NorthWet

The explanation was excellent. Sometimes we are impatient and look only at terms and not explanation. Good luck, and please post pictures when you have your plates and window.

There is some boy somewhere, missing their laptop. I can just envision him standing outside his ranchhouse... little Timmy cups his hands around his mouth and calls out, "Lappie! Lappie, come home!!! Bump

I am reasonably sure that "4EAT" is just our shorthand slang for the 4-speed electronic AT, not an official model designation. I know that the 3AT has a different official designation, and that it uses a JATCO core with a designation similar to 2N32; this same core is used in other JATCO ATs. I have little doubt that the Subaru "4EAT" uses the same core as JATCO uses on other Makes' "4EAT"s.

How about a Honda engine? I have a line on a late '70s CIVIC engine with Hondamatic. How hard would this be to put in? What would I need to change? Because the Honda engine is about the same age, this would still make it Historic, right?

I do not have any useful information about the part numbers. Sorry. In the USA, these are usually referred to as "nameplates", "badges", or "emblems". This terminology might help you with your search. (Your English is vastly better than my German. ) Good luck.

ANSWER: Separate woodruff key. (Not part of the crank machining.) This is on an '88, but I can't imagine that they made that basic of a change on other years. I would have responded yesterday, but I didn't have enough time to verify on my spare engine that the key came loose.

My thoughts exactly.

Old thread... Starkiller resolved this some time ago.

What do you have in mind? Pm'd you, as my time near a phone will be spotty and antisocial until Monday.

Gee, I am SOOO embarassed.

Let's see: 2 EA81s 2 EA82 SPFIs (one known good, one known blown HG) 2 EA82Ts (one rebuildable, and one, in the pic, with a ventilated case ) 2 EJ22s (both blown HGs and missing a few belt-area parts) Plus I have an EA71s engine-side bellhousing. EA82s are too wide to fit between frame rails, and Mrs. Northwet isn't "in" to lifts.

Co-efficients? Looks to me like standard spring rate for non-progressive coil spring. Should just need to look at the "lbs/in" figure and compare to the lbs/in rating of other springs. Am I missing something? (again )

Congrats. I want my car to be as minimaly polluting as practical, but I have had nothing but headaches and low respect for the emissions testing beaurocracy. Umm.. I was unaware that Weber 2-stage 2-bbls (as opposed to DCOE-series) used idle jets. Do you mean Primary Air bleed/jet? Not wanting to be picky; I suspect that others will follow your lead to better running and lower pollution, and I want to make sure that the right term is used.

Yesterday a 79 Brat followed me home... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=7693 Well, actually, it had to be pushed kicking and screaming, 'cuz it had sat for 2 years with its parking brake on. The engine kind of starts, but pukes chocolate milkshake out of the passengerside PCV breather hose. Some cancer on both front fenders, and surface rust elsewhere. Suspension was "exciting" coming down the hill from its previous repose to my place... really unbalanced diagonally. Still got to work out the title (abandoned by property owner's friend over 2 years ago). But only cost $50 so far... So, recommendations? "Restore" with its EA71 engine? Put in an EA81 with the EA71's bell housing? EA81 with D/R 4 or 5 speed? Or maybe an EJ22? My wife is interested in this one, so it may end up with an... *gasp!* ... automatic. If I go through that much work, might just go EJ22 and 4EAT.

BRAT No No No, but the EA81 manifold MIGHT fit. Yes, but rare. I have rarely heard of anybody here even doing a valve job, let alone a blueprint.

The problem with using ANY acid-based (ha ha ha! Chemistry oxymoron!!!) remover/cleaner is that you are just setting the stage for more severe damage. Electricals/electronics should NOT be exposed to acids. Electrical contact cleaner and/or mechanical removal is the best (and only) way to clean electicals.

It's not "bad air", it is merely heated air to help the engine run properly in cold conditions.

It's not so much the engine itself, but all of the ancilliary stuff like intake manifold, exhaust ASV adapters, EGR (or not). If you strip an engine bare and then put the car's original manifolds, etc, on it, then there isn't much of a problem. Most people don't bother do this and jsut slap an engine in.

If I am thinking about the same guy that Edrach was talking about, he just tests, tweaks, and changes until the engine and emissions equipment is functioning as it should. No snake-oil, no trickery; just knowing what causes what problems and how to deal with them. Basics for passing emissions is fresh ignition parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor), proper ignition timing, clean air filter, clean carburetor passages, no air leaks, functioning O2 sensor, and functioing catalytic converters. You did not say if your problem was at idle, higher RPM, or both.

Well, a little story... WAY BACK WHEN, when front disk brakes were relatively rare (early '70s), the rationale for not having front disk brakes was that brake pads were difficult to replace. Well, that bias dissolved with the onslaught of Japanese imports with superior brakes. Then, the argument against rear disk brakes was that you couldn't put a parking brake on disk brakes (Corvette used a separate drum for the parking brake, IIRC). Multiple imports proved that to be BS. Every true advance that I have seen over the years was argued against as not workable, too complicated, or too hard to work on. What it all boiled down to was CHANGE, and peoples' natural resistance to change and fear of the unknown/unfamiliar. If you have ever had to redo a dual leading shoe drum brake with automatic adjusters, you will not believe how dirt-simple disk brakes are. Changing pads on a properly designed disk is simplicity incarnate. (My Aerostar, however, seems to have been designed by people that slept through Elegant Design 101.) Rotors on front-drive cars can seem more difficult to do, as many require removing the axle nut, and visions of dealing with huge fasteners and bearings and grease and preload and stuff frightens people off, even though most of the above does not really apply. Other than the rust and dirt that grossgary pointed out (common to older vehicles regardless of make) there is nothing difficult in doing front brakes on a Sube.

Sorry... Nope, nothing special needs to be done. It is pretty much as it appears.

Well, they could pronounce it like the original Versailles in France... you know, the one Marie Antoinette (please don't mispronounce her name, too! lol) hung around while she still had her head? But, it doesn't stop there: Madrid, Cairo, at least one other that I forget... But then, we do our own bad pronounciations, such as Medina. And I won't even get started on our Anglicized Native American names here! Nope, pretty easy. You (or Jim) might want to consider getting a set of tensioners online for "the next time". $50-something bucks to prevent a t-belt job is cheap insurance. BTW, Jim probably didn't mention me out of humility, as he and his family did much to make my cross-country trip (and back!) bearable. They made me at home going both directions. Great folks; reminded me of what Middle-America is supposed to be like.

Well, I am Pat. The others may not get it though... Do you still have that thing? Well, if you (or was it Andrew???) are doing a deal with Scoobywagon, then maybe I can swing by and pick up the engine(s) and my pillow at the same time... And, frankly, scrub is easier to dig up then rooty forest land... and you gots lots of scub around you, right?

It is probably about right. But, you can get them for half the cost from other online sources, such as "The Parts Bin" http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1988&make=SU&model=LOY-4WDT-001&category=All&part=Timing+Belt+Tensioner Its possible that other local sources may carry it, too. Maybe Autozone? Regarding Versailles (which you folks really should learn how to pronounce correctly ), I guess Jim hasn't told you about the time I spent in his neck of the woods. A Grand Adventure...

No. And no.