NorthWet

I have used 10% ethanol blend for probably 20 years, and although I might prefer not to use it I have not had any obvious issues other than slightly lower fuel mileage.

Thanks, GD. My 30 yr/old Craftsman hobby compressor also has a solid line, and the constant vibration necked-down (by "wobble compression") the pipe at the lower fitting. I will certainly look for flex line. This same compressor has also been tripping breakers for years, and recently just wouldn't start at all. I tracked it down to corroded contacts on the centrifugal "start/run switch" (I can't remember the proper name for it). Took the end off of the motor, dressed the contacts, reassembled. just like magic.

I hadn't ever tried a parts number search before at RockAuto. Just serendipity, I guess.

That looks like the right number. All of the EA82 pumps are the same. I did a quick check on Rockauto, and although i can't find the oil pump listed under the Subaru listings, if you do a part number search it returns that it is available and costs $88.79. It is an odd listing, as it does not refer back to any vehicle listing.

The simple ground strap will only work if you have metal tanks on your radiator that the switch screwed into. If plastic tanks then you would need to ground the switch body to the chassis. (The use of plastic radiator tanks on the EA82 was a major reason to go to a separate ground for the switch itself.)

The cylinders/rings are very durable, as are the crank bearings. 223k miles is not a large number for these engines. Your engine will likely still have the original honing (machining) marks in the cylinders. Once the covers are off of the cam case, room opens up to remove the cam case from the head, and then there is plenty of room to get at the head bolts. No concern about getting in a torque wrench. The rockers float between the hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) and the valve stem, kept in place by the cam in the cam case. Until you reattach the cam case, the grease is useful in holding the otherwise unsupported rockers to the HLAs and valve stems. (If done on an engine stand, it is simpler to turn that cylinder bank to the vertical for reassembly.) Be careful removing the intake manifold bolts, as they tend to corrode from contact with coolant and can snap if you try to force them. Also, you might want to remember to disconnect the O2 sensor wire before dropping the exhaust manifold... something I tend to forget.

The (initial) big pain of doing the head gaskets with the engine in-car is getting off the cam covers... one side is REALLY tight against the frame rail. My other major issu would be leaning over the car for a couple of hours, and making sure that i had some thick grease/Vasoline to stick the rockers in place during reassembly. BTW, what makes you think that the headgaskets are blown?

Answered in your other, specific governor thread. Gear is fixed and the entire governor assembly spins with the gear. If you have disassembled the valve, all of the internal sliding parts should slide effortlessly without ANY catching or binding. They should slide "like a knife through butter". Kind of unusual to find metallic flakes up there.

Yes, the gear is fixed to the governor assembly, and the entire assembly rotates. As the entire assemble spins, the valve's pistons push outwards against spring pressure, and the moving pistons close and uncover hydraulic passages within the valve.

Thread resurrected from near-death... A recent perpetual motion thread got me to notice this thread, and I thought that I would throw in my 2 cents. I had seen mention of turbo-compound engines (what we are really talking about here) some years ago, and thought that it was a neat idea, if somewhat difficult to implement. It is commonly used on industrial diesels, including some by Detroit Diesel and Scania. This is not perpetual motion, and it is not, if done correctly, stealing energy from the engine to try to give it back to the engine. The energy comes from the residual heat energy in the exhaust stream, heat that otherwise just goes out the tailpipe. Implementation is tricky because of the reduction gearing needed to turn the high rotational speed into something the engine can accept.

If you can manually shift it from L to 2, then the governor is likely at fault as the others have said. (+1 on the governor.)

Possibly the screw, though the one instance where I lost that screw I had 10 seconds of gradually degrading power and then nothing; my rotor just freely turned on the shaft, so it preferred to stay still with the cap on. However, definitely worth a look. The 2 times I lost a non-disty-side (US passenger side) belt were both on the highway, and power decreased significantly but still made enough to do 30-35mph on level ground with wide open throttle. Once I got to the side of the highway, it would run very roughly and only if I held the throttle open. Once I tried to let it idle, it stopped and wouldn't start, though it sounded like it wanted to do so. My opinion is still the timing belt, but that rotor scew is SOOOO much easier to check... unless, of course, you drop the screw into the gravel on the side of the road...

You probably should be getting better mileage. My SPFI 3-speed automatic sedan got around 30MPG with little attention. Which sensors dod you replace? Top of my list would e O2 sensor and the Coolant Tmeperature Sensor (CTS). Either of these can screw up mileage. Also, did you check/set the ignition advance? did you use the green connectors to check/set it, and did you remember to disconect them afterward? Blinker might be a bad ground or power connection; others will chime in and give you better advice. With the heater, the "Defrost" setting will engae the A/C, giving you your squeal and loss of power. If this happens on any settings other than defrost or A/c than it is malfunctioning. This may also be some of the MPG issue. The bubbling in the dash is probably air in the cooling system; pretty common to hear it while the engine is running as it passes through the heater core, not so common when engine is off. GEneral consensus seems to be that 10w40 oil is too viscous for these engines. This is even more true with your winter weather. (I assume GJ, CO.) 10w30 would be better.

If there is no sign of overheating/melting at the joint where the fuse material broke from the cap, then it is almost certainly not an overload/overheat situation. More likely a mechanical/metallurgical joint fatigue. Old fuses, fuse contacts vibrating in the fusebox plastic.... something like that.l

My first guess would be that your non-disty-side timing belt is trashed. (Broken, stripped at the crank pulley, whatever.) The engine will run on the disty-side cylinders, but it will act pretty much as you described. It will probably sound "funny" as you crank the starter. ("Funny", as in the speed of the cranking won't be uniform, speeding up and slowing down every second or so.)

The common causes of window residue are smoking (you wouldn't be asking us, as you would probably already know), plastics out-gassing (already discussed), antifreeze (though you will have a more obvious condensation issue than residue), and oily fumes from the engine compartment.

You didn't specify your model-year, but it really shouldn't matter on this item. And, just to clarify, I believe that the brand name is "Microgard" (according to the website). Although I haven't heard of Microgard (not unusual), the other brands listed on the website are the right ones for your car, so the Microgard MGA4303 probably is also correct. What makes you believe that it does not fit correctly? After looking at mine, I imagine that you see the filter wobbling around in the lower part of the filter box. This is normal, as the top part fits snugly over the filter, sealing it and locating it within the box.

To clear things up a little, the EA81 and EA82 designations I typed refer to the engines used, and not specifically to the chassis. The EA81 are the older, pushrod (camshaft in block) engine, which will have its distributor on the front of the engine over near the thermostat housing. The EA82 is the slightly newer, Single Overhead Camshaft (on each cylinder bank), with plastic-covers over its cambelts on the front of the engine, and the distributor mounted to the back-end of the left (US driver's side) head. The engine identifier is also cast/stamped into the front-top of the block just to the engine-right of the joint between the 2 case halves. ("EA81" or EA82")

I would also go along with the concerns about the age of the fuses. Assuming that they used lead/tin solder to attach the fuse material to the caps, the amalgam of metals tends to change with time. The tin can migrate out of the mixture (often forming "whiskers" of pure tin that can grow long enough to short out electronics.... like has happened in older satellites) leaving the lead even more susceptible to oxidation.

Slightly off topic: Loyale 2.7 Turbo: I believe that Moosens was using "I hear ya" as slang (or idiom? what term would be used outside of the USA?) for "I understand and agree" or something else similarly positive. As I interpret it, Moosens was being positive regarding your comments. Back on topic: Does the fuse-material itself still look shiny, end to end, with a clean separation from the cap? Or is the separated end dull and/or looking like the material started to melt and flow? I suspect that there was a general issue with fuses/fuseboxes in 70's Japanese cars. I have seen several where the headlight fuse(es) in particular ran hot enough to melt the fusebox plastic. My 71 510 is/was bad enough that the fuse contacts became free-floating within the box; ended up putting in relays after replacing the fusebox. Before that, I replaced the headlight fuses every 6 months or so, usually replacing the gray, partially melt-flowed fuses before they blew.

Before I dive in to an electrical problem, my wife asks if I checked the fuse. Sometimes she is smarter than I am.

Walk into an Autozone/Napa/CSK-O'Reilly's/etc and ask for a part for an 85 Subaru and it is a crap-shoot as to whether they give you a part for an EA81-era car or an EA82-era car. Both car-series were available (*Edit: overlapped -endedit*) from 85 until (87? 88?), and part stores' listings don't make a good distinction. In general, their listings are unreliable. A lot of us will tell discounters that we have an 83 or 84 if we have an EA81, or an 89 or 90 if we have an EA82. EA82s from 85 and 86 might be more difficult with some parts, especially distributor stuff. Do as GD suggests, or at least take your cap to the parts store and compare.

Will it try to start with supplemental fuel? (e.g. - starting fluid or a splash of gas.) A failed/failing fuel pump is a possibility, especially considering what sounds like a clogged fuel filter.

If the seatbelts acted the same (or nearly so) with both controller boxes, then the controller is probably not the (major) cause. (Probably due to use, the driver's side belt typically has more failures than the passenger side. It would be good to check both sides.)

!) Several possible causes, but dirty fuel filter tops my list. Others include the usual tune-up items (Plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, and timing). If it runs fine most of the time and starts to fall flat on its face under load, low fuel flow due to clogged fuel filter is most likely. 2) Subaru temp gauges are notoriously inexact. Just because it reads low doesn't mean that it is. However, coupled with your "not having heat" (I assume from the heater/defroster), I would guess that someone removed the thermostat. If true, they might have done so in some misguided attempt to relieve a cooling problem... like a clogged radiator. 3) see 2)