NorthWet

A possibility is that the axle splines are loose in the hub splines, rubbing as they slide in and out. This can happen if the axle nut is not properly tightened or the dished washer is installed backwards or is not present. What torque value was used to tighten down the axle nut?

No true consumer demand. Period. The average consumer wants a car that they can call a truck. Something that is bigger than a car so that they feel safer. Something "different" from a car so they can say that they are "not like the crowd" and feel special. But, most importantly from the angle of your question, one that has a soft, cushy ride. Compared to IRS/IFS, solid axles suck in day to day driving. Most people commute in their trucks, go to the store in them, take their kids to every conceivable activity under the sun... ...except actually get them dirty on a trail. Popularity of older Toyotas are not measured in millions of units, so it is not really profitable to produce. I see no point in anyone "looking down" on someone else's vehicle just cuz it was made by factory XYZ. I like Toyotas (cars and trucks) for certain reasons, just as I do for Datsuns, Porsches, and Subarus. They are not the same reasons because they are not the same qualities. Subaru didn't build there cars as technical trail kings, but as utility go-nearly-anywhere cars. Toyota started building their trucks as trucks, to be used to do real jobs in the real world. (What the new ones have become should be blamed on the consumer market.) Vehicles I have no problems with. Owners... different story. Stick a fart can and stickers and spinning hubcaps on your Honda/Mitsu/Toy/Nissan/...Subaru and I will not think highly of you. Turn your nose up at people enjoying the same pasttime as you just because they don't have the "right" equipment, I will see no point in talking with you. Some cliques grow in power by believing they are better than anybody else; they eventually die out because pretty soon no one is good enough to join. Other cliques embrace others as brothers, and these will grow larger as the others really do become brothers. My SVX will never eat up a trail as well as a Brat or wagon, let alone your Toyota, but on the highway it is hard to beat. A brat will still be second fiddle to your toyota, but is probably more fun running around town or to work, and will carry far more stuff than the SVX. Your Toyota is probably not as comfy and fun to drive in town as a Brat, let alone an SVX, but is far more trail capable and can still haul a half-ton of stuff. To each their own.

Abso-posi-lutely!!! I practice at-the-limit procedures as often as is safe and possible. Couldn't agree with you more that we should all know what we and our machines can, and can't, do. But we are humans and not machines. We can never practice for the truly unexpected, and, as "normal" humans, the truly unexpected will make us panic and act out in reflex, not reaction. (It is hard to anticipate the sheer terror of rounding a bend on an icy road and see a full grown elk run out in front of you.) Add variables of tiredness or inattentiveness or altered state... At times like these, our mid-brain will override anything that we do with our cerebral cortex. BTW, the ABS on our SVX actually seems to do a good job of staying the heck out of my way. The only time I have felt it jump in (other than while practicing practicing practicing ) was when I was going down hill on sheet ice on our gravel road. Seemed to permit a whole lot of differential-slip before activating.

It is really hard to beat the Factory Service Manuals. eBay just had a very good condition FSM book-set for the 88 for $90 delivered; it might get reposted soon (if not already). I just received my set for my 88 XT from the same vendor and they look nearly new. I also have a CD for my SVX, and although it is nicely organized, it has many mistakes where some pages were not included and others were repeated... sometimes 5 times. Regarding Book vs. CD, I like having paper in front of me rather than a screen, but you can still print the parts you want from the CD. I like having a copy of the pages that I can get greasy, so prints from the CD are more convenient thatn trying to scan and print from the manual.

I think that you may just be seeing the old-age death of your O2 sensor. From my (limited) understanding, they start to get slow in their response as they age. There was also a thread a couple of years ago about O2/EGO sensors where somone (maybe SubaruJunkie???) mentioned that the ECU on some cars/models sent a "health-monitor" voltage to the O2 sensor, and if the O2 sensor read above a certain voltage (2-ish???) then the O2 sensor was not currently functioning. So, put those maybe-incorrect "facts" together and I would guess that the O2 sensor(s) might need replacing soon. Or just don't get worried until the sensors come up to working temp.

A little something to think about before GD and/or others provide some good info: Air tools like oil in the air; paint does not. Make sure your filter/lube setup reflects this, and make sure that you use dedicated hoses (not contaminated with oil) for your painting. Seems obvious, but it wasn't to me when I started.

First and formeost, the OP did not ask us if we liked ABS. Personal antecdotes/rants do not advance the thread. I, too, am interested in adapting ABS hardware to an EA car, but not for the reasons one might think. This particular rant could be classified as rather Luddite. All technological implementations, whether real advances or not, tend to get treated this way. ABS, fuel injection, overhead valves, hydraulic brakes, electrical systems, and electrical ignition have all been discussed as useless, overly complicated, bound to fail and/or just plain dangerous. The car itself was treated as so dangerous that many places required that a person walk in front of the car to warn of its passing. ABS is not inherently bad. Its implementation, particularly in American trucks, may be very poor. I do not believe that there is a modern airliner that does not use it. I am reasonably sure that many race cars use it. The biggest drawback in the past has been the lack of computer processing power to properly monitor and actuate the feedback loop rapidly enough to be more effective than a skilled driver. Moore's Law will eliminate this obstacle. And most drivers are nowheres near being skilled, and almost nobody is "skilled" in a true panic situation (you really need to be a sociopath to never panic). ABS will soon be as ubiquitous as hydraulic brakes (much higher failure rate than Good Ol' Mechanical Brakes!!!) and EFI. My opinion, let's either help advance this thread or not comment upon it.

I'm assuming that the fan belt isn't squealing its guts out and the engine isn't bogging. If squealing/bogging, compressor bearings are probably toast. If happy as a clam but pulley is not turning properly the compressor's clutch is probably shot. There are a few A/C techs on the board who can tell you better, but I think those are the probablilities. (EDIT: typo in first line - "fan belt is squealing" changed to "fan belt isn't squealing"

I believe it is a reference to the unworn edge of the drum where the shoes don't reach, similar to the ridge at the top of a cylinder... the one that needs to be reamed so the pistons can be removed.

If the EA82 disty isn't from a carb'd model it will be a headache: the EFI ones require the EFI ECU.

Which bearing part? The one that I have 10 of, or are we taking seal or similar?

Are you sure that it is blue smoke and not steam? Again, not doubting abilities or power of observation, some questions just need to get asked. Steam will dissipate quickly in still air, smoke thins out only if diluted with more air. Does this occur while idling? Only during cruise? More so taking off from a stop after idling or after compression braking? Becomes thicker the more power you apply? My crystal ball says to bet that it is steam, and that the intake manifold gaskets aren't sealing the intake's water passage properly. (Yes, GG, EA81 and EA82 non/mfpi gaskets are the same/similar.)

The pre-greased-or-not would be good (and important) to know. The SVX developed a reputation for going through rear wheel bearings, and part of that turns out to be that the Genuine Subaru bearings came greased, BUT the grease was just for storage preservation and needed to be completely removed and replaced with proper grease for actual road use. BTW, I had to partially disassemble an SVX front hub (similar to Legacy, et al) after shearing a lug stud. I have the HF 12-ton press, and having the press is not as important as having the proper jigs to support the hub on the press. Because of all of the odd protuberances on the hub, I couldn't just rest the hub on the press plates and do the job. I had to micky-mouse support pieces by sticking random hunks of iron/steel on the press plates, while trying to position the socket that I was using as the pressing piece. If I had bought the 2 Subaru tools (or fabricated something close) the job would have taken 30-60 minutes instead of 2 calendar days. But I also would not have experienced the thrill of having 2 hitch receiver tubes with balls falling onto my shins and feet. Presses are good. Having the right accesories is even better.

To clarify something, if you will... Have you been looking at used engines, rebuilt engines, or JDM crate engines? There are tons of carb'd engines EA82s (and EA81s) in used cars for cheap; this would be the mindset of many of us here. But if you are building it for a client, you are probably looking at a rebuilt or "40K import" engine. I would think that non-turbo/MPFI JDM imports would be readily available (I haven't looked recently, and the JDM import market is very fluid). Basic engines are the same, swap over a carb intake/wiring and dsitributor, and should be good to go.

Don't go too nuts chasing down circuitry (after checking fuses, of course) until you have verified that the pump actually works. Legacy pumps fail, sometimes "softly", seemingly more often than the pumps on the EA's did. I chased a problem on my 90 Leg for 2 calendar weeks before I tried swapping in a known working pump. RE: soft failures - the pump had temporarily quit 3 times on me, mysteriously coming to life before I had chased down the problem. If you don't have a spare pump, just run power and ground directly to the pump; a spare connector would make this nice, but can be done with insulated aligator clips, or female mini-spade connectors, vampire splices, etc. The connector's power and ground are fairly obvious.

Turbos (and the N/A MPFI's) have dual intake ports. All of the EA82s have single/siamesed exhaust ports. If you have a carb manifold and distributor, you should be able to use any of the SPFI (which should be far more common the turbo/MPFI) or carb longblocks. Going from a carb'd to a "turbo" block drops you from 9:1 (9.5:1??? ...OTD :-\ ) down to 7.7:1, so your looking at a 20-30% drop in thermal efficiency, power, and mileage. Speaking of TE... that is also going to mean more heat rejected/lost into the cooling system, so your radiator issue might become more of an... issue. The EJ22 is a MUCH more civilized engine, more power and torque everywheres, nearly bulletproof. Cooling system requirements are fairly proportional to power demand, so unless the ladies are regularly (and for sustained periods of time) goint to use the extra 40-or-so HP of the EJ22, probably not going to have any additional cooling issues. The EJ22 is heavier than the EA82, by my estimate 50-75 pounds.

While looking around for something else, I (re-?)stumbled across RadiatorExpress.com which lists a 2-row all-metal upgrade meant for turbos. THIS may have been where I ordered my last 2-row, but I can't be sure and have no doc that I can find. So.... not an endorsement, but might be a resource.

They are from the Dealer!!! I am not sure if that is the EGR vacuum solenoid or the Canister Purge solenoid. Too lazy at the moment to go outside and look.

All of the EA82's used the same core dimentions. If it is a couple of inches narrower it is probably for an EA81.

Speaking of spark plug wires, I have had more problems with bad running caused by sudden failures of spark plug wires or caps or rotors than anything else. Well, t-belts may top the list, but that is a personal demon. On my turbo cars, a wire might fail so that runs ok at idle, runs like poop from off-idle to 3g, go like gang-busters to 4-5g, than poop out again. Not a hard failure, just different sparkplug demands exceeded the wires ability. Speaking of spark plugs, did you pull the plugs and look at them???

Since you have the plenum off (it is that cast aluminum piece that says TURBO and connects the compressor outlet to the throttle body), what does it look like inside of the turbo's compressor outlet? In the first picture, the rubber connector looks pretty clean and dry. If it is clean down into the aluminum elbow of the outlet then it is probably not the turbo seal that is the source of your oil.

below is the image that he tried to include... just used an "inapropriate" name...

Disregarding the directly-electrical for the moment... Cranking without spark or fuel on the EA82 makes me immediately suspect a timing belt, particularly on the disty side.

A big +1. Front brakes locking up, especially with lots more weight on them to try to stop and probably no more traction from the tires, is fairly normal; but the brakes locking, and inconsistently so, side to side is not all that normal. Again, this could be because of the extra weight, this time just overloading the suspension components. I.e. - "radius rods" aka "tension-compression rods" aka "leading rods" might have marginal bushings for the loads being put on them, and oscillating a little.