Subaru Scott

DaveT is correct. Been TOO long since I've worked on Ea81's. The coolant passage through the intake will still push coolant through wherever the leak is. Doesn't matter if you plug the lines or not, not like an EA71, which had a separate water crossover. I once replaced head gaskets on one when it was just the carb gasket leaking...

Plug em, plug em!! Best solution for now, till you can find the problem. It's only there to prevent icing in cold temps... you shouldn't have to worry about that too much! But when you have a chance, look at the base gasket and intake where the carb attaches. that is where the water is getting in because of incorrect gasket or corroded manifold. Plug the hoses on both ends though, so you don't end up with a big vacuum leak.

Input shaft shouldn't be an issue anyway, since you need to be using the torque converter that came with the new trans. Do NOT try to use your old TC, because it will be full of metal/friction pieces from the failed trans. Sounds to me like, as Mike104 said, someone pulled the TC off, and hasn't got it seated all the way, leaving the trans looking like it is different.

So, it originally had points?

Drain the oil. If it looks like a milkshake, I'd refill with some cheap oil and listen for bearing noises. Particularly on start-up and no-load rev around 3-4k rpm. The EA81 is fairly hardy, but the main bearings usually get loose first... cause there's only 3 If there's no milkshake oil, you could refill and do the check if you want, but it's probably OK, as long as you didn't notice any noise on your trip. Nice wagon!! I had one, same year, same color. One of the best cars I ever had! I'll never forget the first time I saw the dash lights at night

So, the pump is different and the old one won't swap w/bracket? Don't you still have the old lines on your rack? I would start by finding a good hydraulic shop, that's definitely the way to go. They can take the metal ends, new or used, and crimp new hose on.

So that's actually the best way around that, since you won't actually be recirculating exhaust... ewww.

Oh. So just the drop in manifold pressure is what it's looking for... You'll pardon my confusion...

When the engine is running, you have vacuum assist. The click you hear is just the park interlock, which is normal. If you pump the brakes once or twice, does the pedal get higher?

OK, hold the phone... The metal tube where it plumbs into the head is the SOURCE for the exhaust, to recirculate to the intake manifold. If you cut that off and plumb it to the IAC hose, it is only recirculating air... I'm betting as long as you have the EGR intake manifold wiring harness with the solenoid, the ECM will be happy.

Wait... so, the ECU actually compares data from the MAP and/or O2 to see exhaust gas recirculating? Are you sure it doesn't just look for EGR solenoid continuity and call it a day? Not having a problem, just curious. That's pretty impressive, if so.

Must have just been the early ABS that had bleeders. I just went and looked at my Tribeca, and it has none. Sorry, I don't have much experience with these "new" Subarus. I was always taught to start bleeding the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work back. That's how I've always done it, but I have seen different recommendations.

Could have sucked some air in there with the mity vac. The anti-lock can be difficult to bleed sometimes. There is a bleeder valve on the ABS unit. All the older Subarus without ABS will gravity bleed. If you open one bleeder at a time, give about 6 pumps to flush the gunk out, then let it drip for a few minutes and shut it off. I've done them for years like that. Don't think I've ever seen a master cylinder go bad on a Soob. Best way to check is without the engine running, pump it a couple times to empty the vacuum assist, then apply light light pressure on the pedal. If it slowly leaks down, it's bad.

Uuuummm, if you really have an R180 LSD... I'll TRADE you... even steven for a nice used R160 in whatever ratio you like! You'll be set! Seriously though, I think you are confusing phase 2 with OBD2. Big difference. A late 90's 4EAT will be a direct replacement that will plug and play. Your car won't even know, so how could anyone else? Phase 2 occurred in 99, 98 for Forester.

Well, unless they really revved the crap out of it, trying to get it to go when the fluid got too low, it's probably just fine.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/69918845@N05/35135313905/in/dateposted-public/ Harbor freight has receiver tubes ready to weld up to whatever, like my new Tribeca! https://www.flickr.com/photos/69918845@N05/34749108430/in/dateposted-public/ Why won't the photos from flickr no longer attach here? It's so confusing and such a hassle!

You need to take the distributor cap off and scrub it clean. Of course, if it looks really worn, just replace it. Clean the top of the coil as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-97-LEGACY-OUTBACK-BG9-TRANSMISSION-AUTO-4WD-TZ102Z1ABA-GEARBOX-EJ25-DOHC-2-5L-/381856181300?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

AFAIK, there is no difference between an OBD1 and 2 transmission or the related electronics. I would think they would be much more anxious to crush an SVX with an ECM that has been "fooled" to think it came from the factory with a manual transmission... which none of them had. Besides, OBD1 is like Shultz... it knows nothing...NOTHING!!

+1 on JB weld. Especially if it's not impact damage (are you sure?) and nothing has been bent out of spec. Flush thoroughly with brake clean first.

The 6-speed can be done, and it would be very cool. But pack a lunch, cause it's gonna be a LOT of work! Much easier would be a later model 4eat from an Outback or Forester. Many SVX owners have used these with the 4.44 final drive ratio and have gotten much better performance and durability. There are many low mile JDM 4eats on ebay as well for cheap. Check out the SVX nation facebook page.

And on that note, I should like to point out that the EA71 had a 92 x 62 bore and stroke. 62MM! Talk about a screamer!! I don't think that engine ever realized it's full potential. At the time, everything was just getting bigger, bigger, and it just kind of got washed over. I made my own adapter for a Holley/Weber off a Pinto (same as a modern Weber) for a 1600 back in 86, and that thing ran like a scalded dog! I was really after a big bellhousing 1600 to put a real transmission behind, and do some valvetrain work to get the R's way up there... then family came along... and EJ's...

Sounds like the water pump. Look up and see if it's coming from the weep hole in the bottom of the pump. You're going to get good at lining up timing belts.

What GD said ^^. But if major engine work turns you off, Try to find an early/mid 90's Legacy with a 2.2. Getting rarer these days, but there should still be a few rust free ones up there in PNW, if you can find someone willing to part with one! Those engines are simply bulletproof, and will go 1/2 million miles or more with no major work at all. If you're proud of a Loyale, you'll love a Legacy.