NorthWet

I like the attitude of cutting ones teeth first. Being able to buy power is not a substitute for discipline and experience. To that end, I would suggest that you try your stock (if well prepped for the stock category) Brat for a while. It is hard to overestimate how valuable being competitive can be to your learning experience: You need some success. And underpowered is relative: I can get my sedan into a 4-wheel powerslide pretty easily, and it has an automatic transmission. Strut bar shouldn't be too hard to fabricate. And an EJ22's power would be awesome, but its weight will have to be dealt with.

BTW, I don't recall reading anything about how you are handling detonation issues with your turbo. Do you have anything that modifies spark timing (doubt it with an SPFI ECU), reduces boost pressure, or enriches or injects a suppressant?

Oh, and lacking an FSM or decent manual for the 4EAT, my educated ( ) guess is that your #3 contains the planetary gear set, band and maybe a clutch pack (doubt it), and the #4 would be the clutch packs. I forget which end the ATF pump in the 3AT is... it may be in your #3.

That would be section #5, by your designation. (In earlier transmissions/FSMs, Subaru refers to the sections by letter ID; and they don't count the TC.) All_talk recently posted a pic of the talishaft hosing separated fromt the rest, with the "transfer" clutch-pack visible.

If all you are looking to do is to pull the engine without the A/C lines being an issue, just unbolt the A/C compressor mount-bracket from the engine and swing the compressor/lines/bracket over to the strut tower or battery-tray area. When the engine goes back in, just swing the A/C works back into place.

It seems to me that these mods would put your Brat out of its league, as into the "anything goes" RallyCross category. Would it be competitive against a fully prepped WRX?

Timeserts are supposed to be solid (I personally haven't seen one...yet ), and several on the Board swear by them. They are available in the 11mmx1.25 thread that the EA82 headbolts use (and, I presume, the EA71 studs); at least one Member (calebz?) has a kit.

Ignition timing does not add or subtract power. Proper timing optimizes power, while improper timing detracts from it. What you want is the PROPER amount of ignition advance for the engines current situation, and the manufacturer produces a "map" of what timing works OK for certain conditions of engine speed and load. This map is conservative, attempting to avoid detonation. A long winded way of saying that if you change the "base timing" (the tune-up timing spec), then it just shifts the map and you won't know what it will do unless you try it. To plant a seed of controversy: An "ideal" engine would require 0deg of ignition advance.

Change the "a bit" to "a lot" and you will have it just about right.

Well, the HLAs themselves can/will drain if you lay them on their sides. And they are just a slip fit into their bores, so there is nothing to prevent oil from leaking out and air to leak in.

AFAIK, the cracks between the valves are relatively unimportant. It seems that if you just pull EA82 heads at random the vast majority of them will have this crack. The turbo heads seem to be the only ones that seem to suffer from cracks that are problematic, and these cracks are in the exhaust port runner divider. The headgaskets die from old age, abuse, overheat, poor maintenance, or a mixture of the previous. If you change the headgaskets, examine the head and block surfaces for damage/erosion around the "fire ring" sealing area, and surface the component as needed.

As I typed, 90% my fault. Working 2 jobs makes it hard for me to keep track of things. If you still have it, sure. I need to pick up a part from carfreak85 soon, so maybe I can combine trips.

Picky, picky picky: No state allows you to do this. The Federal Government forbids it (EPA regulations). Perhaps what edrach meant was that each state is different in what you might get away with. :-p

The gasket should not be overly compressed, so you should be able to back off of the torque. I still can't see any reason why they dod that. My best guess os that they just messed up on the diagram. The lower torque spec is what you would expect to see on a sheet metal gasket joint (oil pan, ATF pan), and is meant to keep the sheet metal from deforming. If the bolt diameter can take the 25 ft-lbs (yes, they can), and I did not see any other reason for limiting torque (I don't), then I would torque all of the same diameter bolts to the same 21-25 value.

There is no reason that the (marginally) higher CR would effect Air/Fuel ratio. It will not run any leaner/richer. It may be more prone to detonation, but the difference would be lost in the "noise" of all of the other variables that effect combustion. As archemitis said, retarding the timing by a degree or two would probably mitigate the detonation risk.

AFAIK, the ignition map is stored in the ECU, also AFAIK noone has "hacked" the ECU to develop different ROMs that would change the ignition and/or fuel maps.

From what I have heard, most other dashes squeal while engine is running, and then just go out. Sounds like yours is more of a battery power (+-side) issue, or possibly a ground, to the dash itself. As in, the dash is not getting sufficient voltage and current while the alterator is not helping to prop it up.

Ah, SkankinPickle! Speak of the Angel! We seemed to have posted almost simultaneously. I will have to check out your scans. Thanks!

The EA82 digidashs have an annunciator that warns of bad power input, and I would imagine that the EA81 has the same. I am awaiting schematic/test info that is supposed to be in the FSM, but haven't connected properly with the local Member that has offered the info (90% my fault ). I have several EA81 DigiDashs, compliments of Turbone, and have plans to fix them if I can get a little info and/or a car that I can test them in. I have seen nothing that indicates that the wrong solder or "bad" solder was used on these. What they do have is much the same problems as the dash clocks: 20+ years and some overly warm resistors melting solder joints. The dash "power supply" is pretty much just a 7805 voltage regulator IC, which I expect just gives up the ghost after 20+ years of getting hit by frequent voltage spikes.

From a Chilton's (blech!) for a 2.2L, it shows a factory-ish diagram that lists 21-25 fl-lbs for the short bolts and 5-ish for the long ones... go figure. BTW, the written description is the same.

One thought (championed by someone else) was to disassemble/reverse-engineer the code. I had a thought to try a plug and play controller using the ECU box and connectors.

The "bad diode" is probably one of the 6 in the alternator itself.

And you removed the distributor why? I have had an ongoing HG replacement project, slowed by available time and workable-weather conflicting. That, and I have spent several days hand-"milling" one of the heads that had significant erosion around the HG "fire ring". Almost ready to put back together... but time to go to work. Congrats!

The point is that oddcomp doesn't even have a Subaru ECU... he doesn't need one anymore. So I figured that he has a couple unneeded ones lying around. I don't need one either, but was interested in one to play with (other than the 3 or 4 in my parts cars, which would take some miniscule effort on my part to remove.

Hot coolant coming out of the weep hole will clear away any oil, and leave a residue along the sides of the main trail. General wetness would tend to indicate another source. The inlet pipe is faily easy to remove, as long as you can get at the bracing bolt(s?). The o-ring is kind of odd/uncommon, so you may want to locate a replacement or commit to RTVing before you remove it. It is also possible that the under-the-manifold hose might be leaking, and the leak just traveling along the top of the block to the wter pump area.