NorthWet

You can have the heads pressure tested (about $70/head near me), and that can tell you if the crack is currently too deep, but it might be simpler just to eyeball them. Between the valve cracks seem to vary greatly. Take a look at the heads... superficial cracks will be visible, but not much separation sideways or vertically. These can be left alone or lightly peened closed. (If you have the heads resurfaced, the machinist is likely to be cranky about the presence of cracks.) If there is more of a gap between the crack edges, or the edges curl/slant upwards (into the combustion chamber), they might warrant testing. These deeper cracks can connect the intake and exhaust ports to each other and to the combustion chamber.

The other useful piece of info to know is if the A/C compressor is inboard of the alternator or outboard.

+1. I tow-dollied an AWD vehicle long distance, and had unbolted the driveshaft from the rear diff. I both wired and taped the driveshaft end to the exhaust. Even though it was well secured, it still felt uneasy the entire way.

As Gloyale wrote, most everything will interchange. There are some minor body differences in the wagons, AFAIK all involving the tailgate window (glued vs. gasket) and the rear fixed windows (slightly different shape of opening and glass). The side mirrors are different between 85/86 and all later. The Loyales were made "down market" (less well appointed) than their GL predecessors so as to encourage Legacy sales. Non-power mirrors (even on turbo Loyales) and cheaper interiors seem to be the rule. Oh, and if the Loyale is a turbo (unlikely), then the front axles will be different. The "cracked" heads on the one engine were probably just the normal superficial between-the-valves cracks that nearly all EA82s get; the non-turbos seem to rarely have truly cracked heads.

Which u-joint is bad? The front one near the tranny, or one on the rear section of the shaft? If one of the rear u-joints, do you have the driveshaft style that the rear section completely unbolts from the front/carrier section? If yes to both, you should be able to remove the rear portion of the shaft (leaving the front portion still in the tranny to seal the rear output) and drive it this way. If it is the Full-Time 4-speed auto (aka 4EAT), you should insert the fuse into the FWD fuse holder in the engine compartment.

Well, I tried draining all, and it went ok until I got to my blood... I started feeling light-headed after about a quart. But seriously folks... Thanks, Gary and Rob. I didn't even think to look for a controller. Most of my wiper experience is pre-intermittent, so wipers were pretty simple. I assume that the controller is XT/XT6 specific, given the Summer/Winter parking? My FSM indicates that the controller is located under the center console near the lighter socket; does this sound correct?

The windshield wiper on my 88 XT has developed a mind of it own over the winter: If Summer/Winter switch is set to Summer, it will continuously sweep the windshield regardless of pod switch selected. If set on Winter, the wiper will frequently do a 3-sweep cycle when I turn on the ignition (more frequently in the morning or after not being started for a while; on hot/warm starts it usually behaves itself). Sometimes, starting the car will interrupt the 3-sweep cycle. Any suggestions where to start?

A 78 Brat would be a gen1, with (IIRC) the EA71 engine with the top mounted starter... a little tough to mate to an EA82 engine without the correct rear portion of the engine... or a tranny swap. Gen1 frame rails are closer set than the gen2s, so the EA82 is too wide to fit without cutting or bashing or possible very careful squeezing.

85 was the first year of the "EA82"-type chassis (technically, not correct as the EA82 is an engine designation rather than a chassis identifier, but good enough for this conversation) in the sedan, coupe, and wagons. The Brat and 2-door "Hatch" continued as EA81s... totally confusing auto parts purchases until the 90 (?) model year. Anyway, assuming that the 85 is the wider chassis with the OHC EA82 engine, and neither are turbos, the axles should interchange. Also helps the confidence level if both have the same tranny.

If it is truly an '89, it should have fuel injection: throttle-body injection, a.k.a Single Point Fuel Injection, a.k.a. SPFI.

BTW, I noticed on your motor-pull thread that your picture showed a left rim on the right side of your car. SHAME, Rob, SHAME!!!

Just to clarify what might be misinterpreted, "terminals" refers to the clamp/connectors on the cables and NOT the posts on the battery itself, and, as Ed typed, the battery needs to be disconnected from the circuit. Your test meter could get damaged by the battery's electrical "pressure" (voltage) while trying to measure the circuit's resistance to electrical "flow" (Ohms, resistance). Electrical "flow" (like your "drain") is measured in amps. Electricals are not terribly complicated if you just think about them in terms of moving a fluid (liquid or gas) through a pipe. The battery acts like a storage tank, holding pressure and volume, releasing its contents until it is drained dry. The battery is "refilled" by an electricity "pump", either your alternator or a battery charger; the alternator is really meant to just "top-up" the "storage tank" (battery), while the charger is meant to refill the "tank". The alternator is not meant to run at full output for other than short periods or it will burn out. In order to fill the "tank", the "pump" has to produce more pressure than is in the tank, so to fully charge a 12v car battery (which is really a 13.2V battery), alts/chargers need to produce around 14.7volts. The wires are the pipes that carry the electric "fluid" to where it is needed. The larger the wire/"pipe", the less resistance to flow it will have. A wire with a "short" (electricity finding a path to ground other than its intended destination) is like a pipe with a leak in it; electricity is leaking out of the wire. An "open" circuit/wire is like a pipe that has been disconnected and capped off. A bad connection can cause excessive resistance to flow, like a blockage or crimp in a pipe. Devices that use the electricity have their own internal resistance caused by the way they use the electricity, sort of like a water nozzle pointed at a water wheel. The switches act as control valves, and the fuses and fusible links act as safety shutoff valves. So, somewheres you have a leak. The tank (battery) could be "leaking"; even new ones can be bad. Your pump (alternator) could be malfunctioning; the pump parts might not be working, or the internal one-way valves (diodes) might be leaking. One of your pipes (wires) could be leaking. One of your electrically powered devices might be ON when you think it is OFF. To test your electricals, first see if your battery is "leaking". Fully charge it, and leave it disconnected. Measure whether it can maintain its charge (voltage). Note: This can be deceptive, as batteries can look good but fail once any real demands (load) is placed upon them; this is why it was recommended that you have an auto parts/repair place do a battery "load test". (BTW, I destroyed 3 alternators because I didn't realize that my battery was bad; the car never failed to start, so I assumed...) Next, put your meter on its resistance setting (ohms, or the Greek "omega" symbol that looks like an upside-down horseshoe). This turns the meter into a mini-"pump", forcing electricity down the wires and seeing how much makes it back to the meter. With everything in the car turned off, put one meter lead on the positive battery cable-clamp and the other on the negative battery cable-clamp. Ideally, the meter should read infinity or several M(ega)Ohms, but your clock and radio have circuits in them that are always powered on; if possible, disconnect the radio and clock (pulling the fuses may not be enough). If the meter indicates something other than infinity or M-Ohms, start pulling fuses until it does. Probably best bet is to either pull them all at once and reconnect them one-and-only-one at a time, or pull them on at a time and leave them disconnected. It is possible that you have multiple problems. You may need to do the same thing to the fusible link(s). Electrics may seem complicated, but it is just simple things replicated many times. I hope that this helps a little, and good luck.

That site shows a common error when looking for Subaru parts: It does NOT properly distinguish between the models. I.E.- it shows the same bushing being used on almost all Subarus, whereas my experience says that the EA81 bushings are not the same as what the EA82s use. (AFAIK, the EA82 chassis' bushings are nonreplaceable.)

That "little hose" is on the front to the engine, not behind the intake manifold and throttle body. If not the turbo coolant line (might want to replace it while you are messing around; I have had several literally shatter on me ), then either the coolant manifold (runs directly behind the intake manifold, bolting to both ends hear the head) or where either the CTS or thermo-vacuum-valve screw into the coolant manifold.

Diagram says flange section with bolt holes, right next to the castellated portion for the diff-lock.

re: Heater tubes. Radiator shops have special internal "pliers" that they use to fix out of round heater tubes and radiator outlets.

Sorry, I am certain that you know better, but the simple things still have to be asked: Did you leave the green ECU connectors connected?

**1990** Legacy FSM says: 82-91 ft-lbs for the 22mm nut on the mainshaft and 174-188 ft-lbs on the 42mm nut on the pinion shaft.

OK, my rereading your posts helped me unfuzz a little. The transfer gear is part of the rotating case. The hollow driven-shaft (tranny output) drives the center-diffs pinion shaft (to which the pinion gears are mounted), the front-diff's pinion's looong quill shaft spines into the rearmost side gear, and the front-most side gear is part of the "case" that is bolted around all the pinion stuff and holds it together. Does this help? FSM will remain open to this diagram. TTFN, Pat BTW, the left side of the picture is the rearmost part of the center-diff.

Gary, I have an 88 XT FSM that includes FT4WD trannies. However, my scanner is driver-challenged, and my mind is a little too fuzzy to catch what info you need. Is that a picture you took (and thus you having the part to look at), or a picture that you found and are trying to analyze?

I like the hillholder, but right now my only running manual-tranny'd car has the cable disconnected. (Lost the flat retaining clip while pulling the engine.) Although I could get a replacement clip, I have noticed that on my car (an XT) the clutch requires less effort and has more "feel" without the cable; plus (though not as yet confirmed) the clutch seems to be lasting much longer than any of my prev soobs with the hillholder cable attached. My 87 T-wagon ate clutches and required much greater effort on the clutch pedal than comparable Japanese vehicles that I have owned (Datsun 510 and Toy 4Runner). I wonder whether the hillholder cable or mechanism was causing me grief. (An 82 wagon had the same overly stiff clutch issue.)

With all due respect to Miles (Hi, Miles! ), you should not tow a Subaru Automatic with a tow-dolly without disconnecting the driveshaft. The "transfer" function of the Subaru autos uses a standard automatic clutchpack, where the driven plates are solidly connected to the tranny's rear output shaft. Whenever the rear output shaft turns, the output plates in the clutchpack turn. Without the engine running to drive the ATF pump, there will be no lubrication and the moving driven plates will scuff against the then-stationary driving plates. You will end up with a bunch of black dust/goo in the ATF which tends to clog the valve body of the tranny (no filters in the system...). I believe the Owners Manual on the pre-88 turbos (pre-4EAT, with the 3AT tranny) says that you can tow-dolly them as-is for up to 70 miles at speeds below 35mph, but I would still prefer to unbolt the driveshaft from the rear diff and just wire-and-tape it out of the way. (No need to totally remove, which can be a PITA!) Also, for the last several years our local U-Haul has denied my using my Aerostar (3500-3800 lbs) to tow any car on a tow-dolly or trailer. They said that their Insurer wouldn't allow it. I have had to drag out a big truck to rent the dang thing. The Aerostar towed pre-Legacys just fine. (Legacys would push the Aerostar around too much, especially going downhill. )

I'm a little confused. There is no center differential in a "standard" (non-RX) D/R tranny.

MUCH easier to pull the engine than the tranny...

AFAIK, the automatic and manual internal components are not interchangeable. So, it depends on what final ratio you want to have in the end (so to speak...). Any manual tranny from a turbo car will have the 3.70 diff, and any non-turbo car can give you the 3.9 tranny and rear diff. BTW, the front seal on the 4EAT is easily replaced (with engine removed) and relatively inexpensive. Plus, the 4EAT can give the turbo wagon some really good cruise economy because of the low-numeric high gear and the lock-up TC.