upnorthguy

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check fuel output. --> When I turn the key to run about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of gas gets pumped out when pump primes. I'll check for injector pulse. --> Right, I don't have a set of noid lights as VAham suggested, but a good tip in a comment on a youtube video suggested using a #194 bulb and bending the contact wires to make it fit. I did that and had injector pulses (I only checked two of the four injector plugs because I was doing it solo, but I figure the other two are likely pulsing as well). I was down at pickapartva two weeks ago for a few trim pieces and picked up a couple cam and crank sensors so I have alternates to try if needed.

Checked for spark again-confirmed. I have 12v at the injector plugs. I think I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key to run. Still nada. The car has been sitting since the 14th and I was just able to get to it today. When I tried to start it, the engine rumbled a bit like it was going to catch and may have fired once or twice, then went back to the turning over but not catching like it has been. Should I pull the fuel hose after the filter and make sure it is pumping out some gas to confirm fuel pump operation?

Finally got a chance to play around today. Cylinders were very aired out. Plugs back in and cranked. I smelled the tail pipe and I didn't smell a darn thing. Even though the fuel line from the filter to the intake manifold tube spewed gas the other day when I removed the manifold...maybe I am not getting enough fuel/fuel pressure? Or maybe there is fuel getting to the manifold but the injectors aren't working properly?

In case someone comes along this thread, I'll same them some hunting: This is one of the better DIY picture write ups of bulb replacement. It uses Radio Shack bulbs that run about $1.99 a two pack. http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/legacy-hvac-bulb-replacement-91.html

Today I checked for power at the yellow wire coming to the bellhousing connections (with key in run position)- 12v confirmed. Checked continuity on yellow wire (and the other two wires) that continue from the bellhousing connection to the connector for the ignition coil and all three wires were OK. With the key in run I have 12v at the connector feeding the ignition coil now (not sure why I wasn't getting it there before). Plugged everything back in and tried to fire it up and get the same result...cranking but not catching. I checked the spark plugs on the block and I am getting a spark now. I know I have gas coming in as there was quite a bit in the line coming from the fuel filter when I undid that hose today.

+1 . I didn't do this and I am cursing that. I did my Civic headlights about 14 months ago and they need another hit - not as bad as they were originally, but already noticeably degraded from after I used the kit. (I actually still have some left after doing two cars so I'll get a third use out of it)

I've used the same 3M kit to do my wagon and a Honda Civic. Results were excellent. I spent about one hour on each car. It was a lot easier to work on the headlights when removed from the car (and less chance of damaging the paint/trim around the headlight when still mounted). The retails for about $19. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/3m-headlight-restoration-kit-39084/10142278-P?searchTerm=headlight+restoration+kits

Per my post above, I don't know how to make the correlation between the FSM fuse 16 and what I have in my dash fuse box. Any suggestions on how I identify which one is 16? I just checked the fuse I identified from the cover as EG/IGN SRS AIR BAG and there is 12v at the fuse when I turn the key to the on position.

I have already checked the fuses under the hood (although I don't think they are involved here from what I can make out on the wiring diagram).

Terminals and connectors at bellhousing looked good- all there (that were supposed to be there anyways) and nothing bent or pulled out. The FSM I'm looking at (p. 19 here) show fuse 16 in the diagram. On page 18 the fuse box shows where 16 is located, but my fuse box does not look like that, so I can't figure out how to match that up. The configuration of my fuses matches a cover shown here I looked at the 15A that is labeled EG/IGN SRS AIR BAG as that looked to be the most likely contender, and I swapped it with another 15A, still no voltage to the yellow wire at the connector that feeds the ignition coil.

Meter is functional as I was also checking voltage of battery and other places as I played around. I did unplug the connector and had paper clip inserted into the center terminal of connector feeding the coil. I will check those bellhousing connectors. I did a visual check of the fuses, but I will check again. I think the wiring diagram points me to fuse 16 (but I'm a rookie when it comes to reading those things!).

No voltage (when cranking) at center pin of connector that supplies the ignition coil. I was trying to look at the wiring diagram to see what the next step in the circuit. Ignitor?

The grey plastic connector has three terminals and I was a little suspect of getting my voltmeter red lead in there on the middle one (the tip is too wide to totally insert it) but I held it to the center connector as helper cranked. I touched black lead to the engine block. I will try the paper clip in the connector (which will definitely make a more certain connection) and black to battery negative.

I confirmed the correct cam got reinstalled on each side after the seal replacements.

Assuming that is right, I checked positive to center of plug going to ignition coil and ground to engine and cranked- no voltage.

This is a 95 LS wagon. 143k. No idea on the age of the coil...I'm the third owner (since Oct. 2013) and the last one was definitely not mechanically inclined. They were told/thought the car needed HGs but the problem was really just a bad water pump gasket. The car was running OK after I fixed that and installed a new battery when I got it although the mileage has been pretty bad (about 15 mpg). Yes, I just pulled to address the separator plate leak (which had built up over time in the typical fashion...the lower crossmember and everything near it had a hefty layer of oil sludge). New timing parts. New spark plugs, new fuel filter. I will double check the cams, but I made it a point to have the correct one on the driver side for the sensor. When you say the "center wire in the coil plug" do you mean when I unplug the connection the ignition coil that I check the incoming feed connection for 12v?

Today I removed the intake manifold and reinstalled it, making sure that each connection was a solid click. Tried starting again and same result- turning over but not catching. Tonight I tried to check for spark. I took each wire/boot with a plug inserted and set the plug on the block and cranked it and checked for spark. I did not see anything. I also checked with the old spark plugs that I just removed (that were working) and also saw no spark. First, I've never done a spark test...but I think that should work, right? Otherwise...any suggestions?

Beergarage has a nice picture/text description of the oil separator plate replacement (Don't follow the Beergarage advice about replacing the rear main seal unless there is a major issue there-factory is usually good for the life of the car and correct replacement is difficult.) Use some Ultra Grey RTV to seal the plate.

How do I tell about the fuel pump? The new fuel filter did have gas in it (of course it was empty when I installed it). I'll double check that fuel hose but I labeled the three hoses with tape that are bundled there upper, middle and lower so I'm 99% sure I have them right. Just for giggles I checked all the fuses/fusable links yesterday and all looked good.

I went through and labeled nearly every line/clip with a marker or tape. I'm thinking I might just undo the intake body and start fresh. I measured the gap on the old plugs that I pulled out (that were working, but worn). The gap was over .050.

No codes when I hooked up the reader. I do have a pretty cheap one, and I've only had codes come up when the check engine light is on and I am able to start up the vehicle-I've never had a situation where I tried to pull a code with the vehicle not started. I pulled the new plugs and checked the gap. I must have left them as they came-they were all .043-44 ish. ECT plug is connected. I redid the timing belt just to be sure it was lined up. Frustrating...I didn't think this would be hard part!

ECT sensor is the red/brown sensor on the coolant crossover, right? I did plug that it, but I will double check that connection. I read some threads here that the gap is better around .045. I'll pull the plugs and check gap and reduce a few mils. Maybe I will try the old plugs (since they worked before removal). I checked the gap at removal and they were around the .039-.043" range. At least as close as I could tell with the round feeler gauge like this: I can't tell if there are any codes generated (as the check engine stays on because of no start) but I will connect and see.

Last night I fiddled with this for a bit. I unclipped and reconnected the bellhousing connections making sure I got an audible click. The hose clamp on the intake body side of my intake tube wasn't totally tight so I cranked that down. I checked all the hoses and they are all connected. Turned the key and it sounded different for one crank or two and then back to the sound in the video. Other suggestions/next steps? Seems like I should confirm that I have spark and gas. What is the best way to make sure I'm getting spark (even though I was getting it fine before I removed everything)

I followed the general consensus and left my rear main seal alone as it looked OK. People here usually say only replace it if you can see major leaking from that seal. As lmdew and monstaru noted, it is usually the oil separator/breather plate to the right spewing all that oil around. I can't tell if your plate is plastic or not. If it is plastic, you should replace it with a new metal one (and new screws). Photo of new plate here from beergarage. When I pulled my engine a couple of weeks ago to get at this plate, my wrist pin cover also looked clear of leaks, but I went ahead and replaced o-ring. Who knows when (if ever) I'll have the engine out again! I needed an impact screwdriver to get those screws out.

I've had good luck with rebuilt calipers as well. The one complaint I have is that they tend to quickly develop surface rust so if you have alloys and/or can see the calipers, I would clean then paint them before installing. I went to install a repair kit on my '95 calipers and after I popped the pistons out they were pretty scored (and so was the receiving bore on the caliper) to the point that I wasn't sure it was worth just replacing the seals. I returned the rebuild kit and bought calipers.