NorthWet

Yes. Given time and money, anything can be done... ...but not everything should be done. There are ways to do it, none of them easy or straightforward. You will end up with little power increase and an engine that will soon be dead. MUCH more practical to look into swapping in a later (and MUCH greater) EJ22. Actually less work, more reliable and far more powerful.

I tried this on my 88 XT, and the top of the shock interfered with the top of the wheel well (sheetmetal). The contact point is underneath an internal stiffener joint, so drilling a clearancing hole was not practical.

A little clarification, please, before I know if a minor portion won't work: What do you consider to be the "tophats on the rear shocks"?

Where did the bolt snap? Is there any of the shank/threads protruding from its hole?

Front final drive is turning (speedometer is reading something other than zero), so transmission core should not be the issue.

Should be Orielly's Part # : KF680-02 Took me longer to specify your vehicle than to kind the proper clutch. Key might be either "4WD" or "8inch".

Retorque the axle nut, after checking that the dished washer is installed correctly. Easy, free and might cure the problem.

It would be nice to know if this is a manual or automatic transmission. I am assuming that it is an automatic from your reference to "drive". PLEASE clarify. Without knowing what is broken, and how that breakage would affect roadworthiness, I would not chance it. It would be useful to know if part or all of one front axle turns when you try to make the car move forward. If and only if it is safe to do so, and with one foot firmly on the brake pedal, have someone observe the axles through the engine bay while you try to drive forward. The likely possibilities are: - both axles stay completely still, or - the inside portion of one axle moves while the rest does not move, or - both the inside portion and the central shaft move but the outer portion does not move, or - the entire axle moves but the wheel does not.

Not necessarily. Is yours Manual or automatic? My 90 manual will not move without its rear driveshaft installed. And the automatic, since it is not truly "fulltime", will not move unless the TCU engages the rear drive. If an automatic, if you unplug the TCU it should put the tranny into a default mode, which should include locking the drive to the rear wheels.

Big. I am at work and do not have my books, but others have stated that it is 145 ft-lbs. Other, esteemed members of the forum have said you can go up to 200 ft-lbs or so. It is difficult to overtorque.

A common problem is that the clutch and brake switches develop a gap to their stops. The common fix that I have heard is to attach pennies/dimes to the stop to act as shims to eliminate the gap.

Pretty simple to do, and pretty much as you think. Remove the castle nut, pull off hub with rotor, separate rotor from hub. You might want to consider breaking loose the rotor-mount bolts (the 4 bolts you see near the studs) while the wheel is still on the ground or can be held stationary by the brake. No seals needed, though you can replace the outboard bearing seal if you want or need to do so. Sometimes the rubber pin boots and/or piston dust boot are trashed. I have found that, at times, these are difficult to find available anywhere. Remember that the caliper's pistons need t be screwed back into the calipers rather than pressed, and the piston-side brake-pad's location pin needs to slide into the gap in the center of the piston. (Piston has to be turned to a certain orientation.)

Op has had to say this far too many times. The topic is carburetors. No more talk about EFI, either pro or con.

SUs are "the Devil's Own" to tune properly. The oil in the piston damper does nothing but alter the acceleration enrichment. The good news is that SUs don't highlight poor tune with a lot of bad behavior; Driveability is still good.

Much confusion added at this point, since someone other than the OP asked about top mount starter. So, to clear things up: PA Grown, is your starter on the side like an 84 Brat should be, or on the very top-center like a much earlier Brat?

As a random thought, you should think about at least examining, and preferably replacing, the coolant hose that runs up from the head to the turbo center section. It is near impossible to get at when everything is in place. Also, replace the hose from the turbo to the thermostat housing. It sees extremely hot water/steam, and becomes embrittled very quickly.

That is kind of what I figured, but my brain couldn't quite be sure from the photo. I don't recall anyone before mentioning a failure there. Still, from what I can interpret from the photo, it looks like some previous work has been done before. If you have the skills or resources to repair, go ahead and do so. You don't really have to worry about doing a neat job, as the pipe design is rather poor to begin with.

I had the Holley 390CFM on my 1971 Datsun 510 ("Bluebird") with an L20B engine. I had previously had a pair of Weber 40DCOEs (which gave me nothing but trouble), and the 390CFM was far superior for street use. MUCH better fuel mileage, great driveability, and good power. It was also MUCH more expensive than the average Holley 4-barrel. Engine vibration ultimately destroyed an auxiliary venturi. Sigh.

That appears...ummmm... different to the 2 that I have repaired. Is that at the turbo mount flange??? On my 87+ uppipes, it seems to me that was a straight shot from pipe to flange, while yours looks like a 90-degree bend. I am soooo confused. Looks like someone has messed with that joint before.

Penetrant oil, maybe some heat, a mallet, and lots of patience.

I can easily carry an EA81 around... they are about 100-150 lbs, depending on what (flywheel/clutch, accessories) is still on it. EA82s weigh a bit more, mostly due to their extra camshaft and parts. EJ's are beefier and weigh a little too much for me to carry around.

The car is front-wheel drive, with selectable 4WD. The front wheels are always connected. Check for stripped splines in the front wheel hubs.

Set them in place, and it should be apparent. For some reason, my mind says 5 of the shorter bolts, and they should fit in the recessed areas of the head (like around the valves).

If you can weld, or know somebody who can, it is not that hard to fix the uppipe flange as it literally cracks-off at the pipe-to-flange joint, Hardest parts are being patient with the turbo bolts (it can be a real bummer if you snap one), and dealing with the spot-welded heat shield that shrouds the broken joint. Is the wacky powerband RPM related or load/airflow related? If load/airflow, a little less likely cause is a badly worn MAF: Your MAF is a flapper-type that sometimes has the contacts wear through the resistive tracks.

Common exhaust failure point is the uppipe cracks right at the turbo flange. A pre-turbo crack will usually just make the engine feel down on power throughout the rpm range. My experience is that peaks-and-valleys in power across the RPM range is usually a problem in the HT part of the ignition system (rotor, cap wires and plugs).