upnorthguy

Pretty easy. I was just digging around one a few weeks ago as I got a fog light switch from a yard car. I think it was four screws to remove the bezel (two up inside and two on the lower edge). A few screws around the cluster (two up top again, two and lower corners). You can then pull it out a bit to get at the connectors (just squeeze and pull in the middle). See some pics here that give you an idea. Also at the 5:22 mark.

Beergarage has a nice write up of what Fairtax describes here. Also, great vid by Miles Fox .

I've had better luck just removing the headlight from the car and using the 3M kit with my drill - that way you can get all edges of the light without hitting anything else. With the drill, it is pretty easy to nick through whatever tape (I used blue painter's tape) you put on the paint around the light with it mounted to the car. A tail light is also easily removed, so I would go with that since you'll likely be using the heavier grit for a while to try and get those scratches out. Another option is to look for some used tail lights at a salvage yard. They should be much, much cheaper than buying anything new online. The yard near me only charges $22.86 per tail light.

I went through some coil troubleshooting a couple of months ago (it wasn't the problem, but that is another story...see page 3 of this thread for coil discussion). After much help from Fairtax4me, I was checking coil voltage with red lead on middle yellow ignition wire and black lead to battery negative when key is on.

Since this thread is from 2006, you very likely may not get a reply. You should be able to get the parts needed from a dealer near you (likely will have to order them) or a salvage yard. If you go to a yard, it is nice to figure out how things come apart and then fit together (without the fear of breaking something on your car...free practice). If you get parts from a dealer, you will have to be extra careful not to break anything. You can look up part names/numbers at opposedforces.com. If you go to the dealer, it is helpful to have the part number. Otherwise, you can find various dealers that will sell parts online (although shipping can get a bit spendy). If you have a dealer close to you and can get there it is cheaper.

Check out this thread (with pics) at legacygt (esp. pages 1, 5, 12). Another good write up at here at scoobymods. There are three bulbs on the heater controls. The A/C button has its own bulb. All can be replaced with the Radio Shack #7219 bulb. When I replaced my A/C bulb, the button hung up a little on a small nub in the plastic (the RS bulbs are not the exact same size, but close enough...except for where that nub is!). A two second bump with the dremel flattened the nub enough for the button to work normally. I learned the hard way that it is WAY easier to undo the cable for the temp control down in the passenger foot area. The connection of that cable at the back of the control unit is a huge pain. I spent more time on that than it took to replace the bulbs (including losing that damn clip into the bowels of the back of the radio). I was able to reuse all the old green colored "bulb condoms" that cover the ends.

As an interesting tidbit I learned about the ABS sensor on my 95 today...apparently the Outback and Legacy sensors are not the same. I messed up one of my front sensors removing it a few months ago. I picked a sensor up at a yard today, but it was from an Outback. I figured they were interchangeable. Not the case. The Outback sensor does not fit into my knuckle (a little too large). I confirmed by looking at Advance Auto...different part numbers for the Legacy and Outback.

Go here and download the factory service manual (FSM). There are some good youtube videos on how to do timing belt replacement.

I've been digging around in the fuse block area recently because I'm going to add some fog lights to my 95. There are a few relays up behind the fuse block (they are hard to reach because of all the various wires there). I don't think it is actually "under" the fuse block, but just above it. Put your head near your brake pedal and dig around up there and you'll see what I mean. If you do get the point where you determine that the fuel pump is bad, best bet is to get an OEM pump from a salvage yard. Cheaper and better quality than what you'll get at the parts store. I picked up a couple a few months ago for about $10 each (without the sending unit).

If it gets to this point, the temp sensor size and location can be seen here. Not sure if you have a multimeter for measuring resistance/voltage, but if you do and you can dig into the temp sensor, resistance values are discussed in this thread. A new temp sensor can be purchased at a place like Advance Auto for about $23 and they often have coupons (~30% off) you can find via a search on Google.

The crank bolt is not reverse threads.

The team here is the best around, so we'll get you going again. For the gang, a little more info, please. Is your car a Legacy Outback or a regular Legacy (Brighton, L, LS, LSi)? Or, what engine do you have in it? EJ22 or EJ25? The front of the EJ22 looks like this (single circular spot on each timing belt cover on left and right side): Or does it look like the EJ25 (two circular spots on either side of the left and right timing belt covers): This will help people troubleshoot possible problems. For the new thermostat, what brand did you get and install? Was it a Subaru OEM t-stat or was it some other parts store brand? Difference in shape size is this: Non-OEM t-stats usually don't work well. Was the coolant low at all when you checked it? Are you cooling fans working? Was the overheating happening while you were idling/standing still and/or while driving?

JohnC has this bit over at legacygt: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/abs-problem-163633.html?t=163633

Yes. Look at the 1:45 mark in and the followup vid .

Those are the same bulbs that can be used to replace bad ones in the heater controls and the A/C button. $1.99 for a two pack. Always good to have a few on hand!

My 95 LS came with what you saw at the yard: wood trim around the window switches and shift handle. I've recall someone else on here talk about scoring a wood trim piece for the dash vents, but I haven't seen it on any of the junk yard cars either. I have happily swapped my wood trim out for standard dark grey.

Nice looking 97 Outback on Craigslist in Bucks County (http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/4733636314.html) for $650. Bad HGs. Another 98 in Trenton for $500. http://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/4704556937.html

Do a search in this forum...there was a thread within the last few months on this very topic. You can leave the engine in place and remove the tranny to get at the plate, but I think the general consensus is that it is a little easier to remove the engine for the plate replacement. Working under the car is trickier and manhandling the tranny is tough as well and you probably need a transmission jack. Now that I have been through an EJ22 removal/replacement, there really are not as many connections as you might think. Tracking down the engine hoist is probably the hardest part (or rigging up a chain hoist to an overhead beam/frame).

I looked this morning and the defrost and cruise switches on my '95 light up when the interior lights are on (in addition to having the orange light when the button is depressed). Your "running" bulbs must be burnt out on those two switches.

I pulled my EJ22 because of the separator plate leak. This was my "boldest" car repair adventure to date. It wasn't that bad, but it did take me some time (although this is my third car so there was little pressure to work on it like a madman). There are a few good , blog posts (engine removal and plate replacement) and discussion here (in addition to the FSM description) about the process. I could definitely do a removal much much quicker now. I was working on my car on jack stands, in front of my house (on a cul de sac) so I am definitely a driveway type mechanic. The lack of burning oil smell is glorious and knowing my engine better is rewarding. If you are going to keep this car for a while, I recommend replacing the plate.

Very likely a leak from the oil separator plate on the back of the engine. The oil leaks down and hits the exhaust. Typically there is oily sludge covering everything down there...transmission crossmember, power steering rack, lower control arms, etc. Could also be blowing back from valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, etc. and ending up on the exhaust. Best bet is to do some cleaning (especially now that you have replaced the cam/crank seals) so you can better determine the source of the leak.

Older Subaru engines can leak oil from many places. The seals in a 91 have had many years to dry out and get brittle...and leak. The oil pressure sensor could be leaking, the crank seal could be bad, oil filler tube o-ring, etc. You really can't tell easily until you do some cleaning with paper towels and some engine cleaner so you can get to the point where you can try and figure out the source of the leak. For timing, just because the belt isn't broken doesn't mean the timing is OK. A bad timing belt tensioner can allow the belt to slip a tooth or two and that can be enough to throw the timing off. Your car does not have the OBDII code hookup, but that does not mean you can't read codes. You just need to get the codes to flash via a light on the dash so you can could how many times and determine the code that way (yours is OBDI, search for it, and read up more on what lmdew described above).

I had a wicked squeal a month or two ago...just on one side. Turns out it was the dust shield. No noise when I had the front end jacked up and turned the tires by hand, but when the front end was weighted and driven, squeal. Bend o rama to gain some more clearance and all was well.

A small piece of electrical tape.

Sometimes when I've jacked up a bolt head like that, I take my Dremel and grind the edges of the head enough to get the next smaller socket on it. Takes a little time, but works nicely. More involved than what 1 Lucky Texan described above with creating two flat surfaces on the head to grab it with some vice grips, but better holding power, too.