NorthWet

If they were the ones that were in the front, the roofers were going to throw them into a dumpster. I was supposed to come up and grab everything but haven't done it yet; Austin's Mom was suppposed to have saved the doors and bumpers from an ignominious fate.

I would agree that one probably broke the other, but there is also the possibility of a foreign object. (And I don't mean a belt that say "Fabrique En Canada"!) Check things out, and you can probably reconstruct the sequence of events. Just make sure that you check all of the rotating parts for free movement.

The "normal" place for any temp guage to read should be midscale. What you want is that whatever is normal for your sender/gauge that it stays there and doesn't go higher under load. Yes, you have found the one and only drain for the radiator. Makes a lot of sense, doesn't it?

That number is probably just a serial number. Assuming that this is an horizontally opposed engine, there should be a code cast into the top surface of the block on the right hand (as viewed from the driver's seat of a front engined car) towards the front edge (where the pulleys are). It should be something such as : EA81 EA82 EJ22 ER27 More info about what the engine looks like would certainly help. (Such as 3, 4, or 6 cylinder; OHV, SOHC, DOHC; type of intake, carb, SPFI, MPFI, turbo.)

BTW, the tranny "core" was probably the same as the 3AT. JATCO makes pretty much all of them, and I think both Nissan and Toyota used the same core as Subaru.

Well, after spending the last 26 years in computers, and owning a computer prior to the IBM PC, I am fairly well versed in things computer. BTW, did I mention that I programmed for several decades in Mainframe Assembler, and have coded in various microprocessor assembly languages? Oh, and I broke through XP Pro's security in order to rescue data files. (I learned a LOT about breaking XP from that task. Very easy...) I have a pretty good idea how to snoop for information, and I did so. At the risk of giving away information to ID the laptop, it has almost nothing on it, not even a setup web-browser/email. Word is not installed; a couple of text files identify the user as a tween/teen, probably male. The OS is "licensed" to an indeterminant name.

Why don't you just look at mine when you come to pick up the engine? Take all of the pics you want!!! (No poaching my ideas, eh?!)

OK, the premise is steady-cruise at highway speed, correct? That requires a certain HP to maintain (torque is irrelevant). HP varies as a function of torque times RPM, so at a higher RPM you need to produce less torque, which means that you are running at a lower effective VE. This also produces a lower effective compression ratio, which would cause a lower thermal efficiency. At a lower RPM, you need to produce more torque in order to generate the required HP, so you are running at a higher effective VE, higher effective compression ratio, and higher thermal efficiency. (This is assuming a few things regarding not being way off of the torque curve and/or into rich mixtures regions.) Does this sound reasonable, or am I suffering from sleep deprivation?

My understanding is that, at least for the USA market, the Loyale (L-series) only got the 4EAT in turbo models. (I don't think that we got any turbo Loyales in 93.)

Aha! Somebody had caught on! The EGRs purpose is to cut NOx emissions. I doubt that the EA82's ECU does anything to compensate, as it is really not that complex of a device. The part (EGR solenoid) is easy enough to replace, but unreasonably priced as a new part.

Mine act like fairly typical small-car ATs. One was pretty much DOA when I bought the car, barely limped it home; changed horribly burnt (and low) fluid, cleaned up the governor valve, replaced vacuum-modulator, and it runs like a champ. Another had 6 forward gears; changed rank-smelling fluid, vacuum modulator, cleaned valve body, and worked the jammed part (band, I think) loose. Also works fine. There is no filter on these trannies, so clean fluid is real important. Lots of problems seem to be caused by dirty fluid. Remember that just draining the fluid pan only removes about half of the fluid.

Yes, Jim, the distributor side T-belt drives the cam which drives the distributor. If the distributor doesn't turn then your plugs will not get a spark. By the way, you can test the coil by making sure it has power to the +-side and touching the "-"-side to ground. Coil wire should produce a healthy spark. But if that rotor isn't turning, the t-belt is the likely problem. I had a t-belt shred with less than 3k on it.

The code isn't for the EGR valve proper, but for the vacuum solenoid that activates it. The ECU senses whether or not the solenoid coil has the proper resistance, or if it is open or shorted. Although I have not looked at it, I would assume that the solenoid coil has failed in such a way as to not open the EGR. If this is the case, then you areunlikely to notice any bad effects, and the engine may actiually run smoother.

INCOMING!!! Any increase in RPM requires more energy just to achieve it. If this were not the case, then the engine would be prone to overreving to destruction at "idle" throttle-opening (and would, in fact, not require any opening at all to idle). The amount of energy is actually quite considerable. This is the rationale behind "overdrive" gears. Running an engine at low RPMS does not hurt it, assuming that the oil pressure is adequate. Damage from "lugging" can be the case with rolling-element bearings, but even then these bearings are supposed to be designed for the engine's maximum torque/BMEP and are well up to the task of handling "lugging" at half of the BMEP.

Bump

Bump!!!... ...for the lonely losers who are at home on Friday night!!! (I technically am not, as I have to go to work instead of stay at home and watch cr*ppy TV or surf the net. :-\ )

The Dealer's comments about the seals sounds a little... ummmm... off. OK, changing any seal can keep it from leaking there so it might potentially leak more from somewhere else, but realistically, the "compression" is just internal case pressure which should be dealt with by a properly functioning PCV system. (Please note my "properly functioning", and think about making sure yours is in good working order.) Basically, I think the Dealer's comments are close to BS, certainly self-serving, and probably CYAF. Regarding your tranny, what do you condsider "rough shifting"? Hard/firm gear-to-gear shifts? Not wanting to shift at right RPMS? Not wanting to shift into 3rd when in Drive?

Cited measured temps by other Board members for EA82T turbo outlet temps were in the 220-240degF range. I use not-quite boiling water to soften PVC in order to mold it into place; PVC can't take the heat. I once used it for an intake "log plenum" and airhorn stubs on a set of 40DCOEs, and it fell apart in a couple of months (it doesn't like gasoline, either). The black "ABS" pipe will hold up better to the temp and any stray gasoline or oil.

This may or may not help you. It is the emissions diagram from the FSM, not the underhood hose routing drawing. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5234 There was another thread (should have been in early April, about the time I scanned and posted this image) that asked for the same info. You might find it and see if the guy got the hose drawing. *Edit - I found the thread of which I was thinking, and it really doesn't have much else. But, here it is anyways: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34168 - end edit *

Oddcomp was the second person I thought of, as we did spend some time at WCSS7. The first person I thought of was the guy to whom I was loaning my t-wagon. Both said it wasn't theirs, but offered to make a home for it...

Well, although there is no obvious indications of WHO owned it, it does have indications of WHAT used it: A tween/teen, almost certainly male. So, Brian, you have to ask yourself: Are you a boy???

A bizarre combination of my son's driving school, my work, and Diet Mt. Dew.

Yesterday I found a laptop computer (not mine) in my car. The only likely place that it would have stowed away would have been at WCCS7. Main post is in the Meet&Greet forum, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41562 but since I mostly travel in the circle of OldGen folks I figured that if it was mistakenly left it would be by one of you (us?). Sorry for crossposting.

Yesterday I discovered a laptop computer (not mine) in my car, and the most likely place that it would have stowed away is WCCS7. If you are missing a laptop, identify it and I will get it to you. (There is nothing obvious on the HDD to indicate owner.)

Sheesh!!! That list will certainly make my wife feel better about HER car! Congrats!