noob2soob22

will post pics as soon as I have a chance. paid 4500 out the door for it. Has a leaking power steering pump, leaking oil either at the pump or main seal. all covered under the 1 year warranty. Salesman just took in on trade the day before and called me. He told me to drive it for a couple months then call in the warranty. I guess it was cheeper for him to pay for the warranty than it would've been to have a mechanic fix the issues. New timing belt, water pump and belt pullys so I'm good there. I don't expect the engine to last our entire journey through life lol. ideally I would love to make it a 6 speed/ STI

Picked up a 2005 baja with over 300k miles on it. What are my options for an engine swap. Someone please tell me I can drop and STI 6 speed trans, engine, and ECU/wiring harness. This is not the turbo model either.

Rump roast* hahaha. That's the best auto correct I've seen yet. rump roast*

It does have the dual copper gaskets. Problem is they are jacked. Running up to nappa yo match up new ones. Pump is still good, just have to replace the gasket. I even tried copper spray on gasket and still couldn't quite seal. They guys at the body shop must get payed in banannas. Jeez.

So last night I found that the green diagnostic connections were left connected by the shop. After disconnecting all went back to normal. The only problem now is that they over tightened the banjo bolt on the power steering pump, causing a serious high pressure leak, aye yae yae. They tried to cover their rump roast with silicone but didn't work. They worked on front passenger body and suspension, the engine was fine when it got picked up as I was going to do a Franken motor swap into a 99. I can't complain to much, they fixed everything for free after they seen our daughter on the news after the hit and run.

Hi everyone, So we got our forester back today, two months after the hit and run. We picked it up after hours and they have performed all the work for free, it looks great but....... The check engine light flashes at 2 flashes per second. I heard this is really bad news. hdoes anyone have any suggestions? Also the exhaust sounds really boggy, performs well, no audible knocks, just sounds like wasted fuel maybe? All i do know is that the check engine light was on constantly because of a bad 02 sensor but all of a sudden we get it back and its flashing. Also the radio didn't work at first, i had to pull fuses under the hood to get it back on. I want to clear the blinking light and see if it returns, I know how to use the under the dash method to check abs, but how do i clear the engine codes manually? Thanks everyone!

Great advice wavekayaker. I checked my policy. word for word....all 12 pages.... I found nothing about it, I have a co worker who sells insurance and he said that most ins companies will try to stay away from phantom driver clauses. Thanks though.

Not top dead center, but with the tick marks that line up, I saved the post to a note pad for reference. Thanks again I really appreciate the input

These are both sohc correct? Plan of action:find top dead center on good motor swap crank sprocket then swap cam sprockets. I assume that the '99's sprockets tdc marks will align? thanks! Awesome advice Su Bah Roo'n

I've called all the body shops in 40 mile radius, good thinking! they've all agreed to help out. no luck yet but with the news coverage,

which sensors are we talking about? the whole engines mix of sensors or just the intake manifold and throttle body sensors?

so before I go spend the 600 i was miraculously able to borrow, are we 90% or 100% that intake manifold swap is all that will be needed to swap engines? Id really be up sh*t creek if I buy, pull motor switch intake manifolds and drop in, then find out it doesn't run

I must appoligize for my lack of gratitude. Things certainly could have ended worse, much worse, I'd rather shop for a new soob than a tiny casket. good call on the air intake, wasn't even considering the difference between map and maf sensors. I appreciate the input.

hi all, I wish i was posting under better circumstances. My family and I were involved in a hit and run on sunday, totaling my foresters frame. I found a 99 forester for cheap (needs engine work). will my 2001 ej25 drop and hook up? If not what years will? Any help is appreciated as I'm off from work and have one week to come up with a running vehicle Our story was picked up by the news if anyone is interested. http://wwmt.com/shared/news/features/top-stories/stories/wwmt_father-shaken-after-crash-hit-run-driver-16195.shtml ANYONE WHO WATCHES THE NEWS STORY, PLEASE LIKE AND SHARE IN ATTEMPT TO GO VIRAL TO CATCH THIS COWARD.

Well.......It's like 47 degrees outside, but at least I've got my dog...............................

STOP DONT INSPECT REAR WHEEL WELL! apologies but I should have considered that this is a 92 legacy. I'm refering to old gen wagons. wrong forum appologies. Pick up a cheap OBDII scanner from Harbor Frieght, and carry it in your car preferably near you. Next time you get the check engine light, pull over and turn the key back to acc and then to on ( not running). scan the computer and write down the code(s) that are presented. look them up online when you get home.

fuel gauge and temp gauge..........not so much Not sure if anyone has actually successfully replaced the needles for the temp and fuel gauges. But from all the thread searching I've no one else to be successful, so I wanted it to be known that yes it is possible to replace the speedo and tach needle with a little bit of help from my gps which helped with the speedo replacement, the tach I adjusted with my shifting pattern, Full throttle my ej25 shifts around 5 grand. so that's where i set it. I then verify by checking the shift pattern at normal driving conditions, usually shifts around 3 grand. I then further varified by seeing that I idled just above the second tick mark on the tachometer. This is fine and dandy, but uh.... the fuel guage and temp gauge are another story. Niether one operates at all!! they dont move a bit. I positioned my temp needle at normal operating temp, when the vehicle was in fact at operating temp, checked in the morning and needle hadn't budged. Oh crap flags went off. I din't have much fuel in the tank so I waited till my low fuel indicator light illuminated and I positioned my needle between eighth and empty. Put ten dollars in and didn't budge a hair!! So now I'm stuck trying to figure out if I'm missing some recalibration step or placing the needle wrong. I now realize that it isnt necessary to remove the needles to get to the green film, I've found that by gently, and I mean gently prying the prongs up that hold each of the guages mechanism in place, the guages can easily be removed. I can live with the fuel as long as the fuel indicator light is working, but temp guage concerns me. I've never had it overheat or exceed operating temp......but knowing my luck lately..... So if anyone know of a proper way to reset those two needles...PLEASE HELP!! or i may be in the dog house for a few days if my gf finds out that they don't work now.

thanks, I figured it would be, just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to run into some common headache that could be avoided along the way.

Hey all, Getting ready to swap oil pans tommarrow just wondering if anyone has any advice on the approach, and also what's the tightening sequence and torque spec's for these? I searched and searched to no avail, or I woudn't post useless rubbish, Chris W.

Have you taken a gander at the rear passenger side upper wheel well. On my 83 there's a block where the taillights and a few others harness together, I had problems with this as many others have. The wheel well rusts out and leaves all the wiring exposed to moisture, rain, mud. EVERY single connection on this block was corroded and I had to replace all the connections. I had issues with my tailights, which is what led me to the rear quarter panel wiring.

So I have a line on a five speed manual trans and a ej25 turbo, pulled from a rear ended WRX. Considering buying this 2000 outback with bad trans and swapping the motors and trans. Is this a plug and play operation? Or am I in deeper than i thought. Would I better off to find a turbo model with a bad trans and then swap? ANY input is greatly appreciated. The guy said it has a bad transfer case.................... uhhh you mean transmission is shot.

thanks.............

Hello to all, So my 83 GL has a cracked oil pump about 2 weeks now, I noticed that my oil is extremely milky, could the cracked oil pump cause this? I would like to think so, as the head gasket is harder to replace. C.W.

all the weather stripping around the roof racks and center pieces are in tact and no noticeable rust anywhere on the roof. I did however, find it interesting that the water runs down towards the windshield but I'm curious as to where it goes from there. I'm going to try the hose tomarrow, and I will post some pics as well. Chris W. ****CELEBRATING MY 100TH POST*********

Diffinetly not engine coolant, water for sure.