NorthWet

Nosing around Nissan sites... seems like there were Clutch-LSD and VLSD for the R200 at least. NISMO is supposed to offer a cLSD for the R200 for about the same price as for the R160. The R200 is a monster, and you may not have room for it (plus I think that its mounting/nose-length is different). NISMO should have similar for the R180.

Well, I got this problem resolved a week ago... I am not happy, since it leaves me with more questions than answers. Bad fuel pump. Should have swapped it out as second thing to do (after checking fuses), but weather discouraged me too much. Even after swapping it out I was unconvinced, because the car I swapped it into started and ran just fine. At least until the second time I tried to start it and it didn't. Regarding my new "questions", I was not getting any voltage to the pump with green connectors connected, even with the relay that I believed to be the pump's bypassed to provide constant power. As soon as I tried to start the car I got voltage to the pump. Maybe I bypassed wrong relay of the pair, or maybe there is something I do not understand. Thanks to all that responded. Momma's happy again. (Well except the moon roof seems to be leaking... :-\ )

Not quite what you are asking but... You have the 4 speed Automatic in your GL? (This is the only Old-Gen FT4WD automatic.) If so, save yourself some pain and frustration and get an EJ 4-speed auto to go with the engine. Basically, same tranny with different "bell housing". If you have the 3-speed auto (PT4WD) I would strongly suggest you rethink your plan.

Yes, that was for the R160 version (I have a Bluebird/510). I would imagine that NISMO has listings for the R180 and R200, also. (BTW, the R180 from a Nissan Fairlady/280Z bolted up to my 510 just fine. A little extra strength in a slightly larger package... and better highway gearing.) Daeron, around here we are more likely to see Purple Haze than Brown.

Manual transmissions do not have electric/electronic control. The AWD used in the New Gen (Legacy/Impreza/Forester) manual trannies use a central differential with a viscous coupling. All the talk about electronic control, Duty "C", and FWD fuse only apply to the automatics.

Did you use OEM or aftermarket intake gaskets? My guess is intake gaskets, new of not. Next on the list is HG. Both of these could leak coolant into the cylinder once the cooling system pressurizes from getting warm. The usual head cracking would be directly into exhaust port and should not give much of a difference in running.

Not too many years ago, they were available from NISMO (Nissan's racing parts division) for $850. $680 for a used sounds pretty steep.

I did all 4 locks on my wife's car. As Manarius wrote, biggest effort is removing and replacing door panel. Once you remove the latch/lock mechanism, things get pretty obvious. BTW, I found that either dental floss or a cotter pin worked really well, both being flatter than regular wire.

Monstaru has talked about a carb'd/disty'd EJ using an Escort distributor driven off of the back of the (US) passenger-side head. Sounds like minimal adaptation needed.

IMHO, the biggest PITA for Old-Genners is the tensioner. Has to be slowly compressed and a retainer pin put in it. Trying to align 3 belt marks simultaneously instead of 2-at-a-time is also fun. Not a hard job to do, just "different" the first time you do it. If not already planned, might want to go ahead and do an oil pump reseal while you are in there.

Might be REAL hard to do it downstream of the turbo. Outflow from the turbo tends to be an oil/air froth that needs to be quickly removed from the turbo... not really something that you can push through a cooler without another pump and a settling/separation container.

The 390cfm I had on my Datsun L20 engine was really nice: Decent low end and mid to top end was great. Gas mileage was great, too, as long as I didn't make the secondaries roar too often. It might have helped that it was mounted on a dual-plane manifold. Engine vibration killed the carb pretty quickly. Shook one of the aux venturis right out of the carb. $300+ down the drain. :-\

If you are having to pass emissions, unless you are prepared to reinstall the original equipment then you probably don't want to go with either the Weber or the SPFI conversion. (My choice would be the SPFI conversion. )

IIRC the "chip" just spoofs the Coolant ThermoSensor (CTS) reistance value, making it seem like the engine is cooler than it is, so ECU richens the mixture. Snake oil.

Oh, yeah... what does the valve seat look like??? (pics?)

That's one of them new-fangled ported exhaust valves isn't it??? Must be good for at least 100hp. Man, that is one nastified valve!

Agreed with checking this to determine diff/final drive vs gearbox proper. The one time I had a transaxle jam up, the bearings supporting the final drive (it was a transverse layout, so no R&P per se) disintegrated.

Congrats!!!

As you (and others) have pointed out, airflow is the key. On paper, the specs for the EA82 (especially the MPFI variant) looks like it should produce some respectable power: Oversquare short-stroke engine, overhead cams, crossflow head, short crankshaft, and EFI. Shouldn't be any real issue pulling 80-100HP/liter out of that design spec. Datsun/Nissan did that over a decade earlier from a longer-stroke design. But the EA82 has the deficit of siamesed ports, which precludes intake/exhaust tuning, and the engine doesn't make use of its high-revving block. I think the problem is the "performance specs" are accidental/incidental, and are a byproduct of evolution of a utilitarian engine design. Boxer engine to be compact in length and height, so short crankshaft. Crossflow head makes perfect sense for packaging a boxer. To fit between the framerails the stroke becomes limited, so as the engine grows it becomes more oversquare. As engine designs advance, the company delves into OHC designs, using its older design as the base. SPFI, MPFI, and forced induction are added for various reasons (emissions/fuel economy/racing homologation). The EA82 was an evolutionary step between the EA81 and the EJ-series, and its design suffered for it. For those who wish to argue over "hotrodding" the EA82, the same argument can be used for any Subaru engine design. Why bother messing with these limited designs when it is easier and cheaper to pull more power out of other engines that are more plentiful and cheaper? "Because we can and we want to" should be a good enough answer. Its a hobby and doesn't need to be rationalized. Peace and Love to all of you Subaru enthusiasts.

OK guys, it is long past time to either grow up or go pick on somebody else. 3 pages of pointless and off-topic posts is more than enough. Nothing is being served by your personal attacks. If you don't agree with Bgd73, politely say your peace and move on; better yet, just don't respond. If what he types is as offbase as what you think then others will not be swayed by it either, so no need to ridicule him "to protect others from his misinformation". What you are doing is bullying and is not OK, so please stop.

Depends on what you mean/orientation. (Not trying to be funny. ) If you are talking about with the carb top off an inverted, then yes, the closer the float is to the carb top the richer it will run (along with other effects). Or, the higher the float/fuel level is, the richer it will run.

If it happens to be the same size as a sparkplug (and, BTW, the same as an O2 sensor), sparkplug chasers are commonly available and cheap (usually double-sided...18mm/14mm???).

I would probably replace the return lines, too, just to be certain. It would be a shame to have the return line burst because it got pinched/plugged/restricted and got subjected to full pump pressure.

To get this back on-topic... ... no practical experience yet, but I can't see why not. Probably need a TCU swap unless the TCU has a pin for FWD/AWD determination (my FSM is packed away at the moment so I can't look at TCU specs). Probably need tranny mount, too.

Too dark/wet/cold for me to go out and look right now, but is it bigger thread than spark plugs? They might have used the same threading.