Subaru Scott

Rock Auto, 45 bucks.

Pull the start wire off the starter spade terminal and run a jumper wire from the battery +, you can even do it right from the battery's connector at the starter. Momentarily touch it to the spade terminal on the starter. Make sure it's out of gear! If it cranks then, and you can do it a few times without detecting any hesitation, you can rule out the starter. Then your problem will be high resistance between the ignition switch and the starter. Most likely the selector switch if it's an automatic. The circuit runs through several connectors which can also add to the resistance.

Replace your oil pump shaft seal and enjoy it as it is while you research other alternatives. If you really want to get more power, swap an EG33 in.

Definitely look very closely into the wobbling front pulley. May just be the rubber is separating the outer and inner hub. May be spider monkeys have been wrenching on it and who knows what is botched. If the crank bolt wasn't tightened properly after a belt job, (increasingly more common) there may be crank damage.

Black and white is relative, my friend...

I've used both, Heli-coils and the solid, "Thread-serts" type. Both work well when installed correctly. Many people have had a bad experience with Heli-coils because the hole was too far gone or they didn't tap it properly. But, if that happens, you still have the option of going with a larger diameter Thread-sert. If you skip the Heli-coil, and screw up the Thread-sert, then you are truly screwed! But I'm not sure why you would recommend buying the higher priced Thread-sert, and then advise getting used studs from a junkyard? They aren't that much at the dealer, and they aren't corroded at all. Yes, you do need stainless. Factory studs are 304 stainless. Try installing non-stainless, and get your Heli-coils ready.

Yeah, even with my horrible math skills, close to 1 cent/mile in that instance is quite a bit more than what 2-3 mpg is saving. Ah yes, the blowby pipes. I still remember the brown stripes down the center of the road.

It sounds to me like your heater core is leaking, and possibly clogged as well. You should bypass it to find out for sure. You must remove the hoses from where they go into the firewall and connect them together with an elbow or some other type of union that won't kink the hoses. The heater core circuit is critical while the engine is warming up, to keep flow past the thermostat so it can open properly.

One thing I can say about driving a wreck, and I've had quite a few, people stay out of your way!

Yeah, the first time I had that same thing happen, it really baffled me. Quite different than the symptoms of a clogged filter on a carbureted engine. I ended up just turning it around backwards, and backflushing it into a bucket. All the goo came out, and it ran fine afterwards!

What you're describing sounds like a clogged fuel filter and/or clogged screen in the fuel tank. When you filled up, it probably stirred up sediment on the bottom of the tank. Was the car sitting for a long time before you bought it? When you shut it off, the pressure of the fuel after the filter will backflush it just enough to let fuel flow again for a short time.

I had dropped an EA82T in a hatch that I drove for many years on regular gas. Even had a brake spring on the wastegate that bumped it up to 12 psi Having timing set appropriately is critical. And, as GD stated, the injectors must be performing well. I did run premium from time to time during "recreation," and advanced the timing a few degrees to take advantage. But during my weekly long highway commute, I would back it off just slightly for maximum mileage on regular gas. City driving required a little less advance even than that. I did burn a piston once, racing my buddy up a long freeway hill, with my family in the car and the "commute" timing setting, but that was just stupid. Yes, they do have a knock sensor, but the ECM will only adjust so much, and not very quickly. So, all that being said, in your case I would run premium, just to be on the safe side. Unless you plan to use it as a commuter, and keep tabs on your timing. But not for a hobby car.

Dave, great job on the exhaust! Nice jig!!! Checked out your machinery link, you sure got some nice toys!! Does the Elec-trak have a mower deck too? I love it! You seem like a guy like me, jack of all trades, master of SOME!

In a pinch, temporarily, you could strap a plastic boat tank in the bed. I almost hate to suggest that because I know mr. safety will probably pop up here and flame me for it. Obviously, you would have to exercise safety and common sense with this setup. My temporary 13 gallon boat tank is going on 5 or 6 years now.

The nice thing about the stock wheel is that it gets closer to the shaft as it advances. So you have more travel off idle for better control.

As long as the O2 sensor is properly installed in the new system, the ECM will adjust fuel mixture appropriately. Even if you have one of those horrible BrrraaaaAAAAAPP mufflers.

The 4wd tanks have a big hump in the bottom to clear the rear differential. Many people have had old tanks cleaned with an acid dip, and any holes soldered up at a radiator shop, if you can still find one of those. Some have also had an epoxy coating applied to the inside.

Try some starting fluid, not too much, you just need a little. Then you can confirm if it's a fuel problem or not. If it is, first place to look is under the passengers seat. The harness from the ECM runs right under there against the floor, where it lays in the moisture that leaks from the windows, the windshield, the cowling... Find the injector power wires, I believe they are yellow with a red tracer. There will be two crimp unions where the two wires from the ECM split into 4 to go to each injector. Those will be rotten.

Many times on cars of that age, the latching tab on the coil pack connector will break. I have a ziptie holding mine together.

It's important to make sure the latch is coming together centered, and that it's not binding on either side. Also, it helps to adjust (on some models) the rubber stops on the front corners of the core support, so they compress just slightly when the hood is fully latched.

Well, unfortunately, that's typical of many dealerships these days. Just like a couple years ago when I went to a dealer to pickup a thermostat for my 83. The kid behind the counter said he couldn't even look one up, because his information didn't go back that far... And I'm thinking to myself, I can look up a part number on my phone, and they probably have one, but the whole scenario just disgusted me so much, I went to Napa. The studs are the same for most any year Subaru. There may be some slight length differences, but every one I've ever seen is 10 x 1.25. But I haven't worked on anything super new. They are stainless though, as well as the nuts. So keep that in mind if you source them from somewhere besides the dealer.

The "click" you're hearing is the Ignition relay and/or any other relay for accessories you have on, losing power. Has nothing to do with the source of your problem. My guess is ignition switch.

This is my current method: Works quite well and uses something I already have. Just have to walk the ladder out one side at a time.

Are you sure he added enough fluid? Checked the level with the engine running? If so, I'd say the previous owner did rev the crap out of it trying to get it to go and burnt the pump. Does it make a whining noise?

Good for you! They really are fun cars, but yeah, even when they were new, people either loved the styling or hated it. Of course, that badge can be worn by many Subarus! Like grossgary said, check out subaruxt.com, there are also several owners on the SVX facebook page. Generally, just googling will get results. Oh, and get some Armorall on the instrument bezel. Whatever you do, don't bump it with anything. It will shatter like sugar glass... don't ask me how I know.