes max pulsewidth but provide little or no additional fuel below that point to avoid running overly rich. A system that provides progressively more fuel with RPM and boost pressure will not integrate well with the stock ECU, what is need is one that will only pick up where the stock system leaves off. I’m sure these systems exist but as always cost is the issue. Just a few more thoughts Gary

GREAT Work Kevin, you are the man. I’m really surprised how well the EA82T is responding to the mods, there may be a little more in this engine than I thought. Look at the flatness of the torque curve, that’s good volumetric efficacy across a wide RPM range. And look at the power right up to 6300RPM, maybe these heads don’t flow that bad after all. Gary P.S. I wish I was closer to you, I’d love to help out with the tweaking and tuning.

If it got that hot I'm gonna bet the heads are cracked. Gary

Spectacular! Great work, I wish I were out there with you. I was heartbroken when I added up the cost of running a season of local club rally, never mind the cost of prepping the car, just not in my budget.:-\ So I will have to live vicariously through you. How did the car perform? What class are you running? How did you finish (did you finish)? Details man, we need lots of details… you're living the dream. Wanna be ralliest Gary P.S. that last pic is GREAT... I'm so jealous.

Its normally used to put a Subie engine in a VW or sandrail. Kennedy engineering make adapters and flywheels to mount just about any engine to a VW trans. Gary

They make a cleaner specifically for MAFs (different than the carb/throttle body cleaner), check at the parts store. I used it to clean mine a while back, I didn’t notice any performance change, but it looked pretty clean before and I wasn’t having any real trouble. The “hot wire” itself is pretty delicate so don’t go blasting away with the garden hose or blowing off with compressed air. BTW, I’m not sure if the EA82 has the “burn off” feature but it might (mentioned in the FSM?). But that’s not the reason its called a hot wire MAF, the wire is heated in normal operation and the air flowing past it cools it and changes its resistance and the output signal voltage. The actual device is called a “hot wire anemometer”. Gary Definition borrowed form here: http://www.tpub.com/content/doe/h1013v1/css/h1013v1_100.htm Hot-Wire Anemometer The hot-wire anemometer, principally used in gas flow measurement, consists of an electrically heated, fine platinum wire which is immersed into the flow. As the fluid velocity increases, the rate of heat flow from the heated wire to the flow stream increases. Thus, a cooling effect on the wire electrode occurs, causing its electrical resistance to change. In a constant-current anemometer, the fluid velocity is determined from a measurement of the resulting change in wire resistance. In a constant-resistance anemometer, fluid velocity is determined from the current needed to maintain a constant wire temperature and, thus, the resistance constant.

Here's a response I typed up for a similar thread... Original thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27990&page=2&pp=10&highlight=winter+driving Most of whets been said here is good. I have been driving in the snow and mountains of Washington my whole life, learned to drive in the Cle Elum/Roslyn area and have been commuting over Snoqualmie Pass daily for the last 10 years. I will give you my thoughts on winter driving in order of importance. 1. SLOW DOWN, I can not emphasize this enough, not only will you need more time to react, but the car will require more room and time to maneuver, its pure physics. And just because the lane you are in is clear don’t overdrive, you never know when you may be forced into a sudden lane change or the conditions in you lane will change. If the plow driver lifts his blade or hits the turnaround you can go from bare and dry to 10" of slop in less than a second. Drive at a pace that feel comfortable to you, if you feel tense you are still going to fast, if others are passing you its probably not because they are super snow drivers, they’re probably just stupid (unless it me :-p ). 2. SNOW TIRES, while not an absolute necessity they are the best equipment advantage you can get, better that 4WD, locking diffs and all the other gadgets combined. Not to say 4WD doesn’t help, in fact a Subaru with a good set of tires is about at good as in gets, both of mine (wagon and RX) are far superior to my 4WD Suburban. The Nokans and Blizzaks are very good, but for a moderate cost you can get a set of Cooper Weathermaster S/T2s, I’ve been running them for the last two years on 4WD Subarus and highly recommend them. I run studless, conditions around here rarely warrant studs and with all the dry/wet running you will do they will be worn flat in less than a season anyway. Like others have said, thinner is better, for the EA Subes I would go with the 165/80R13. On Snoqualmie the conditions are often clear/wet wheel tracks with heavy furrows of snow/slush between, the penetration provided by the thin tires makes lane changes much more stable. When changing lanes in these conditions, try to always do it power on, power adds stability to FWD/AWD cars. In fact, try to leave room around you to add throttle in all winter conditions, this can be tough going down hill, so doubble up on rule #1. 3. SMOOTH CONTROL INPUTS, throttle, brakes and steering should all be smooth and controlled, if you are paying attention to the road there should be no need for violent maneuvers. Get to know how the car reacts to small inputs, this is where the snow covered parking lot is of use, but be productive, learn what it takes to start a slide and recovery from it, don’t just spin donuts (well you can do a few, they are fun ). 4. DON'T BE A LEMMING, going with the flow or the pack is not a smart move. Keep room around yourself, you’re going to need space to correct your mistakes or maneuver around other's. If this means you need to slow up and let others pass, so be it, if you need to pass, pick a good place to do it and move on away from other cars. If the wheel tracks look glazed over, move to one side where you tires are running in better traction. Thick, wet and sloppy slush and snow is the WORST (well except for 4" of little round sleet BBs... that was a very long drive to work), many times there is better traction in lanes further left where the snow is dryer. Visualize the contact between the tire and the surface and think about what you are saking the car to do. And if you are not sure about how much traction is available assume the worst, if you have room around you slow down a bit and do a brake check, progressively apply the brake tell you hear/feel a wheel start to slide, but be ready, it may happen sooner than you think. I often do this at the top of a hill to get a sense of the safe down-grade speed. Oh, and did I mention turn the radio off and listen to the road, you will learn difference between "looks dark cause its wet" and "looks dark cause its ice". Listen for water spray and look for it on the tires of other cars. And note on adding weight, it can be a big help, my wagon seems to need it more than the RX, it would get a little tail happy going down hill with the brakes on. You should try for a couple of hundred pounds and place it as far back as you can, this will add pound of pound plus transfer some weight from the front, you get a better balance without adding more total weight. For me I addition to all my snow cloths (don’t forget the wool socks), tool box, spare (snow) tire, water, shovel and other road supplies, my ballast of choice is a big long heavy tow chain (about 85lb+) placed in bottom of the recessed cargo cubby. Sorry for the length, I will probably think of more but I’m out of time right now… Gary

Mass Air Flow sensor... dont feel bad, we all had to learn it at some time too.

The turbo is water cooled and has an upper and lower coolant hose, the connections at the turbo are on the drivers side of the center cartridge (remove thr heat shield to get a good look). The upper (coolant out) is easy to trace back under the manifold back to the thermostat area, the lower (coolant in) routes back under the turbo next to the block and down to the passenger side head. I'm betting its one of the two, the upper isn't to bad to change, on the other hand the lower is a bit of a bugger... the turbo has to come out. Note: the lower hose in covered with heat shielding where it passes under the turbo, parts store replacements may not have this... the OEM part would be a better choice here. Good Luck Gary P.S. just saw your car is a EA81T, my description relates to the later EA82T but I believe its the same layout, if it differs significantly I'm sure someone will correct me.

Lets hope its just the gauge, because running it without oil will kill the engine in minutes. If it truly has no pressure the HLAs (lifters) will clatter like mad, so if the engine isn't making lots of noise I'd bet its the gauge, or more likely the sending unit. You can check it with a mechanical gauge (or just install one permanently). Gary

Here's the page from the '89 FSM (had to split it so it was readable)... Gary

Hmm... the holes should be oversized, the're not??

Yep, its adjusted at the 3 bolts, moving for and aft adjusts toe, twisting adjusts camber. One setting effects the other so you need to check and adjust both at the same time. The adjustment range is pretty limited, if your looking for big changes you will probably need to modify something. Gary

Actually I was thinking about the JDM Legacy DOHC heads or the early JDM WRX heads (closed deck) on a EJ22T with custom forged pistons. But sure a 22B would be nice, maybe I dont dream big enough. I really expected more responce to this... where are all the haters? Gary BTW, another car on my "they should have built" list is a 2 seat, mid engine, RWD XT6... a true sports car, I'd love to biuld that one too.

I know this was recently debated in another thread (and don’t really want to rehash it here), but I think the glass weight offsets the extra metal. If you look at the curb weights for similarly equipped EA82 cars the sedan is always the lightest. I have been thinking about this for a long time, I think it looks very clean and trim… less dated bubble back ’80 something econo hatchback. Maybe a bit more generic or traditional, but then I’ve always liked 4 door Chevy Impalas and Volvo wagons. BTW, I still think the wagon is the best looking EA82 body style. I’ve rarely been called normal Gary

And the car I just might build. The all new SUBARU RX 2 DOOR COUPE The sporty styling of a 2 door with the light weight and stiffer tail of a sedan. Now imagine it with an intercooled, 4 cam, EJ22T 5MT drive train... thats my dream. You just gotta love Photoshop. Gary P.S. A guy just test drove my Datsun and he wants it (just needs to sell his Volvo first), if he comes through with the money I may be in the market for a solid 3-door (Qman?), an EJ swap doner and a sedan for parts.

Engines don’t like being overheated, especially aluminum ones. Often by the time the original cause has been diagnosed and repaired, the repeated overheating (or just one time) will have done other damage like blown head gaskets or cracked heads. I hope this isn’t the case here. In my experience a water pump “failure” is typically a noisy bearing and/or a leaking shaft seal. Unless the impeller has disengaged or separated from the shaft (I’ve never see it), the pump still pumps water. Before you tear into the water pump it might be worth having the cooling system checked for pressure/exhaust gasses. Is there water in the oil? Oil in the water? Maybe a compression check. Good luck Gary

If the leak is in the tank seam, take a good look at the shape of the tank, it may be "puffed up" from a freezing. Should be re-solderable (assuming is a all brass radiator), if your not familiar with this kind of work take it to any radiator shop and they should be able to fix it up pretty cheap. And lets hope the overheating didn't do any further damage (Aluminum engines dont like being overheated). Good luck Gary

Like mtsmiths said, its not a good idea for safety and the truck drivers dont like it much either. In most cars you can feel it, as you get closer you will enter a zone where you can fell the buffeting from the turbulence of the low pressure collapsing, you have to get inside this. You will find that being in this close will be VERY spooky at speed. I've done it one or twice, it is quite intense and takes nerves of steel (or stupidity) to stay there. Any minor gains in fuel mileage are surely offset by the real threat of DEATH. Gary

MorganM, are the old EZBoard threads archived anywhere? I'd like to read what they learned. Gary

WJM makes a good point, if you change the driver side cam timing you will need to reset the ignition timing, in some cases you might even need move it a tooth (but I doubt that). Shadow, thanks for the kind words. I know price is the bottom line and I know that most of us playing with old Subies don’t have unlimited budgets. Here’s the breakdown… I need a stock set of pulleys for each set, these would normally be a core charge/exchange deal so no real added cost for these (BTY, I could use some of these to get started if anybody has some lying around). The material for the hubs isn’t very expensive, about $20 a set with hardware. My best estimate for total production time is about 8 hours a set, but hopefully less once I get going, I usually get about $25 an hour for home shop work... all that comes to $220 a set. I think that’s going to be a little high for most people, I’m thinking something around $140-$150 would be good, I don’t mind de-valuing my time a little and if a make enough of them at a time it will cut down on the setup time in each part. So for now lets ballpark somewhere between $150 and $200 a set. Does that scare everybody off? This all assumes that they prove to have an advantage, I’m sure for those with aftermarket cams they will, but I’m not sure how much they might add to the stock set up. What do you guys think about making up some and taking them to WCSS7? How many do you think I could sell? Give me your thoughts Gary

Nice, me likey. I love the look of the Legacy turbo wheels too, the look way cool rolling at slow speed. Gary

I wasn’t going to post about this tell I was a little further along, but since possible demand may shape how I proceed with the project I guess I’ll spill the beans. On a suggestion from Tex I have prototyped a sprocket for the EA82 (see pics), he will receive the first set for testing (cause he gave me a bunch of parts, thanks again Tex ). I have also made contact with Myxalplyx about possibly including them in his Dyno testing. After I’m happy with the design I will hopefully have enough interest to justify a small production run. The units are adjustable +/- 10 deg with locking pin locations for +/- 0 through 5 deg at 1 cam degree increments (1/2 crank degree), one whole belt tooth is 10 deg so this yields a full range of adjustment. The steel prototype came in at 12oz (stock is 9oz), the production version will have an aluminum hub and should be at or below stock weight. One detail that still to be determined is if the mounting screws will clear the stock timing covers, they protrude from the pulley face by about 0.120” and I have not checked the clearance yet (preliminary investigation does not look promising, thanks Shadow). Anyway, let me know what you think and give me an idea what you might be willing to pay for them. Quantity will have some effect on the final price, but unless it high enough to warrant a CNC run it won’t make a tremendous difference. Gary

It might have (though it may only affect idle mix as Russ said), and I am a firm believer in tuning the system to peak performance WITHIN its intended scope. It’s a production automobile and the factory can’t afford to take the time to tweak each car so there is undoubtedly some room for improvement… but I doubt that a fix for running lean at 14 pounds of boost falls into the intended scope. I’m not sure I would describe the stock system as “optimum” but it is well engineered and before we start second guessing the thousands of hours in its design we need to be sure we full understand it. At this point our homework seems incomplete and I doubt we will ever gain access to the information needed. But truthfully what would be the point? If I’m going to spend the time to become a fuel management system programming expert I might as well learn about a modern system with full adjustability. As to your mixture issue on your last dyno run, that’s a puzzler, I suspect a instrumentation problem could be the source, but if not something strange is afoot, because a pulley change shouldn’t have caused a shift in A/F. BTW, great work on the dyno runs, it adds some much needed data to these discussions. Gary